Treasures from the Sea: Sea Silk & Shellfish Purple Dye in Antiquity (Ancient Textiles)

This Interdisciplinary Volume Presents A Collection Of 17 Papers Which Treat The Current State Of Research On Two Marine Resources Used In Ancient Textile Manufacture, Shellfish Purple Dye And Sea Silk. Purple Dye Is Extracted From The Glands Of The Mollusks Hexaplex Trunculus, Bolinus Brandaris And Stramonita Haemastoma Which Through A Chemical Reaction Of Photosynthesis Produces Hues Ranging From Dark Red To Bluish Purple Color. The Importance Of Purple Dye Since Ancient Times As A Status Symbol, A Sign Of Royal And Religious Power Is Well Documented. Papers Include The Study Of Epigraphical And Historical Sources, Practical Experiments As Well As, Highlighting The Presence Of Purple Dye In The Mediterranean Area In Select Archaeological Data. Less Well Known Is Sea Silk, A Precious Fiber Derived From The Tufts Of The Pen Shell, Pinna Nobilis, With Which The Mollusk Anchors Itself To The Seabed. These Tufts Once Cleaned And Bleached Take The Aspect Of Golden Thread. Only A Handful Of Artisans On Sardinia Still Have The Knowledge Of How To Work These Fibers From The Pen Shell, A Species Protected By The Eu Habitats Directive, The Knowledge Having Been Transmitted Orally For Generations. Papers Include Linguistic Issues Pertaining To Terminology, Archaeological Investigation, The Study Of The Physical And Chemical Properties Of Sea Silk And The Step-by-step Practical Working Of Sea Silk Fibers. The Comprehensive Multifaceted Overview Makes This Book A Valuable Resource For Anyone Interested In Ancient Textiles, Dyes And Textile Technology--publisher Description. Introduction / By Hedvig Landenius Enegren And Francesco Meo -- Byssus And Sea Silk : A Linguistic Problem With Consequences / Felicitas Maeder -- Morphology, Properties And Microscopical Identification Of Sea Silk / Anne Sicken -- Tangled Threads : Byssus And Sea Silk In The Bronze Age : An Interdisciplinary Approach / Elena Soriga And Alfredo Carannante -- Finds Of Pinna Nobilis, Hexaplex Trunculus And Evidence For Specialised Textile Production In Aetolian Chalkis / Sanne Houby-nielsen -- Taras And Sea Silk / Francesco Meo -- Dal Bisso Grezzo Al Filato Di Bisso = From Raw Sea Silk To Byssus Thread / Assuntina Pes And Giuseppina Pes -- Dyeing Wool And Sea Silk With Purple Pigment From Hexaplex Trunculus / Inge Boesken Kanold -- Recent Advances In The Understanding Of The Chemistry Of Tyrian Purple Production From Mediterranean Molluscs / Chris Cooksey -- Mari(ne) Purple : Western Textile Technology In Middle Bronze Age Syria / Elena Soriga -- The Spread Of Purple Dyeing In The Eastern Mediterranean : A Transfer Of Technological Knowledge? / Christoph Kremer -- Sacred Colours : Purple Textiles In Greek Sanctuaries In The Second Half Of The 1st Millennium Bc / Cecilie Brøns -- A Lydian Chiton With A Purple Fringe... : The Gift Of The Garment To The Hera Of Samos And Hera Of Sele / Bianca Ferrara -- Purple For The Masses? : Shellfish Purple-dyed Textiles From The Quarry Workers' Cemetery At Strozzacapponi (perugia/corciano), Italy / Margarita Gleba, Ina Vanden Berghe, Luana Cenciaioli -- Historical Outline And Chromatic Properties Of Purpura Rubra Tarentina And Its Potential Identification With Purple Dye Extracted From Bolinus Brandaris / Fabienne Meiers -- Purple Wars : Fishing Rights And Political Conflicts Concerning The Production Of Marine Dyes In Hellenistic Greece / Carmen Alfaro Giner And Francisco Javier Fernández Nieto -- Purpurarii In The Western Mediterranean / Benedict J. Lowe. Edited By Hedvig Landenius Enegran And Francesco Meo. Includes Bibliographical References. This interdisciplinary volume presents a collection of 17 papers which treat the current state of research on two marine resources used in ancient textile manufacture, shellfish purple dye and sea silk. Purple dye is extracted from the glands of the mollusks Hexaplex trunculus, Bolinus Brandaris and Stramonita Haemastoma which through a chemical reaction of photosynthesis produces hues ranging from dark red to bluish purple color. The importance of purple dye since ancient times as a status symbol, a sign of royal and religious power is well documented. Papers include the study of epigraphical and historical sources, practical experiments as well as, highlighting the presence of purple dye in the Mediterranean area in select archaeological data. Less well known is sea silk, a precious fiber derived from the tufts of the pen shell, Pinna nobilis, with which the mollusk anchors itself to the seabed. These tufts once cleaned and bleached take the aspect of golden thread. Only a handful of artisans on Sardinia still have the knowledge of how to work these fibers from the pen shell, a species protected by the EU Habitats Directive, the knowledge having been transmitted orally for generations. Papers include linguistic issues pertaining to terminology, archaeological investigation, the study of the physical and chemical properties of sea silk and the step-by-step practical working of sea silk fibers. The comprehensive multifaceted overview makes this book a valuable resource for anyone interested in ancient textiles, dyes and textile technology. Table of Contents CONTENTS Introduction by Hedvig Landenius Enegren and Francesco Meo 1. Byssus and Sea A Linguistic Problem With Consequences by Felicitas Maeder 2. Morphology, Properties and Microscopical Identification of Sea Silk by Anne Sicken 3. Tangled Threads. Byssus and Sea Silk in the Bronze an Interdisciplinary Approach by Elena Soriga and Alfredo Carannante 4. Finds of Pinna Nobilis, Hexaplex Trunculus and Evidence For a Specialized Textile Production in Aetolian Chalkis by Sanne Houby-Nielsen 5. Taras and Sea Silk by Francesco Meo 6. Dal bisso grezzo al filato di bisso / From Raw Sea Silk to Byssus Thread by Assuntina Pes and Giuseppina Pes 7. Dyeing Wool And Sea Silk With Purple Pigment From Hexaplex Trunculus by Inge Boesken Kanold 8. Recent Advances in the Understanding of the Chemistry of Tyrian Purple Production From Mediterranean Molluscs by Chris Cooksey 9. Mari(ne) Western Textile Technology in Middle Bronze Age Syria by Elena Soriga 10. The Spread of Purple Dyeing in the Eastern Mediterranean - A Transfer of Technological Knowledge? by Christoph Kremer 11. Sacred Purple Textiles in Greek Sanctuaries in the Second Half of the 1st Millennium BC by Cecilie Brns 12. A Lydian chiton with a purple fringe...: The Gift of the Garment to the Hera of Samos and Hera of Sele by Bianca Ferrara 13. Purple For the Masses? Shellfish Purple Dyed Textiles From the Quarry Workers Cemetery at Strozzacapponi (Perugia/Corciano), Italy by Margarita Gleba, Ina Vanden Berghe and Luana Cenciaioli 14. Historical Outline and Chromatic Properties of Purpura Rubra Tarentina and Its Potential Identification With Purple Dye Extracted From Bolinus Brandaris by Fabienne Meiers 15. "Purple Wars": Fishing Rights and Political Conflicts Concerning the Production of Marine Dyes in Hellenistic Greece by Carmen Alfaro Giner and Francisco Javier Fernndez Nieto 16. Purpurarii in the Western Mediterranean by Benedict J. Lowe 17. Shell Purple-dye Production in the Mediterranean Basin by David S. Reese Scope and content: "This interdisciplinary volume presents a collection of 17 papers which treat the current state of research on two marine resources used in ancient textile manufacture, shellfish purple dye and sea silk. Purple dye is extracted from the glands of the mollusks Hexaplex trunculus, Bolinus Brandaris and Stramonita Haemastoma which through a chemical reaction of photosynthesis produces hues ranging from dark red to bluish purple color. The importance of purple dye since ancient times as a status symbol, a sign of royal and religious power is well documented. Papers include the study of epigraphical and historical sources, practical experiments as well as, highlighting the presence of purple dye in the Mediterranean area in select archaeological data. Less well known is sea silk, a precious fiber derived from the tufts of the pen shell, Pinna nobilis, with which the mollusk anchors itself to the seabed. These tufts once cleaned and bleached take the aspect of golden thread. Only a handful of artisans on Sardinia still have the knowledge of how to work these fibers from the pen shell, a species protected by the EU Habitats Directive, the knowledge having been transmitted orally for generations. Papers include linguistic issues pertaining to terminology, archaeological investigation, the study of the physical and chemical properties of sea silk and the step-by-step practical working of sea silk fibers. The comprehensive multifaceted overview makes this book a valuable resource for anyone interested in ancient textiles, dyes and textile technology"--Publisher description Purple dye is extracted from the glands of the molluscs Hexaplex trunculus, Bolinus Brandaris and Stramonita Haemastoma which, through a chemical reaction of photosynthesis, produces hues ranging from dark red to bluish purple colour. The importance of purple dye since ancient times as a status symbol, a sign of royal and religious power is well documented. Less well known is sea silk, a precious fibre derived from the tufts of the pen shell, Pinna nobilis, a UNESCO protected species, with which the mollusc anchors itself to the seabed. These tufts, once cleaned and bleached, take the aspect of golden thread. Only a handful of artisans on Sardinia still have the knowledge of how to work these fibres, the knowledge having been transmitted orally for generations. In this new review of latest research, 17 papers concentrate on two marine resources used in ancient textile manufacture: shellfish purple dye and sea silk.0Papers include the study of epigraphical and historical sources, practical experiments, as well as, highlighting the presence of purple dye in the Mediterranean area in the archaeological data and in new research contexts; linguistic issues pertaining to terminology, archaeological investigation, the study of the physical and chemical properties of sea silk and the step-by-step practical working of sea silk fibres. The comprehensive multifaceted overview makes this collection a valuable resource for anyone interested in ancient textiles, dyes and textile technology Purple dye is extracted from the glands of the molluscs Hexaplex trunculus, Bolinus Brandaris and Stramonita Haemastoma which, through a chemical reaction of photosynthesis, produces hues ranging from dark red to bluish purple color. The importance of purple dye since ancient times as a status symbol, a sign of royal and religious power is well documented. Less well known is sea silk, a precious fiber derived from the tufts of the pen shell, Pinna nobilis, a UNESCO protected species, with which the mollusk anchors itself to the seabed. These tufts, once cleaned and bleached, take the aspect of golden thread. Only a handful of artisans on Sardinia still have the knowledge of how to work these fibers, the knowledge having been transmitted orally for generations In this new review of latest research, 17 papers concentrate on two marine resources used in ancient textile manufacture: shellfish purple dye and sea silk. Papers include the study of epigraphical and historical sources, practical experiments, as well as, highlighting the presence of purple dye in the Mediterranean area in the archaeological data and in new research contexts; linguistic issues pertaining to terminology, archaeological investigation, the study of the physical and chemical properties of sea silk and the step-by-step practical working of sea silk fibers.The comprehensive multifaceted overview makes this collection a valuable resource for anyone interested in ancient textiles, dyes and textile technology.