Sartorial Practices and Social Order in Eighteenth-Century Sweden : Fashioning Difference

The interplay between clothes and social order in early modern societies is well known. Differences in dress and hierarchies of appearances coincided with and structured social hierarchies and notions of difference. However, clothes did not merely reproduce set social patterns. They were agents of change, actively used by individuals and groups to make claims and transgress formal boundaries. This was not least the case for the revolutionary decades of the late eighteenth century, the period in focus of this book. Unlike previous studies on sumptuary laws and other legal actions taken by governments and formal power holders, this book offers a broader and more everyday perspective on late eighteenth-century sartorial discourse. In 1773, there was a publicly announced prize competition on the advantages and disadvantages of a national dress in Sweden. Departing from the submitted replies, the study opens a window onto the sartorial world. Several fields of cultural history are brought together: __social culture__ in terms of order, hierarchies, and notions of difference; __sartorial culture__ with contemporary views on dress and moral aspects of sartorial practices; and __visual culture__ in terms of sartorial means of making a difference and the emphasis on the necessity of a legible social order. "The interplay between clothes and social order in early modern societies is well known. Differences in dress and hierarchies of appearances coincided with and structured social hierarchies and notions of difference. However, clothes did not merely reproduce set social patterns. They were agents of change, actively used by individuals and groups to make claims and transgress formal boundaries. This was not least the case for the revolutionary decades of the late eighteenth century, the period in focus of this book. Unlike previous studies on sumptuary laws and other legal actions taken by governments and formal power holders, this book offers a broader and more everyday perspective on late eighteenth-century sartorial discourse. In 1773, there was a publicly announced prize competition on the advantages and disadvantages of a national dress in Sweden. Departing from the submitted replies, the study opens a window onto the sartorial world. Several fields of cultural history are brought together: social culture in terms of order, hierarchies and notions of difference; sartorial culture with contemporary views on dress and moral aspects of sartorial practices; and visual culture in terms of sartorial means of making difference and the emphasis on the necessity of a legible social order"-- Provided by publisher Cover Half Title Series Title Copyright Contents List of Figures List of Tables Acknowledgements 1 A Question Posed: Entering the Sartorial World 2 The Nature of Order 3 Disorder in the Sartorial World 4 The Ordering of Difference 5 Fashioning Difference: Conclusions Bibliography Index This book approaches the complex and contested relationship between sartorial practices and social order in the age of revolutions. What was the nature of social order? What was wrong in contemporary sartorial practices? How should proper difference be visualized?