Proceedings of the Second International Conference of Innovative Textiles and Developed Materials-ITDM’2; 05-06 May 2023; Tunisia : Research Innovations in Smart, Technical and Ecological Textiles

This book includes selected articles from the 2nd International Conference on Innovative Textiles and Developed Materials (ITDM’2) held in Monastir, Tunisia, on May 5 and 6, 2023. The articles present latest scientific concepts and technological advances in innovative and sustainable textile materials and processes worldwide. The conference promotes exchange of ideas and emerging technologies to foster collaboration between academia and industry. Organization Preface Contents Ecological Textiles Dyeing & Finishing Multiple Reuse of Residual Dyebaths for Cotton Dyeing with Reactive Dyestuffs: A Promising Technique for Environmental Sustainability 1 Introduction 2 Material and Methods 2.1 Material 2.2 Dyebath Reuse Procedure 2.3 Determination of Dyebath Exhaustion 2.4 Color Measurement 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Dyeing with a Single Reactive Dye 3.2 Dyeing with a Binary Mixture of Reactive Dyes 4 Conclusions References Effect of Polyester Structure on Drying Behavior 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Yarn’s Structural Characteristics 2.2 Fabric’s Structural Characteristics 2.3 The Drying Behavior 3 Results and Discussions 4 Conclusion References A Comparative Study of Environmental Sustainability Initiatives of Two Major Jeanswear Brands 1 Introduction 2 Methodology 2.1 Selection of Brands 2.2 Collection of Data 2.3 Analysis Method 3 Environmental Sustainability Initiatives 3.1 GHG Emission and Energy Use 3.2 Water Use 3.3 Chemicals Use and Wastewater Discharge 3.4 Waste Management 3.5 Circularity 3.6 Materials Sourcing 4 Discussion 5 Conclusion References Investigation and Optimization of a New Bleaching Process for Sulfur-Dyed Denim Fabric 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 2.2 Methods 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Study of the Experimental Parameters Effect on the Bleach Treatment 3.2 Optimization of the Bleach Treatment Recipe 4 Conclusion References Investigation of an Eco-Friendly Acid Dyeing Process of Cotton Fabric 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Fabric 2.2 Cotton Cationization and Dyeing 2.3 Color Strength and Dye Exhaustion Measurement 2.4 Dye Optimization and Prediction Models 2.5 Scanning Electron Microscopic Analysis 2.6 Compression and Thermal Properties Analysis 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Dyeing Optimization and Modelization 3.2 Surface Morphological Analysis 3.3 KES Characterization 4 Conclusion References Dyeing of the Polyester Fabric with the Fluorescein Molecule 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Polyester and Fluorescein Dye 2.2 Dyeing Procedure 3 Results and Discussions 3.1 pH Quenching of Fluorescein Absorbance 3.2 Effect of pH and Temperature on Dye Exhaustion 3.3 Effect of pH and Fluorescein Concentration on the Reflectance 4 Conclusion References Study of a New Dyeing Process Based on the Capillary Rise Technique 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials 2.2 Methods 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Physicochemical Study of the Dyeing Process Based on the Capillary Rise Technique 3.2 Study of the Capillary Rise in a Knitted Fabric 3.3 Study of the Salt Effect on the Capillary Rise Process 3.4 Behavior of the Color Strength with the Increase of Height 4 Conclusion References Innovative Materials & Polymers Ballistic Impact Response of Multi-Layers Armors Against Piercing Projectile: Finite Element Modeling 1 Introduction 2 Finite Element Modeling 2.1 Description of the Finite Element Model 2.2 Material Properties 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Validation of the Finite Element 3.2 Effect of Impact Velocity 3.3 Comparison Between Two- and Three-Layer Targets 3.4 Effect of the Design Parameters 4 Conclusion References Effect of the Cultivar on the Development Hemp Stem and Textile Fiber in the East of France 1 Introduction 2 Material and Methods 2.1 Raw Material 2.2 Stem Characterization 2.3 Fiber Characterization 2.4 Statistical Analysis 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Weather 3.2 Stem Characterization 3.3 Fiber Characterization 4 Conclusion References Energetic Valorization of Cutting Textile Waste by Transforming It into Thermal Insulation Products 1 Introduction 2 Chemical Characterization of Textile 3 Sample Design 4 Thermal Characterization 4.1 Conductivity 4.2 Diffusivity 5 Results 5.1 Textile Characterization 5.2 Conductivity 5.3 Diffusivity 6 Conclusion References Functionalization of a Textile Surface by N2 Jet Technology to Improve Its Roughness for Medical Applications 1 Introduction 2 Material and Methods 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Influence of the Pressure on the Hairiness Level 3.2 Bending Stiffness 4 Conclusion References The Living Design: The Soul of Regenerative Design and the Key to an Ecological Transition 1 How Has Sustainable Design Served the Natural Ecosystem State? 1.1 Regenerative Design: A Solution for the Future 1.2 The Pillars of Regenerative Design 2 How Can Living Design Contribute to Creating a More Sustainable Future? 2.1 Biofabrication: A Process of Reversal 2.2 Synthetic Biology is the Soul of Biomaterials 2.3 The Hybrid Nature: Restoration Process 3 “Futures Hybrids” by Carole Collet: An Example of Using Living Design to Preserve Biodiversity 4 Conclusion: Living Design: A Promising Path for Regenerative Design References Using Fabric Warping in Architecture: A Contemporary Conception for Technical Use 1 The Textile Envelope in Architecture 1.1 The Building Envelope 1.2 The Tent, the Origin of Textile Envelope 2 The Properties of the Textile Envelope for Contemporary Design 3 Cases of Study 4 Conclusion References Use of Date Palm Waste to Produce Bio-Composite Material 1 Introduction 2 Material and Method 2.1 Reinforcement (Leaflets Fibers) 2.2 Matrix (White Glue-PVA) 2.3 Specimens Preparation 3 Results 4 Conclusion References Application of Biopolymers in Medical Textiles: Myriad of Opportunities 1 Introduction 2 Biopolymers Used in Medical Textile Applications 2.1 Polysaccharide Materials 2.2 Proteins 3 Electrospinning of Biomaterials for Medical Purposes 4 Wound Healing Application 5 Tissue Engineering and Regeneration 6 Drug Delivery 7 Conclusions References Smart & Technical Textiles Study of the Weight Loss of Abrasive Non-wovens from Industrial Waste 1 Introduction 2 Experimental 2.1 Fibers Preparation 2.2 Producing Non-woven Components 2.3 Preparation of Abrasive Particles 2.4 Abrasives Manufacturing 2.5 Abrasion Test 2.6 Choice of Factors and Field of Study 2.7 Scanning Electron Microscopy Characterization 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Surface Morphology 3.2 Box-Behnken Analysis of Loss in Mass of Abrasives 3.3 Analysis of Main Effects Plots 4 Conclusion References Numerical Investigations of the Tribological Behavior of G1151 Fabric Through Frictional Sensitivity Study During Drawing Using a Hybrid Elastic Discrete Model 1 Introduction 2 Material 3 Presentation of Hybrid Elastic Discrete Model 4 Results and Discussion of the Study on the Sensitivity of Friction 5 Conclusion References Effect of the Twist and Composite Process on the Tensile Behavior of Carbon Multifilament Rovings. An Experimental Investigation Toward the Identification of Constituents’ Behaviors 1 Introduction 2 Material and Methods 3 Results and Discussions 4 Conclusion References Investigation of the Properties of Developed Abrasives After Abrasion Test 1 Introduction 2 Experimental 2.1 Fibers Preparation 2.2 Nonwoven Manufacturing 2.3 Abrasive Grains Preparation 2.4 Abrasives Manufacturing 2.5 Abrasion Test 2.6 Techniques of Characterization 2.7 Choice of Factors and Field of Study 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 EDX Analysis 3.2 Box–Behnken Analysis of Loss in Mass of Abrasives 3.3 Analysis of the Interaction Diagrams 4 Conclusion References Contribution to the Improvement of Certain Comfort Characteristics of Baby Diapers 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Separation Methods of Diaper Components 2.2 Methods of Characterization of Disposable Baby Diapers 3 Results and Discussions 3.1 Analysis of Characteristics of Composition 3.2 Analysis of the Fabrication Characteristics: Mass, Thickness and Density of the Baby Diapers 3.3 Analysis of Comfort Characteristics 4 Conclusion References DMAIC Approach to Optimize the Production Capacities of a Tunisian Clothing Manufacture: A Case Study 1 Introduction 2 Research Methodology 3 Case Study 3.1 Define 3.2 Measure 3.3 Analyze 3.4 Improve 3.5 Control 4 Conclusion References The Impact of Acid Blue Dye Concentration on Color Strength and the Chromaticity Coordinates of Raw and Tannery Wool: A Comparative Study 1 Introduction 2 Experimental 2.1 A Wool Sample 2.2 SEM Analysis 2.3 Methods 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Morphological Study 3.2 Color Strength (K/SAVG) 3.3 Color Parameters (L* a* b* C* h°) 4 Conclusion References Smart Textile Industry: Threats and Opportunities 1 Introduction 2 Smart Textile Enabling Technologies 2.1 Sensors Used in Smart Textiles 2.2 Conductive Materials Used in Smart Textile 2.3 Actuators for Smart Textiles 2.4 Power Sources Used in Smart Textile 3 Smart Textile Applications 4 Cybersecurity in the Smart Textile Context 4.1 Cyber Threats 4.2 Privacy Versus Security 4.3 Impact on Health 4.4 Designing Adequate Security Solutions 4.5 Life Cycle of a Thing 5 Smart Textiles Standards 5.1 Mainstream Standards for Smart Textiles 5.2 Regulation of Smart Textiles 5.3 Risk Assessment 5.4 The 9S Design Paradigm 6 Conclusion References 4.0 Industry & Textile Processes Fabric Texture Reconstruction Via Multilayer Dictionary Learning 1 Introduction 2 Experiments Details 3 Methods 3.1 Multilayer Dictionary Learning-Based Encoding 3.2 Variational Autoencoder-Based Texture Generation 3.3 Regularization Terms 4 Results 5 Discussion 6 Conclusion References Application of the Desirability Function for Optimizing the Use of Calcium Carbonate Used in the Production Process of PVC-Coated Textile 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 2.1 Raw Materials 2.2 Synthesis of PVC Synthetic Leather 2.3 Desirability Approach 3 Results and Discussions 3.1 Quality Assessment 3.2 Choice of the Tolerance Interval 3.3 Optimization of the Production Process of Coated Textiles Used in Furniture Manufacture 4 Conclusion References Ergonomic Study on Ironing Stations in Tunisian Clothing Companies 1 Introduction 2 Methods of Work and Materials Used 3 Results 3.1 Discomfort Quiz and MSD Risk Factors 3.2 Monitoring of Leaning Posture and Measurement of Arduousness 4 Discussion on the Results 5 Recommendation 6 Conclusion and Perspectives References An Algorithm at Incoming Quality Control of Raw Woven Fabrics—Cottonade Jacquard 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Prerequisites 3 Experimental Work 3.1 Experimental Set 3.2 Description of Experimental Tests 3.3 Experimental Results 4 Analysis and Discussion 5 Conclusion References Application of Multi-objective Ant Colony Algorithm to Resolve Textile Color Matching Problem 1 Introduction 2 Experimental 2.1 Materials 2.2 Dyeing 2.3 Color Evaluation 2.4 Multi-objective Ant Colony Algorithm 3 Results and Discussion 4 Conclusion References Deep Learning for DENIM Defects Detection 1 Introduction 2 Materials and Methods 3 Results and Discussion 4 Conclusion References Modeling of Textile Materials and Structures: Some Numerical and Experimental Aspects 1 Introduction 2 Modeling of Textile Materials and Structures 2.1 Textile Materials and Structures 2.2 Fabric Modeling: Main Historical Milestones, Typology, and Finalities 3 Continuous Models Formulation and Numerical Solving 3.1 General Formulation 3.2 Experimental Identification of Constitutive Equations 3.3 Numerical Solving 4 Conclusions References