Travels and Researches among the Lakes and Mountains of Eastern and Central Africa

INTEODUCTOEY CHAPTEE ON AFEIOA AND THE SLAVE -TEADE . By Mk . Holmwood, H .M . Assistant Political Agent , Zanzibar . Effects of complicity of civilised nations in Slave - trade —-England , the first to acknowledge its immorality and to interfere for its suppression— Abolished on the West Coast , the Trade con¬ tinues on the East Coast to supply slaves for Mohammedans — Slave -dealer's and their confederates — Transport of slaves from the interior — Atrocities connected with traffic — East African Slave -trade described by Dr . Livingstone—Public sympathy aroused in England — Owing to Treaties with Zanzibar , measures for suppression difficult to carry out —Dr . Kirk appointed England ' s representative at Zanzibar — Prepares the way for more resolute anti - slavery policy— Sir Bartle Frere sent out to negotiate new Treaty with Sultan — Temporary failure of nego¬ tiations — Treaty concluded making transport of slaves by sea illegal — Slave - dealers establish a land route—New system for supplying clove -plantations with labour—Enormous import of slaves into Pemba Island ( north of Zanzibar )— Difficulty of dealing with this traffic — Dr . Kirk induces Sultan to declare transport by land and fitting out of slave caravans illegal —In¬ subordination of Arab Governors and discontent of Sultan 's subjects — Sultan 's authority supported — Slave -trade reduced to a smuggling traffic , but not suppressed — Scheme , proposed by Political Agent for suppressing Slave - trade at its source in the interior , under consideration of British Government—Pre¬ sent state of interior of Africa —England in the South— Egypt in the North— The West — The East —Facilities afforded by the Zanzibar dominions on that coast for opening up Africa— Jurisdiction and influence of Sultan — His character and ad¬ ministrative abilities — Sale of alcoholic liquors prohibited— xiv Contents . England the recognised enemy of Slave -trade and friend of the slave —Physical features and climate of East Africa — The maritime region — The Ghauts — The upland plains — The great Lake district — Productions — Character of natives of interior -— Coast population—Difficulty of defining country likely to be first brought under influence of civilisation— Mission Stations ■— Commencement of road to Lake Nyassa— The opening up of Africa to trade and civilisation—Peeling in favour of such a movement gaining ground — Might be carried out under the form of a chartered commercial corporation — Effects of over¬ trading on British prosperity — Causes which have enhanced the ill - effects — The opening up of Africa might be carried out as a national undertaking — Would provide a new market for our manufactures and employment for our surplus middle - class population — The area now open to our influence may be generally described as nearly equal to that of British India— Its sparse population not an unmixed evil if properly dealt with — Assistance might be afforded by the Sultan of Zanzibar — Conclusion . . . . . . .. . . 1 CHAPTER I . Visit to Mozambique — Description of the bay , town , and inhabit¬ ants —View of Zanzibar— Its exports , and the hurricane — The streets and sights of Zanzibar — The camel mill — Sir Bartle Frere and the Seyyid — Cameron at Bagamoyo — A miniature hurricane — The slave market — Presentation to the Seyyid —■ Dress and architecture of the Zanzibarites— The suburbs and ' " mashamba "—A young African elephants— A case of " natural selection " — Official visit of the Seyyid — His Proclamation— His complicity in the slave -trade— Signature of the treaty — The word " bagham "—News of Cameron — Mr . Moffatt ' s death — Chase of dhow by H .M .S . ' Magpie '—Encounter with slavers , and capture of dhow by cutter of ' Daphne — A ride across the island of Zanzibar — Dunga and Chuaka — Eamathan at Zanzibar — Festival of Bairam— The Arab Calendar —News of Dr . Livingstone — Proposed visit to Kilwa and the Eufiji . . 25 CHAPTER II . From Zanzibar to Dar - es -Salam — Manumission of Banyans ' slaves —Description of the harbour and deserted town—Eeported Contents . xv threats of the slavers — The main slave -route nevertheless chosen —Foonze — Gum - copal diggings —Encounter with slavers at the Pafuni ford — Horrible condition of the slaves — Another slave caravan—The Arabs show fight —A critical moment—Kisiju— Great numbers of slaves marched northwards from Kilwa — Kitmangao—More slave gangs — Kikunia—Prostration from coast -fever— A gang of 1100 slaves—Visit to Chole Island— Thence to Samanga , and the Kufiji— A slave -gang surprised at the ferry— Mpenbeno —Description of Eufiji scenery and natives —Keturn to Samanga and journey to Kilwa —-The coast man¬ grove -swamps —Serious illness — The ' Daphne ' at Kilwa— Ke¬ turn by dhow via Konduchi and Bagamoyo— Practical results of the expedition . . . . . . . . 72 CHAPTEE III . News from the interior—Arrival of Churuah , Dr . Livingstone ' s servant — Lieutenant Murphy arrives with the body— Attack by Arab slavers on Mr . Hartley — Visit to Natal in charge of freed slaves , captured by H .M .S . ' Daphne '— Inspection of slaves landed at Natal by H .M .S . ' Briton '—Depositions of slaves— Serious attack , of dysentery—Appointed " Protector of Immi¬ grants " — Capture by H .MS . ' Thetis '— Keturn to Zanzibar — Mr . Heale ' s murder — Death of Mr . West — End of 1874— To Mozambique — Co -operation of H .M .S . ' Thetis ' in Portuguese expedition to the Kivolane — Keturn to Zanzibar — The revolt and reduction of Mombasa — Description of Mombasa — Startling statistics of the slave -trade— Search for slave dhows in the Kivolane Delta — Lieutenant Ogle ' s log—Appointed Consul at Mozambique, April 1875 — Passing visit to Johanna — Descrip¬ tion of the island — Dr . Wilson ' s and Mr . Sunley ' s estates — The Sultan and his Court—Arrival at Mozambique — Sheikh Abder - haman —Expedition to the Moma river —Capture by the ' Thetis ' — Horrible condition of captured slaves —News of " Living - stonia " party — Ascent of Mount Mesa — Lieutenant Gray 's death . . . . . 107 CHAPTEE IV . A deadly season —Deatlis of Senhor Soares and Mr . Dixon — Sus¬ picions of poison — The causes of Mozambique fever — Is it due to the coral excavations ?— Description of the quarries — Pro¬ phylactics against fever — Visit to Madagascar — Majunga — The xvi Contents . guard of honour and the " shlute "— The interview with the " Governor "— Dress of the Hovas — The official dinner — Descrip¬ tion of Majunga —Escape of a slave dhow— The Portuguese and French in Madagascar —Eeturn to Mozambique — Portugal and her " Libertos ," 1875 — Comoro— Cape St . Andrew — The system of " free emigration " — The " freres Eosier "— Capture and destruction of slave dhow from Maravoni river — Deposi¬ tions of the slavers — The " musimi "•— Eeturn to Mozambique —Proclamations of the Seyyid concerning conveyance of slaves by land — Visit to Goa island — Chicoma — Expedition to Ibo — The Soriza peaks — The Lurio — The chief Mazeze— Hippo¬ potamus killed — Bay of " Pomba "—Lake Kakavelo — Four days among the hippos .— A " bag " of seven — The dying charge of the " big bull " — Overland journey to Ibo , and return to Mozambique . . . . . . . . . 149 CHAPTEE V . Visit to the Tugulu flats — The Governor - General of Mozambique and the Madagascar slave - trade —Visit to Mayinteram — Seizure of dhow by the Seyyid — Expedition to the Makua country — Maruha , chief of Tugulu — Namoti and the river Nkomburi — Loguno Peak , and Mwendazi — The Sultan Mpata Mno and his son Namaruha — An awkward political situation— An African abdication— Across the Mkubwa and Chahunde to the river Lurio — Death of the " woman - watcher " crocodile — Geology of the region — The port of Umkufi —Xanga Mrebwi and Xanga Mororo— Boat voyage to Kissanga— Arrival of Mr . Manning—Ibo—From Ibo to Kirimakoma , Namadai , and Dhubbai — Biribesi Lake — Its crocodiles and hippopotami— Sport on the Lake — A disappointing fiasco among the behe¬ moths —Eley ' s brass cartridges — Once more at Kakavelo— A bag of three hippopotami — A fight for the spoil — Four wounded hippos , found dead — Eeturn to Ibo . . . . . 1SG Contents . xvii PART II . CHAPTEE I . PAGE First six months of 1877 occupied in visit to Zanzibar and in preparing for journey to Lake Nyassa —From Mozambique to Quillimaine — Start up the river for Nyassa— Meet¬ ing with Dr . Macklin of the " Blantyre " Mission — Miram - boni and Mugurumbe—" Machilla " journey to Mazaro— The Zambezi —Senhor Bamao ' s opium fields — Voyage to Shupanga — Mrs . Livingstone ' s grave — Sport at Shupanga — The Landeens — Wild cattle on Chimara island— The river Shire — Swimming cattle across at Ferrao ' s—Mount Morumbala and the hot springs — Mount Pinda —The " Nyanja Pangono ," or Morum¬ bala marsh — Hippopotamus hunters—Eland , rhinoceros and waterbuck near Tinama — Bishop Mackenzie 's grave at Maro — The Makalolo— Chipitula ' s village —Exciting encounter with elephants : three slain—Makalolo chiefs , Mazoe and Maziko— Arrival at Eamakukan ' s , below the cataracts . . . 240 CHAPTEE II . At Eamakukan ' s— To Matiti , at the foot of the cataracts— The voy¬ age of the ' Herga '—Death of a crocodile — Start overland for the upper river— Difficulties with carriers — Mukuru Madsi—Zebra , waterbuck , and koodoo —A hippopotamus on the path —Le - sungwe river— The cataracts — A wounded hippopotamus— Arrival at Pimbi —Night encounter with elephants —Lake Pana - lombe—Visit to Mponda —His argument about slaves and ivory —Lake Nyassa —Bound Cape Maclear to Livingstonia — Descrip¬ tion of the station—Its site , and the " tsetse " — Fish and otters of the Nyassa —Excursion to the Sangazi , and Marenga ' s deserted village — Chase after an elephant—Malabwe —Another elephant hunt — Sport at Malabwe — A great bag : hippopotamus , koodoo , pallah , & c .— The lion 's cave — Beturn to the station — Visit to Makanjila — An audacious crocodile — Geology of Cape Maclear . 2 (iG xviii Contents . CHAPTEK III . PAGE Start from Livingstonia —Mpemba ' s— Marere island—" Kungu ," or edible midge —Lake Chia — Violent storm at night — The ' Ilala ' in danger —Mkota - kota , and the Jumbe — Discovery of Lake Chiningala —Across Nyassa to Losewa — Description of its harbour and inhabitants — Northwards to Dikomo —Explora¬ tions and observations on the island — The ' Ilala ' aground—■ Visit to Kitesi — His presents , and request for " medicine "— The Wanyassa —Past Chisamulu to the West Coast— Kangoma and Mankambira— Mount Chombe and Kitimbu Bay— Ele¬ phant hunting in the Karoro valley—Escape of a wounded elephant — A black rhinoceros shot — A great day among the elephants — Exciting chase and a " bag " of four — Charged by an elephant—Bursting of an elephant gun — Wakomanga at the scene of slaughter — Beports about the north end of Nyassa , and the Wachungu—Past Pakambwera to Marungi — Bitten by a snake — Kambwe lagoon . . . . . . 291 CHAPTEK IY . The north end of the Nyassa ., and the great range of Konde —An immense herd of elephants —Bombashi inlet , and the village of Malisaka —Interview with " Makula "— Description of the Wachungu —Mbungu impersonates Makula — The start for the unknown North — Carriers " on the run " — Cross the Jumbaka river — Inyamare ' s— The lakelet Iramba — Desertion of carriers — Jumaipopo to Kasakero ' s— The valley of the Jumbaka , Lake Kisewa , and the Josuma waterfall — Bands of robber tribes— At Mamboneki among the Wakukwe— The name " Ubena "— Magnificent prospect over the Buingero valley— A struggle with African fever —-The height of the Konde range — An in¬ fected village — " At war " — Mazote ' s Pass —-Description of scenery , people , and cultivation of Konde — The raids of the Makangwala — The chief Mazote — A moonlight scene—Des¬ perate push for Merere ' s , and separation of the party — The Pass over the great range — Plateau of Uwanje — A halt com¬ manded — " Enemy ahead "— Scanty fare — An impostor— A sacred grove — Message from Merere — A charm against rain — Lake Hikwa — The Banga river and Mtengere ' s— Boute through Contents . xix Usafa to Ugogo — To the Euaha gorge — Fugitives from the war— Panorama of Usango — The Euaha and its lake — The Ma - chinga and Merere ' s " boma "— A burning village— The enemy surprise us at breakfast—Elaborate salutations of the Wasango — The night march — Arrival at the " boma " and reception by- Arabs ...... . . . 318 CHAPTEE V . In Merere ' s " boma " — Audacity of the enemy — A sortie — Eeports of our rear party — An assault on the " boma " — The dangers of fishing — A council of war —Night in the stockade — A ruse and a reconnoitre— The enemy ' s camp ablaze— liaising of the siege —"We visit the trenches—Horrible scene of butchery—Pursuit of the invaders — A dastardly murder — Sport in Usango : pallah , zebra , rhinoceros —Merere ' s band of drummers — Wild boars and buffaloes —-Immense herds of game — A party from Usafa — A chase after elands — The story of Salim —Merere and the slave -trade — Eeturn of fugitives — Arrival of our party from Mazote ' s—Merere ' s address to his warriors— Illness from foul smells , bad food , and polluted water — The dance of the Ama¬ zons— A fire in camp —The Wabena —Narrow escape from a charging buffalo— A second chase after the elands — The last evening in the " boma 345 CHAPTEE VI . Preparations for a start —Fearful smells and sights in the " boma " — The plain of Usango and the Euaha tributaries —Merere ' s burnt town — Its great size —Mtengura ' s Gap — Mkojwe and • Mbarafu rivers— Meeting with a Baluchi—News from Europe — Sport among hartebeest and buffaloes — Igunda — The Niam - Niam country and cattle stations —Wild fruit — The Wa -Euga - Euga robbers — Story of the Niam -Niams and Mgongora — The Niam -Niams of Dr . Schweinfurth— The Machinga — Famine in the camp— Among the Kiombo hills — Giraffe — Pambagora— " Hapana marenga " — Eeach the Mzombe — Spoils of war — Night scene on the sands of the Mzombe— A " mamba "— An alarm of Wa -Euga -Euga— Scanty fare — The lower Mzombe A hard push for the " Shambas " — First sight of Wawambara — A dinner off wild figs — Arrival at Mgongora ' s , or Kagowa ' s— XX Contents . Interview with the chief— Effects of food after starvation— Carriers engaged for Usekhe — Complaints of great weakness— Eetribution of the Makangwala on the Machinga — Abrupt ter¬ mination of Consul Elton ' s Journal ..... 365 CHAPTER VII . By H . B . Cotteeill . Start from Kagowa ' s— Makasumbi river— The well in the rock — First serious symptoms of illness — The river Kasigo , and ar¬ rival at S . Usekhe —Terrible suddenness of the fatal attack — Death of Consul Elton — The burial — We procure supplies from the Arabs—Eeach N . Usekhe — Kanyenye — The scorpions of Ugogo— Christmas Day , and a Homeric feast— We join com¬ pany with Suleiman bin Selim —Waniamwesi carriers — The " Ziwa " — Blackmail— The planet Venus —A prowling leopard — Mwara ' s— An impudent prime minister—A case of slave selling — Night alarm of brigands— The pass of Chunyo—Famine —Mpwapwa and the white men ' s house—News of war be¬ tween England and Kussia —Lake Ugombo — Kirasa —Mr . Thompson and M . Broyon— The " tsetse " — Arrival at Sef Suleiman ' s— Another case of malarious sunstroke — Terrible suspense— Eecovery , and decision to push forward— The Ma - kata swamp — The Lungeringeri — Simbamwenye , the " Lion - lord " — Mount Mgombazi and the Waruguru — A Night attack by " Maviti " ants — " The sea ! the sea !"— The Kingani — Arrival at Bagomoyo — Hospitable reception on H .M .S . ' Vulture '— Zanzibar ........... 386 Natural History Appendix on the Kungu Fly : Communicated by the Kev . A . E . Eaton , M .A . . . . 415