The Companion Guide to Sicily: New Edition (Companion Guides)

The beautiful island of Sicily, poised between Europe and Africa, has seen many invaders, nearly all of whom have left their mark in art and architecture. It is also a land of myth and enigma, pagan below the Catholic surface, troubled by the shadow of the Mafia - in the words of the great Sicilian writer Leonardo Sciascia, a fantasy world. Raleigh Trevelyan knows the island intimately, and his knowledge adds immeasurably to the experience of visiting the great sites: Segesta, Agrigento and the mosaics of the Roman villa near Piazza Armerina, Palermo and Monreale, the theatre at Syracuse and the baroque marvels of Noto. Unforgettable though these are, Sicily's unique character is more fully revealed as the author makes his leisurely way from province to province, describing the landscape and monuments, great treasures and remote villages, and spicing these discoveries with personal anecdote and references from writers down the centuries. RALEIGH TREVELYAN's books include several on Italian themes, notably Princes under the Volcano and two outstanding books about the Second World War in Italy: The Fortress: A Diary of Anzio and After and Rome 1944: The Battle for the Eternal City. CONTENTS ......Page 6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS......Page 8 LIST OF MAPS......Page 9 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ......Page 10 INTRODUCTION......Page 14 Palermo and Environs......Page 24 Palermo: Introduction......Page 26 1. Palermo I......Page 44 2. Palermo II......Page 66 3. Palermo III......Page 81 4. Palermo IV......Page 96 5. Palermo V......Page 105 6. Palermo VI......Page 112 7. Palermo VII......Page 117 8. Palermo VIII......Page 124 9. From Monreale to San Martino......Page 132 10. From Bagherìa to Soluntum......Page 139 11. Himera and Cefalù......Page 145 12. Ustica......Page 154 Western Sicily......Page 158 13. From Piana degli Albanesi to Ciminna......Page 162 14. From Terrasini to Alcamo......Page 167 15. From Segesta to Tràpani......Page 173 16. The Egadi Islands and Pantellerìa......Page 190 17. Motya and Marsala......Page 195 18. From Selinunte to Castelvetrano......Page 209 19. From Sciacca to Caltabellotta......Page 223 20. Agrigento......Page 235 21. To Lercara Friddi and Racalmuto......Page 252 22. From Palma di Montechiaro to Mazzarino......Page 259 South-eastern Sicily......Page 268 23. Piazza Armerina and Morgantina......Page 270 24. From Camarina to Ragusa......Page 285 25. From Mòdica to Ispica......Page 295 26. Noto......Page 302 27. Syracuse I......Page 312 28. Syracuse II......Page 331 29. From Pantàlica to Palazzolo Acrèide......Page 346 North-eastern Sicily......Page 354 30. From Carlentini to Palagonìa......Page 356 31. Caltagirone......Page 363 32. Catania......Page 370 33. Etna......Page 389 34. From Aci Castello to Calatabiano......Page 397 35. Naxos and Taormina......Page 403 36. From Francavilla to Adrano......Page 415 37. The Hill Towns of Eastern Sicily......Page 424 38. From Enna to Caltanissetta......Page 436 39. From Forza d’Agrò to Messina......Page 453 40. The Eastern Tyrhennian Coast and the Aeolian Islands......Page 471 41. From Castroreale to Naso......Page 487 42. From San Marco d’Alunzio to Tusa......Page 500 43. Towns of the Madonìe......Page 506 44. From Collesano to Càccamo......Page 521 GLOSSARY......Page 528 CHRONOLOGICAL OUTLINE......Page 534 ANCIENT SITES IN SICILY......Page 540 ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS......Page 550 FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS......Page 561 REGIONAL DISHES AND WINES......Page 568 BIBLIOGRAPHY ......Page 576 INDEX OF PLACES ......Page 580 INDEX OF PERSONS......Page 590 CONTENTS 6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 8 LIST OF MAPS 9 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 10 INTRODUCTION 14 Palermo and Environs 24 Palermo: Introduction 26 1. Palermo I 44 2. Palermo II 66 3. Palermo III 81 4. Palermo IV 96 5. Palermo V 105 6. Palermo VI 112 7. Palermo VII 117 8. Palermo VIII 124 9. From Monreale to San Martino 132 10. From Bagherìa to Soluntum 139 11. Himera and Cefalù 145 12. Ustica 154 Western Sicily 158 13. From Piana degli Albanesi to Ciminna 162 14. From Terrasini to Alcamo 167 15. From Segesta to Tràpani 173 16. The Egadi Islands and Pantellerìa 190 17. Motya and Marsala 195 18. From Selinunte to Castelvetrano 209 19. From Sciacca to Caltabellotta 223 20. Agrigento 235 21. To Lercara Friddi and Racalmuto 252 22. From Palma di Montechiaro to Mazzarino 259 South-eastern Sicily 268 23. Piazza Armerina and Morgantina 270 24. From Camarina to Ragusa 285 25. From Mòdica to Ispica 295 26. Noto 302 27. Syracuse I 312 28. Syracuse II 331 29. From Pantàlica to Palazzolo Acrèide 346 North-eastern Sicily 354 30. From Carlentini to Palagonìa 356 31. Caltagirone 363 32. Catania 370 33. Etna 389 34. From Aci Castello to Calatabiano 397 35. Naxos and Taormina 403 36. From Francavilla to Adrano 415 37. The Hill Towns of Eastern Sicily 424 38. From Enna to Caltanissetta 436 39. From Forza d’Agrò to Messina 453 40. The Eastern Tyrhennian Coast and the Aeolian Islands 471 41. From Castroreale to Naso 487 42. From San Marco d’Alunzio to Tusa 500 43. Towns of the Madonìe 506 44. From Collesano to Càccamo 521 GLOSSARY 528 CHRONOLOGICAL OUTLINE 534 ANCIENT SITES IN SICILY 540 ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS 550 FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS 561 REGIONAL DISHES AND WINES 568 BIBLIOGRAPHY 576 INDEX OF PLACES 580 INDEX OF PERSONS 590 9781900639446,9781846157028 Boydell & Brewer Ltd. This vivid, knowledgeable and privileged guide to the riches of Sicily is vintage Companion Guide. The beautiful island of Sicily, poised between Europe and Africa, has seen many invaders, nearly all of whom have left their mark in art and architecture. It is also a land of myth and enigma, pagan below the Catholic surface, troubled by the shadow of the Mafia - in the words of the great Sicilian writer Leonardo Sciascia, a fantasy world. Raleigh Trevelyan knows the island intimately, and his knowledge adds immeasurably to the experience of visiting the great Segesta, Agrigento and the mosaics of the Roman villa near Piazza Armerina, Palermo and Monreale, the theatre at Syracuse and the baroque marvels of Noto. Unforgettable though these are, Sicily's unique character is more fully revealed as the author makes his leisurely way from province to province, describing the landscape and monuments, great treasures and remote villages, and spicing these discoveries with personal anecdote and references from writers down the centuries. RALEIGH TREVELYAN's books include several on Italian themes, notably Princes under the Volcano and two outstanding books about the Second World War in The A Diary of Anzio and After and Rome 1944: The Battle for the Eternal City.