The Politics of Dress in Asia And the Americas (Sussex Library of Asian Studies)

This book explores the ways in which dress has been influential in the political agendas and self-representations of politicians in a variety of regimes from democratic to authoritarian. Arguing that dress is part of'hard core'politics, it shows how dress has been crucial to the constructions of nationhood and national identities in both Asia and the Americas. Since dress has been a marker of identity and status, chapters engage with the gendering of the politics of dress, discussing how women have become bearers and wearers of'national tradition'and how men and women's dress reflect their political positions in the nation-state. It examines the magical power of cloth, the meanings of batik and design, the holy status of uncut cloth versus cut cloth, and the quaint combination of non-Western with Western attire. This collection of pioneering essays fills a vacuum in the largely Eurocentric field of dress studies, demanding that attention be paid to Asia and the Americas as major sites of vestimentary creativity. During Suharto's New Order (1966-1998), the ethnic Chinese expanded the nation's economy (and their own wealth), but, paradoxically, were marginalized and discriminated against in all social spheres: culture, language, politics, and entrance to state-owned universities, public service and public employment. Following the fall of Suharto, and the anti-Chinese riots in May 1998, Indonesia underwent a process of "Reformasi" and democratization, whereby for the first time in several decades Chinese culture became more visible. Many ethnic Chinese took advantage of the new democratic space to establish political parties, non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and action groups to fight for the abolition of discriminatory laws, defend their rights and promote solidarity between ethnic groups in Indonesia. They utilized the Reformasi atmosphere to promote pluralism and multiculturalism, and to liberate their long-suppressed identity and cultural heritage "This book sets out to unpack the complex meanings of "Chineseness" in post-1998 Indonesia, including the ways in which the policy of multiculturalism enabled such a "resurgence", the forces that shaped it and the possibilities for "resinicisation". The author examines how ethnic Chinese self-identify, and investigates how the pribumi "Other" has contributed to identifying the ethnic boundary in terms of "race" and class. A unique aspect of the study is its discussion of the complexities of cultural crossing, borrowing and mixing experience of Chinese-Indonesians through localisation and globalisation." --Book Jacket This book sets out to unpack the complex meanings of "Chineseness" in post-1998 Indonesia, including the ways in which the policy of multiculturalism enabled such "resurgence", the forces that shaped it and the possibilities for "resinicization". The author examines how ethnic Chinese self-identify, and investigates how the pribumi "Other" has contributed to identifying the ethnic boundary in terms of "race" and class. A unique aspect of the study is its discussion of the complexities of cultural crossing, borrowing and mixing experience of Chinese-Indonesians through localization and globalization Approaches to accommodating Chineseness Historical constructions of Chinese identity Chinese "culture" and self-identity Heterogeneity and internal dynamics of Chinese politics Reemergence of the Chinese press "Race," class and stereotyping : Pribumi perceptions of Chineseness Preserving ethnicity : boundary maintenance and border-crossing Conclusion : reconceptualizing Chineseness.