The Delia Collection: Soup

Soup, part of Delia Smith's four-volume The Delia Collection is, in some ways, the most interesting volume in the series. The image of soup has undergone something of a transformation in recent years. This most unglamorous of foods has become a chic accoutrement of many a dinner party, and the possibilities of soup are now seen as many and varied.As in other volumes in the series, Delia divides her recipes seasonally and the variety of soups available here is surprisingly wide. In spring, Delia presents such basics as Carrot and Coriander Soup (although her recipe may hold some surprises, even if you count this soup in your repertoire), alongside more ambitious recipes such as Shiitake Broth with Sesame Toast (this is a light soup that is not too calorie-heavy, made with Japanese miso stock and dried shiitake mushrooms). Summer sports some unusual and tempting recipes such as Chilled Almond Soup (called Ajo Blanco here) for which Delia dispenses with what might be seen as almost cursory instructions. But this is the secret of the four books in The Delia Collection: not a word is wasted, and adjectives are kept to an absolute minimum: after all, we know we can rely on Delia to pick only the most interesting recipes. For autumn, there's a piquant Wild Mushroom and Walnut Soup, perfect for the colder weather, while winter has such delights as Slow-cooked Root Vegetable Soup and The London Particular (which is, in fact, yellow split pea soup). Whether you buy individual volumes of The Delia Collection or all four books (much the best course of action!), your kitchen library will be enriched. --Barry Forshaw