The Material Landscapes of Scotland’s Jewellery Craft, 1780-1914

"Jewellery is used to adorn the human body, to mark wealth and status, and to build and mark personal and emotional ties between individuals. The role of goldsmiths and jewellers in manipulating materials to fuse symbolic and monetary value in precious and deeply meaningful objects has seen their skill command a high level of respect across time and place. Yet the making of jewellery during the modern era has received very little scholarly attention. The Material Landscapes of Scotland's Jewellery Craft 1780-1914 challenges the tired but persistent notion that industrialization, by replacing the human hand with the machine, destroyed skilled craftsmanship by exploring the neglected but rich area of Scotland's jewellery craft during the long 19th century. It demonstrates that industrialization was, in fact, the driving force behind a deeper engagement with hand skill and nature that is more closely associated with goldsmiths of the early modern period. The book explores the material, visual and symbolic dimensions to jewellery through a craft-based reading that considers these sources by fusing social and cultural history methods with approaches drawn from art, design and dress history. The making and wearing of jewellery are considered as embodied cultural practices throughout, forging a new methodological approach that can be applied more widely to the study of material things. By placing producers and their skill in cultural context, the book reveals how attending to the materiality of even the smallest of objects can offer new and multifaceted insights into the wider transformations that marked British history during the long 19th century. With its focus on the relationship between materials, making processes, and the social and cultural meanings of things the book offers a novel approach to the history of material culture"-- Provided by publisher Shortlisted for the History Book Award in Scotland's National Book Awards, 2023 During the long 19th century, Scotland was home to an established body of skilled jewellers who were able to access a range of materials from the country's varied natural landscape: precious gold and silver; sparkling crystals and colourful stones; freshwater pearls, shells and parts of rare animals. Following these materials on their journey from hill and shore, across the jeweller's bench and on to the bodies of wearers, this book challenges the persistent notion that the forces of industrialisation led to the decline of craft. It instead reveals a vivid picture of skilled producers who were driving new and revived areas of hand skill, and who were key to fostering a focused cultural engagement with the natural world – among both producers and consumers – through the things they made. By placing producers and their skill in cultural context, the book reveals how examining the materiality of even the smallest of objects can offer new and multifaceted insights into the wider transformations that marked British history during the long 19th century. Uniting a vast array of jewellery objects with a range of other sources – including paintings, engravings, newspaper reports, letters, inventories of big houses and small workshops, sketchbooks, novels, works of literary geology and early travel writings – this book provides a deep dive into the cultural history of jewellery production through accessible thematic studies. In doing so, it sets out innovative methodologies for writing about the histories of craft production, the natural environment and the material world. Now available in a paperback edition, it will be an important addition to the bookshelf of cultural historians and those interested in Scotland's wild landscapes and natural objects. During the long 19th century, Scotland was home to an established body of skilled jewellers who were able to access a range of materials from the country's varied natural landscape: precious gold and silver; sparkling crystals and colourful stones; freshwater pearls, shells and parts of rare animals. Following these materials on their journey from hill and shore, across the jeweller's bench and on to the bodies of wearers, this book challenges the persistent notion that the forces of industrialisation led to the decline of craft. It instead reveals a vivid picture of skilled producers who were driving new and revived areas of hand skill, and who were key to fostering a focused cultural engagement with the natural world – among both producers and consumers – through the things they made. By placing producers and their skill in cultural context, the book reveals how examining the materiality of even the smallest of objects can offer new and multifaceted insights into the wider transformations that marked British history during the long 19th century. The Material Landscapes of Scotland's Jewellery Craft 1780-1914 brings together a vast array of jewellery objects with a range of other sources – including paintings, engravings, newspaper reports, letters, inventories of big houses and small workshops, sketchbooks, novels, works of literary geology and early travel writings – to provide a detailed cultural history of jewellery production. In doing so, it sets out innovative methodologies for writing about the histories of craft production, the natural environment and the material world.