Waves in Geophysical Fluids: Tsunamis, Rogue Waves, Internal Waves and Internal Tides (CISM International Centre for Mechanical Sciences Book 489)

This volume - Waves in Geophysical Fluids - contains extended versions of the lec­ tures that were given at a summerschool in Centre International des Sciences Mecaniques (CISM), Udine, Italy, during the week of 11-15 July 2005. The subjects of the school covered: the formation of the very long tsunamis, the much shorter rogue waves taking place on the sea surface, very large oceanic internal waves and, finally, internal tides and hot spots in the ocean. The subjects were chosen because of their implications to the safety of human activity in and in relation to the ocean environment, and the impact of the processes to the ocean currents and climate. The physical phenomena and how to mathematically and numerically model them were described in the lectures. The giant and destructive tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on the 26th December 2004 urged scientists to communicate to the authorities and public the existing knowledge of tsunami wave modelling, and how the forecasts can be used for warning and evacuation of the people in the near shore region, corresponding to what is practice along the coasts of the Pacific Ocean. The first chapter of this book is precicsely describing the current practice of the forecasting and risk evaluation of tsunamis, and includes also an overview of the geograpical distribution of tsunami sources in the world's oceans. Waves in Geophysical Fluids describes: the forecasting and risk evaluation of tsunamis by tectonic motion, land slides, explosions, run-up, and maps the tsunami sources in the world's oceans; stochastic Monte-Carlo simulations and focusing mechanisms for rogue waves, nonlinear wave models, breather formulas, and the kinematics of the Draupner wave; the full story about the discovery of the very large oceanic internal waves, how the waves are visible from above through the signatures on the sea surface, and how to compute them; observations of energetic internal tides and hot spots from several field campaigns in all parts of the world's oceans, with interpretation of spectra. An essential work for students, scientists and engineers working with the fundamental and applied aspects of ocean waves Front Matter....Pages i-xii Hydrodynamics of Tsunami Waves....Pages 1-48 Weakly nonlinear and stochastic properties of ocean wave fields. Application to an extreme wave event....Pages 49-106 Freak Waves Phenomenon: Physical Mechanisms and Modelling....Pages 107-172 Rapid computations of steep surface waves in three dimensions, and comparisons with experiments....Pages 173-204 Very large internal waves in the ocean — observations and nonlinear models....Pages 205-270 Internal Tides. Global Field of Internal Tides and Mixing Caused by Internal Tides....Pages 271-332