Vintage Luxury Fashion: Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade (Palgrave Advances in Luxury)

Providing a critical insight into the growth of the secondhand luxury and vintage fashion industry, this book offers a compendium of business developments from across the globe, including examples from Europe, the Middle East and Asia. The 'pre-loved or pre-owned' clothing trade has grown as an economic entity, providing a living for over 100,000 people and creating a desirable and essential clothing source in under-developed economies. By debating and deliberating contemporary cases, the authors illustrate how companies can optimise key managerial activities surrounding product branding, location marketing and supply chain buying. This timely collection is an important read for anyone involved in fashion, but particularly those interested in the retail and marketing perspective of the industry, as it explores an emerging and significant retail format -- Provided by the publisher Contents 6 Editors and Contributors 9 List of Figures 19 List of Tables 20 1 Introduction to Vintage Luxury Fashion—Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade 22 1.1 Vintage Luxury Fashion—The Making Off 22 1.2 Introduction 23 1.3 Sustainable Fashion—Secondhand Luxury and Vintage Fashion 24 1.4 The Content of the Global Secondhand Luxury Fashion and (Secondhand) Vintage 25 1.5 Dedications and Acknowledgements 30 References 30 2 Restructuring Secondhand Fashion from the Consumption Perspective 32 2.1 Introduction 32 2.2 Summary of Prior Studies on Secondhand Fashion and Vintage Consumption 34 2.3 Secondhand Luxury and Vintage Fashion Along the Consumption Cycle 39 2.4 Conclusion 43 References 45 3 Access-Based Consumption: A New Business Model for Luxury and Secondhand Fashion Business? 49 3.1 Introduction 49 3.2 Vintage and Luxury Secondhand Fashion 51 3.2.1 Vintage Fashion 51 3.2.2 Luxury Secondhand Fashion 51 3.3 Growth of the Sharing Economy 52 3.4 Access-Based Consumption 53 3.5 New Business Models 54 3.5.1 Swapping 54 3.5.2 Fashion Libraries 56 3.5.3 Renting 57 3.5.4 Sharing 59 3.6 Managerial Implications 60 3.7 Discussion Questions 61 References 61 4 Understanding the Culture of Consuming Pre-owned Luxury 65 4.1 Introduction 65 4.2 Background and Overview 66 4.3 The Driving Forces of Consuming Pre-loved Luxury 68 4.4 Idiosyncrasies of Collecting Pre-loved Luxury 71 4.5 Co-creation at the Interface of Online and Offline Collaboration 73 4.6 Vignette: Practitioner Interpretations 76 4.7 Managerial Implications 77 4.8 Limitations and Further Investigation 79 References 80 5 Pre-loved? Analysing the Dubai Luxe Resale Market 82 5.1 Introduction 82 5.2 International Fashion Marketing 83 5.3 Luxury Fashion Brands and Consumption 86 5.4 Materialism and Conspicuous Consumption 87 5.5 Luxury Dubai—The Market 88 5.6 Luxury Dubai—The Consumers 89 5.7 Dubai Pre-loved Luxe 90 5.8 Summary 95 References 96 6 Narrative and Emotional Accounts of Secondhand Luxury Purchases Along the Customer Journey 98 6.1 Introduction 98 6.2 The Boom of Collaborative and Circular Consumption 99 6.3 Consumer Behaviour Regarding Secondhand Luxury 100 6.4 The Choice Between Physical and Digital Stores 102 6.5 Research Method 103 6.6 Narrative Accounts of the Consumption Experience 104 6.6.1 Pre-purchase: Hedonic Versus Goal-Oriented Shopping Motives 105 6.6.2 Purchase: Story-Focused Versus Product-Focused 106 6.6.3 Post-purchase: Memories and Sharing 108 6.7 Conclusion and Managerial Implications 111 References 113 7 Perceived Brand Image of Luxury Fashion and Vintage Fashion—An Insight into Chinese Millennials’ Attitudes and Motivations 115 7.1 Luxury and Vintage Fashion in China 115 7.2 Brand Image, Motivation and Attitudes of Chinese Consumers 117 7.3 Methodology 119 7.4 Findings and Discussion 120 7.4.1 New Luxury and Authentic Vintage for Own Use 120 7.4.2 New Luxury and Authentic Vintage—Own Purchase Versus Gift Giving 124 7.5 Conclusion 126 References 126 8 Sources of Value for Luxury Secondhand and Vintage Fashion Customers in Poland—From the Perspective of Its Demographic Characteristics 129 8.1 Introduction 129 8.2 The Potential of the Luxury Secondhand and Vintage Fashion Market in Poland 132 8.3 The Concept of Value for Customers Shopping in Luxury Secondhand and Vintage Clothing Stores 134 8.4 Research Methodology 137 8.5 Research Results 140 8.6 Theoretical Contribution and Managerial Implications 145 References 148 9 Secondhand Index and the Spirit of Green Vintage Fashion 151 9.1 Introduction 151 9.2 Urban Retail Space 154 9.3 Wanting to be a Sustainable Consumer: Green Aspirations 156 9.4 Guiding the Customer: Vintage-Maps and Fair-Maps 159 9.5 Identifying Sustainable Ranges 161 9.6 Sustainable City Centres and the Spirit of Green Vintage Fashion 164 References 166 10 Dedicated Follower of Fashion 171 10.1 Introduction 171 10.2 Vintage Luxury Fashion Through Time 173 10.3 Contemporary Culture and Vintage Fashion 173 10.4 Celebrity Culture and Vintage Fashion 175 10.5 Affleck’s Palace, Manchester 177 10.6 Camden Markets, London 178 10.7 Secondhand Vintage Fashion as a Platform to Rejuvenate and Enhance Locations 179 10.8 Conclusion 181 References 182 11 Do Fashion Blogs Influence Vintage Fashion Consumption? An Analysis from the Perspective of the Chinese Market 185 11.1 Introduction 185 11.2 Literature Review 186 11.2.1 Vintage Consumption 186 11.2.2 Fashion Blogs 188 11.2.3 Consumer Awareness and Purchase Intention 190 11.2.4 Conceptual Framework and Hypotheses Development 192 11.3 Methodology 193 11.4 Results 194 11.4.1 Reliability and Validity 194 11.4.2 Hypotheses Testing 194 11.5 Discussion, Implications and Conclusions 195 References 198 12 Vintage Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective 202 12.1 Introduction 202 12.2 Vintage Trends 203 12.3 Defining Vintage 204 12.4 Popular Vintage Clothing 205 12.5 The Vintage Consumer 206 12.6 Research Method 207 12.7 Research Findings and Discussion 208 12.7.1 Delineation/Classification of Vintage 209 12.7.2 Cultural Underpinning 211 12.7.3 Marketplace 213 12.7.4 Transfer/Sharing Within a Familial Context 214 12.7.5 Contribution Towards Self-Identity 216 12.8 Conclusion 217 References 218 13 Commercialisation and the Authenticity of Vintage Fashion 221 13.1 Introduction 221 13.2 The Concept of Vintage 224 13.3 Vintage Fashion Sourcing and Supply 227 13.4 Conclusion 231 References 233 Index 235 Front Matter ....Pages i-xxii Introduction to Vintage Luxury Fashion—Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade (Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger, Marta Blazquez Cano)....Pages 1-10 Restructuring Secondhand Fashion from the Consumption Perspective (Linda Lisa Maria Turunen, Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen, Jenniina Sihvonen)....Pages 11-27 Access-Based Consumption: A New Business Model for Luxury and Secondhand Fashion Business? (Amira Battle, Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger)....Pages 29-44 Understanding the Culture of Consuming Pre-owned Luxury (Carly Fox)....Pages 45-61 Pre-loved? Analysing the Dubai Luxe Resale Market (Liz Barnes, Gaynor Lea-Greenwood)....Pages 63-78 Narrative and Emotional Accounts of Secondhand Luxury Purchases Along the Customer Journey (Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Edwige Vigreux)....Pages 79-95 Perceived Brand Image of Luxury Fashion and Vintage Fashion—An Insight into Chinese Millennials’ Attitudes and Motivations (Claudia E. Henninger, Zejian Tong, Delia Vazquez)....Pages 97-110 Sources of Value for Luxury Secondhand and Vintage Fashion Customers in Poland—From the Perspective of Its Demographic Characteristics (Edyta Rudawska, Magdalena Grębosz-Krawczyk, Daniella Ryding)....Pages 111-132 Secondhand Index and the Spirit of Green Vintage Fashion (Cecilia Fredriksson, Devrim Umut Aslan)....Pages 133-152 Dedicated Follower of Fashion (Neil Robinson, Crispin Dale)....Pages 153-166 Do Fashion Blogs Influence Vintage Fashion Consumption? An Analysis from the Perspective of the Chinese Market (Marta Blazquez Cano, Stephen Doyle, Yiyuan Zhang)....Pages 167-183 Vintage Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective (Lindsey Carey, Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Julie McColl, Aileen Stewart, Yuet Chak Yuki Yuen)....Pages 185-203 Commercialisation and the Authenticity of Vintage Fashion (Anthony Kent, Suzanne Winfield, Charlotte Shi)....Pages 205-218 Back Matter ....Pages 219-222