The villain : a portrait of Don Whillans

Don Whillans has an iconic significance for generations of climbers. His epoch-making first ascent of Annapurna's South Face, achieved with Dougal Haston in 1970, remains one of the most impressive climbs ever made - but behind this and all his other formidable achievements lies a tough, recalcitrant reality: the character of the man himself. Whillans carried within himself a sense of personal invincibility, forceful, direct and uncompromising. It gave him sporting superstar status - the flawed heroism of a Best, a McEnroe, an Ali. In his own circle, his image was the working-class hero on the rock-face, laconic and bellicose, ready to go to war with the elements or with any human who crossed his path on a bad day. A fascinating, thought-provoking biography of a climbing legend. Don Whillans has been an icon for generations of climbers. His first ascent of Annapurnas South Face with Dougal Haston in 1970, remains one of the most impressive climbs ever made a standard to which all contemporary Himalayan climbers aspire. But Perrin examines the tough reality behind Whillans formidable achievements the character of the man himself. Despite his skill and daring, Whillans was a savage-tongued, hell-raising scrapper turned down for a Queens Birthday honour, because of a violent fracas with the police. Coming out of a world miles away from the environment of the upper class climbers who dominated the sport, Whillans forceful, uncompromising personality gave him superstar status the flawed heroism of a Best, a McEnroe, or an Ali. From the Hardcover edition. At five o'clock, with relief, Dougal realises that the thinking of darkness he's been desiring and imagining for restless hours is now real, that grey dawn's seeping into the tent.