Patriots Against Fashion : Clothing and Nationalism in Europe’s Age of Revolutions

viii 1.1 Bloomerism as Crusade (1851) 1.2 A Satire of Fashion: 'Pot Daywear' (1909) 1.3 Louise Bourbon's Hat made from a Strainer (1938) 2.1 The Dandy as a Woman's Plaything (1818) 2.2 Paterfamilias Imposes Sensible Shoes, Punch (1854) 3.1 Two ranks of the Sambenito (1692) 6.1 David's Costume for the People's Representative in the Army (1794) 8.1 King Othon I in Foustanela (1835) 9.1 The Metamorphoses of a Hungarian Coat in 1849-1850 (1861) During the era of the French Revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform, which all members of the nation would wear in their everyday life. Patriot dreams of overthrowing 'the tyranny of Queen Fashion' emerged from the sumptuary tradition and Enlightenment ideas about social order, but reveal the diversity of national ideologies in the age of Revolutionary nationalism. Uniform schemes reflect the rise of social egalitarianism, as the source of imagined national sovereignty slipped from monarchs to 'the people, ' variously understood. Since the feminine associations of fashion often trumped masculine national ideas, national uniforms also shed light on ideals of gender. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses specific examples from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales Front Matter....Pages i-ix Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies....Pages 1-8 Fashion as a Social Problem....Pages 9-28 The Tyranny of Queen Fashion....Pages 29-45 The Sumptuary Mentality....Pages 46-57 The Discovery of the Uniform....Pages 58-79 Absolutist National Uniforms....Pages 80-95 Democratic National Uniforms....Pages 96-120 Minimal National Uniforms....Pages 121-152 Folk Costumes as National Uniforms....Pages 153-179 National Fashionism: Queen Fashion as Patriot....Pages 180-206 Haute Couture and National Textiles....Pages 207-236 Back Matter....Pages 237-311 During the era of the French revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses case studies from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales.