The Stories Clothes Tell: Voices of Working Class Japan

"This compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing and oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. He reveals not only the often desperate lives of these people, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values"--Provided by publisher. "Spanning decades of research, this compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing--ranging from everyday kimono, work clothes, uniforms, and futons to actors' costumes, diapers, hats, aprons, and bags. Simultaneously he collected oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. Horikiri reveals not only the difficult and sometimes desperate lives of these people, most from the lower strata in early twentieth-century Japan, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values. He also explores such topics as textile techniques, the history of fashion, and the ethnography of clothing and related cultural phenomena. Having been wrongly accused and tortured by the Japanese military police in China during World War II, Horikiri takes a deeply empathetic view of all those who struggle--from peasants and coal miners to traveling salesmen and itinerant performers. This personal connection sets his account apart, giving his writing great power and immediacy. Students and scholars of Japanese history, as well those interested in material culture, labor history, and feminist history, will find this book deeply illuminating"--Publisher's website. List of Illustrations vii Notes to the Reader ix Timeline xi Maps xiii Introduction by Rieko Wagoner xv 1 Kasuri Mattress Cover from Home 1 2 Koshimaki Petticoat of Eighty-Three Patches 5 3 Echigo-jishi Costume for Boy Dancer 9 4 How Many Diapers? 15 5 Two Hanten Field Jackets 21 6 Okiboda, the Pride of Women 25 7 My Teacher’s Sunday Best 29 8 A Weighty Quilt 33 9 Life with a Mosquito Net 39 10 A Bed of Wood Shavings 43 11 The Meisen the Girl Could Not Wear 47 12 Dead Horse 51 13 Female Coal Miners 53 14 Aunties and Uncles 61 15 Rich and Poor 65 16 A Beggar Girl 69 17 Noble-Minded Ladies 73 18 A Gown of Leaves for the Dead 79 19 Katatsuke-gasuri 83 20 A Lady in a Dilapidated Mansion 89 21 Female Workers in Textile Mills 93 22 Forbidden Tears 97 23 The Thousand-Stitch Waistband 101 24 The Rising Sun Kimono That She Wore 105 25 Gifts from My Mother 109 26 Akemi’s Song 115 27 Military Uniforms and Shoes 121 28 What Mompe Trousers Symbolized 129 29 A White Chima Jeogori 133 30 Sarasa Print Bed Quilt 137 31 Hanten Story 141 Afterword 157 Acknowledgments 161 Glossary of Clothing Terms 163 Selected Bibliography 169 Index 173 About the Author 179 Notes to the Reader: Era Designation and Timeline Map Kasuri Mattress Cover from Home Koshimaki petticoat of 83 patches Echigo-jishi Costume for Boy Dancer How Many Diapers? Two Hanten Field Jackets Okiboda, the Pride of Women My Teacher's Sunday Best A Weighty Quilt Life with a Mosquito Net A Bed of Wood Shavings The Meisen the Girl Could Not Wear Dead Horse Female Coal Miners Aunties and Uncles Rich and Poor A Begging Girl Noble-minded Ladies A Gown of Leaves for the Dead Katatsuke-gasuri A Lady in a Dilapidated Mansion Female Workers in Textile Mills Forbidden Tears The Thousand-stitch Waistband The Rising Sun Kimono That She Wore Gifts from My Mother Akemi's Song Military Uniforms and Shoes What Mompe Trousers Symbolized A White Chima Jeogori Sarasa Print Bed Quilt Hanten Story Afterword Clothing Term Glossary. Spanning decades of research, this compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing—ranging from everyday kimono, work clothes, uniforms, and futons to actor’s costumes, diapers, hats, aprons, and bags. Simultaneously he collected oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. Horikiri reveals not only the difficult and sometimes desperate lives of these people, most from the lower strata of society in early twentieth-century Japan, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values. Students and scholars of Japanese history, as well those interested in material culture, labor history, and feminist history, will find this book deeply illuminating. Scope and content: "This compelling social history tells the stories of ordinary people in modern Japan. Tatsuichi Horikiri spent a lifetime searching out old items of clothing and oral history accounts to shed light on those who used these items. He reveals not only the often desperate lives of these people, he illuminates their hopes, aspirations, and human values"--Provided by publisher