The right to dress : sumptuary laws in a global perspective, c. 1200-1800

This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'. 01.0_pp_i_ii_The_Right_to_Dress 02.0_pp_iii_iii_The_Right_to_Dress 03.0_pp_iv_iv_Copyright_page 04.0_pp_v_viii_Contents 05.0_pp_ix_xii_Figures 06.0_pp_xiii_xvi_Contributors 07.0_pp_xvii_xviii_Acknowledgements 08.0_pp_1_34_Introduction 09.0_pp_35_164_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Medieval_and_Early_Modern_Europe 09.1_pp_37_73_The_Right_to_Dress_Sartorial_Politics_in_Germany_c_13001750 09.2_pp_74_95_Playing_by_the_Rules_Dressing_without_Sumptuary_Laws_in_the_Low_Countries_from_the_Fourteenth_to_the 09.3_pp_96_120_Outlandish_Superfluities_Luxury_and_Clothing_in_Scottish_and_English_Sumptuary_Law_from_the_Fourteen 09.4_pp_121_142_Regulating_Sumptuousness_Changing_Configurations_of_Morals_Politics_and_Economics_in_Swiss_Cities_in 09.5_pp_143_164_Dangerous_Fashions_in_Swedish_Sumptuary_Law 10.0_pp_165_240_Enacting_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Italy 10.1_pp_167_185_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Italy_Financial_Resource_and_Instrument_of_Rule 10.2_pp_186_209_Defending_the_Right_to_Dress_Two_Sumptuary_Law_Protests_in_Sixteenth-Century_Milan 10.3_pp_210_240_Against_the_Law_Sumptuary_Prosecutions_in_Sixteenth-_and_Seventeenth-Century_Padova 11.0_pp_241_372_The_European_Maritime_Powers_and_Their_Empires 11.1_pp_243_272_Spanish_Fashion_and_Sumptuary_Legislation_from_the_Thirteenth_to_the_Eighteenth_Century 11.2_pp_273_298_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Portugal_and_its_Empire_from_the_Fourteenth_to_the_Eighteenth_Century 11.3_pp_299_324_Splendour_and_Magnificence_Diplomacy_and_Sumptuary_Codes_in_Early_Modern_Batavia 11.4_pp_325_345_Race_Clothing_and_Identity_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Colonial_Spanish_America 11.5_pp_346_372_Sartorial_Sorting_in_the_Colonial_Caribbean_and_North_America 12.0_pp_373_478_Early_Modern_World_Empires 12.1_pp_375_392_Grandeur_and_Show_Clothing_Commerce_and_the_Capital_in_Early_Modern_Russia 12.2_pp_393_415_Women_Minorities_and_the_Changing_Politics_of_Dress_in_the_Ottoman_Empire_16501830 12.3_pp_416_434_Wearing_the_Hat_of_Loyalty_Imperial_Power_and_Dress_Reform_in_Ming_Dynasty_China 12.4_pp_435_460_Regulating_Excess_The_Cultural_Politics_of_Consumption_in_Tokugawa_Japan 12.5_pp_461_478_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Precolonial_West_Africa_The_Examples_of_Benin_and_Dahomey