On the Himalayan Trail : Recipes and Stories from Kashmir to Ladakh

Winner of the 2023 International Association of Culinary Professionals Award for best Culinary Travel Cookbook 'The heart and soul of beautiful Kashmir is in every single recipe. Simply stunning.' – Gordon Ramsay In On The Himalayan Trail Indian food writer and chef, Romy Gill, tells the story of Kashmir and Ladakh's unique and tantalising cuisine sharing over 80 extraordinary recipes that can be recreated in your own home kitchen. With everything from Shammi Kebabs (minced lamb patties) to Wagen Pakora (deep fried aubergine in gram flour) for Nashta (starters) succulent meat curries like the Kashmiri Rogan Josh or Gustaba (lamb meatballs cooked in a yoghurt gravy); to aromatic vegetable dishes such as the Kanguch yakhni (morels cooked in spicy gravy): these recipes shines a light on the magnificent, little-known cuisine of Kashmir and Leh, celebrating its land, its ingredients and its heritage. Kashmiri cuisine is one of the most delectable cuisines in India. Heavily influenced by Mughal, Persian, Afghan and Central Asian styles of cooking, it offers up a diverse range of dishes, displaying and revelling in a fusion of flavours and influences. Increasingly difficult to access due to the political uncertainty in the region, it's more important than ever to share and preserve Kashmir's secrets and traditional methods of cooking. Set to the backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas, with stunning travel photography throughout, this first-of-its-kind book, offers an intimate window into the life and the history of the Kashmiri and Ladakhi people, and why food is at the heart of this incredible place. A aal posh mond (fried pumpkin or courgette flowers) 1 aal posh (spicy pumpkin) 1 aal yakhni (lauki) (bottle gourd/summer squash cooked in yoghurt) 1 aalch chetin (sour cherry chutney) 1 Ahdoos Restaurant 1 Alchi Kitchen 1–2 Alchi Monastery 1 alu bukara korma (lamb with dried plums) 1 apples: gaad choonth (fish cooked with quince or green apples) 1 APRICOTS chhiear aachar (apricot pickle) 1 chulli jam (apricot jam) 1 khubani (dried apricots) 1 matz chhiear (meatballs stuffed with apricots) 1 yarkhandi pulao (rice with carrots, fruit and meat) 1, 2 Artisanal Alchemy 1, 2 Aru Valley 1 Aryan Valley 1–2 AUBERGINES bom choonth te wangun (quince with aubergines) 1 chok wangun (sour aubergines) 1 tamatar te wangun (aubergines cooked with tomatoes) 1 wangun pakore (aubergine pakoras) 1 wangun yakhni (fried aubergines in yoghurt) 1 B bakarkhani (sweet puff pastry biscuits) 1 batha (steamed/boiled rice) 1 bazaar e tagi (leavened flatbread) 1 Betaab Valley 1–2 BISCUITS bakarkhani (sweet puff pastry biscuits) 1 shaker pare (sweet deep-fried snacks) 1 blackcurrants: zirish chetin (blackcurrant chutney) 1 bom choonth (quince in a tangy sauce) 1 bom choonth te wangun (quince with aubergines) 1 bottle gourd: aal yakhni (lauki) (bottle gourd/summer squash cooked in yoghurt) 1 BREAD bazaar e tagi (leavened flatbread) 1 Kashmiri kander/girda (naan or flatbread) 1 Kashmiri kulcha (sweet spicy bread roll) 1 khambir (fermented wheat bread) 1, 2 makai tchot (maize flour flatbread) 1 paba with tangtur (roasted flour bread with spiced buttermilk) 1 tingmo (steamed bread) 1 tsong thaltak (wholewheat onion biscuit-bread) 1 Brokpa tribe 1–2 broth. see soup BUNS loko-mokmok with sha-phing (buns) 1 tingmo (steamed bread) 1 butter: khagla (cow’s-milk butter) 1 buttermilk: paba with tangtur (roasted flour bread with spiced buttermilk) 1 C cabbage: Ladakhi achar (cabbage & carrot pickle) 1 Cafe Liberty 1–2 cardamom 1 CARROTS Ladakhi achar (cabbage & carrot pickle) 1 yarkhandi pulao (rice with carrots, fruit and meat) 1, 2 Chadar Trek 1 CHAI 1–2 sheer/noon chai (pink salty tea) 1 Chai Jaai (Restaurant) 1–2 chaman (homemade paneer) 1 chaman kaliya (paneer in yellow gravy) 1 cheese 1–2, 3. see also paneer cherries: aalch chetin (sour cherry chutney) 1 chestnut flour: shaker pare (sweet deep-fried snacks) 1 chhiear aachar (apricot pickle) 1 chhurpi 1 CHICKEN kokur masala (chicken masala) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 kong kokur (saffron chicken) 1 thukpa (noodle soup) 1 chickpeas: shammi kebab (minced lamb patties) 1 CHILLIES 1 chaman kaliya (paneer in yellow gravy) 1 doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 gand chetin (shallot relish 1 haakh (Kashmiri spinach) 1 haakh te maaz (mutton with spinach) 1 haakh te nadir (spinach with lotus root) 1 monj haakh (Kashmiri kohlrabi) 1 muj doud dar (radish raita) 1 skyu (pasta with broth) 1, 2 tamatar te wangun (aubergines cooked with tomatoes) 1 thangnyer (chutney) 1 vegetable chatni (vegetables & chillies) 1 chips: fried trout (whole fried trout with spicy potato chips) 1 chok wangun (sour aubergines) 1 chulli jam (apricot jam) 1 chutagi (pasta with vegetables) 1, 2 CHUTNEY. SEE ALSO PICKLES; RELISHES aalch chetin (sour cherry chutney) 1 doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 tain tain with walnut chutney (buckwheat pancakes with walnut chutney) 1 thangnyer (chutney) 1 zirish chetin (blackcurrant chutney) 1 cinnamon 1 cloves 1 cockscomb flower extract 1–2 coconut chips: modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 cumin 1 CURRIES dodhe maaz/abb gosht (lamb cooked in milk) 1 gogji (turnip curry) 1 hadiwala marchwagan korma (red hot meat curry) 1 kokur masala (chicken masala) 1 D dahi (homemade yoghurt) 1 Dargah Hazratbal 1–2 dates: modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 DESSERTS halwa (semolina pudding with nuts) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 paktsa marku (dumplings) 1 dips: tangtur (yoghurt dip) 1 dodh aal (pumpkin relish) 1 dodhe maaz/abb gosht (lamb cooked in milk) 1 doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 DRINKS chai 1–2 gur gur cha (butter tea) 1 kahwa (Kashmiri spiced honey tea) 1, 2, 3 rooh afza (rose syrup drink) 1 sheer/noon chai (pink salty tea) 1 dum oluv (whole potatoes in spicy red gravy) 1 DUMPLINGS momos (dumplings) 1 paktsa marku (dumplings) 1 F fennel 1 FISH fried trout (whole fried trout with spicy potato chips) 1 gaad choonth (fish cooked with quince or green apples) 1 gaad fry (fried whitebait or sardines) 1 gaad te haakh (fish cooked with spinach) 1 gaad te tamatar (fish in tomato gravy) 1 muji gaad (sea bass with turnips) 1 phari 1 FLATBREAD Kashmiri kander/girda (naan or flatbread) 1 lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 makai tchot (maize flour flatbread) 1 French beans: haembe te nadir (French beans with lotus root) 1 G gaad choonth (fish cooked with quince or green apples) 1 gaad fry (fried whitebait or sardines) 1 gaad te haakh (fish cooked with spinach) 1 gaad te tamatar (fish in tomato gravy) 1 gand chetin (shallot relish) 1 GARLIC fried trout (whole fried trout with spicy potato chips) 1 ver masala(spice cake with garlic and shallots) 1 ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 107W ginger 1 GOAT ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 naat yakkhn (goat cooked in yoghurt) 1 tabakh maaz (fried ribs) 1 gogji (turnip curry) 1 gourd: aal yakhni (lauki) (bottle gourd/summer squash cooked in yoghurt) 1 gram flour: wangun pakore (aubergine pakoras) 1 GRAVIES chaman kaliya (paneer in yellow gravy) 1 dum oluv (whole potatoes in spicy red gravy) 1 gaad te tamatar (fish in tomato gravy) 1 ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 kanaguchhi yakhni (morels in spicy yoghurt gravy) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 nadir yakhni (lotus root in yoghurt gravy) 1 ruangan chaman (paneer in tomato gravy) 1 gur gur cha (butter tea) 1 Gurdwara Chati Patshahi 1 H haakh (Kashmiri spinach) 1 haakh te maaz (mutton with spinach) 1 haakh te nadir (spinach with lotus root) 1 haddock: gaad te haakh (fish cooked with spinach) 1 hadiwala marchwagan korma (red hot meat curry) 1 haembe te nadir (French beans with lotus root) 1 halwa (semolina pudding with nuts) 1 Hari Parbat 1 harissa (lamb harissa) 1 honey: kahwa (Kashmiri spiced honey tea) 1 J jam: chulli jam (apricot jam) 1 Jama Masjid Mosque 1 K kahwa (Kashmiri spiced honey tea) 1, 2, 3 kaleji tchokh charvan (spicy liver) 1 kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 kanaguchhi yakhni (morels in spicy yoghurt gravy) 1 Kashmir 1 Kashmiri kander/girda (naan or flatbread) 1 Kashmiri kulcha (sweet spicy bread roll) 1 KEBABS shammi kebab (minced lamb patties) 1 sheekh kebab (skewered lamb kebabs) 1 khagla (cow’s-milk butter) 1 khambir (fermented wheat bread) 1, 2 khubani (dried apricots) 1 KOHLRABI monj aachar (kohlrabi pickle) 1 monj haakh (Kashmiri kohlrabi) 1 kokur masala (chicken masala) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 kong kokur (saffron chicken) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 KORMA alu bukara korma (lamb with dried plums) 1 hadiwala marchwagan korma (red hot meat curry) 1 L Ladakh 1–2, 3–4, 5–6 Ladakhi achar (cabbage & carrot pickle) 1, 2 lama pakthuk (noodle soup) 1 LAMB alu bukara korma (lamb with dried plums) 1 chutagi (pasta with vegetables) 1 dodhe maaz/abb gosht (lamb cooked in milk) 1 ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 hadiwala marchwagan korma (red hot meat curry) 1 harissa (lamb harissa) 1 kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 matz chhiear (meatballs stuffed with apricots) 1 Muslim rogan josh (rogan josh) 1 rista (meatballs in red sauce) 1 shammi kebab (minced lamb patties) 1 sheekh kebab (skewered lamb kebabs) 1 tabakh maaz (fried ribs) 1 yarkhandi pulao (rice with carrots, fruit and meat) 1, 2 lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 Leh 1–2, 3, 4–5 liver: kaleji tchokh charvan (spicy liver) 1 loko-mokmok with sha-phing (buns) 1 LOTUS ROOT haakh te nadir (spinach with lotus root) 1 haembe te nadir(French beans with lotus root) 1 nadir monj (fried lotus root) 1 nadir yakhni (lotus root in yoghurt gravy) 1 M maize flour: makai tchot (maize flour flatbread) 1 makai tchot (maize flour flatbread) 1 Makhdoom Sahib’s shrine 1 masala: kokur masala (chicken masala) 1 matz chhiear (meatballs stuffed with apricots) 1 MEATBALLS ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 matz chhiear (meatballs stuffed with apricots) 1 rista (meatballs in red sauce) 1 meethi maaz (Kashmiri offal delicacy) 1 MILK chaman (homemade paneer) 1 dahi (homemade yoghurt) 1 dodhe maaz/abb gosht (lamb cooked in milk) 1 gur gur cha (butter tea) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 rooh afza (rose syrup drink) 1 mint 1 modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 momos (dumplings) 1 monj aachar (kohlrabi pickle) 1 monj haakh (Kashmiri kohlrabi) 1 MOREL MUSHROOMS kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 kanaguchhi yakhni (morels in spicy yoghurt gravy) 1 muj doud dar (radish raita) 1 muji gaad (sea bass with turnips) 1 MUSHROOMS kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 kanaguchhi yakhni (morels in spicy yoghurt gravy) 1 Muslim rogan josh (rogan josh) 1 MUTTON ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 haakh te maaz (mutton with spinach) 1 N naan bread: Kashmiri kander/girda (naan or flatbread) 1 naat yakkhn (goat cooked in yoghurt) 1 nadir monj (fried lotus root) 1 nadir yakhni (lotus root in yoghurt gravy) 1 Nazki, Roohi 1–2 nettles: zathuk (stinging nettle soup) 1, 2 NOODLES lama pakthuk (noodle soup) 1 thukpa (noodle soup) 1 NUTS doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 halwa (semolina pudding with nuts) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 O offal: meethi maaz (Kashmiri offal delicacy) 1 P paba with tangtur (roasted flour bread with spiced buttermilk) 1 Pahalgam 1–2 pakoras: wangun pakore (aubergine pakoras) 1 paktsa marku (dumplings) 1 Pampore 1 pancakes: tain tain with walnut chutney (buckwheat pancakes with walnut chutney) 1 PANEER chaman (homemade paneer) 1 chaman kaliya (paneer in yellow gravy) 1 ruangan chaman (paneer in tomato gravy) 1 Pangong Lake 1–2 PASTA chutagi (pasta with vegetables) 1, 2 skyu (pasta with broth) 1, 2 pastry: bakarkhani (sweet puff pastry biscuits) 1 patties: shammi kebab (minced lamb patties) 1 phari 1 PICKLES. SEE ALSO CHUTNEY; RELISHES chhiear aachar (apricot pickle) 1 Ladakhi achar (cabbage & carrot pickle) 1, 2 monj aachar (kohlrabi pickle) 1 plums: alu bukara korma (lamb with dried plums) 1 POTATOES dum oluv (whole potatoes in spicy red gravy) 1 fried trout (whole fried trout with spicy potato chips) 1 praan paste (shallot paste) 1 PUMPKIN aal posh (spicy pumpkin) 1 dodh aal (pumpkin relish) 1 pumpkin flowers: aal posh mond (fried pumpkin or courgette flowers) 1 Q QUINCES bom choonth (quince in a tangy sauce) 1 bom choonth te wangun (quince with aubergines) 1 gaad choonth (fish cooked with quince or green apples) 1 R RADISHES lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 muj doud dar (radish raita) 1 raita: muj doud dar (radish raita) 1 razmah (red kidney beans) 1 red kidney beans: razmah (red kidney beans) 1 RELISHES. SEE ALSO CHUTNEY; PICKLES dodh aal (pumpkin relish) 1 gand chetin (shallot relish) 1 ribs: tabakh maaz (fried ribs) 1 RICE batha (steamed/boiled rice) 1 modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 taher (yellow rice) 1 yarkhandi pulao (rice with carrots, fruit and meat) 1, 2 rista (meatballs in red sauce) 1 rogan josh: Muslim rogan josh (rogan josh) 1 rolls: Kashmiri kulcha (sweet spicy bread roll) 1 rooh afza (rose syrup drink) 1 rose syrup: rooh afza (rose syrup drink) 1 ruangan chaman (paneer in tomato gravy) 1 S SAFFRON 1, 2–3, 4 halwa (semolina pudding with nuts) 1 kahwa (Kashmiri spiced honey tea) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 kong kokur (saffron chicken) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 modur pulao (saffron pilau) 1 Muslim rogan josh (rogan josh) 1 rista (meatballs in red sauce) 1 Sangam 1 sardines: gaad fry (fried whitebait or sardines) 1 SAUCES. SEE ALSO GRAVIES bom choonth (quince in a tangy sauce) 1 sea bass: muji gaad (sea bass with turnips) 1 SEMOLINA halwa (semolina pudding with nuts) 1 kong phirni (saffron-flavoured semolina) 1 shaker pare (sweet deep-fried snacks) 1 SHALLOTS gand chetin (shallot relish) 1 harissa (lamb harissa) 1 praan paste (shallot paste) 1 ver masala (spice cake with garlic and shallots) 1 shammi kebab (minced lamb patties) 1 Sharika Devi Temple 1 sheekh kebab (skewered lamb kebabs) 1 sheer/noon chai (pink salty tea) 1 skyu (pasta with broth) 1, 2 SOUP lama pakthuk (noodle soup) 1 skyu (pasta with broth) 1, 2 thukpa (noodle soup) 1 zathuk (stinging nettle soup) 1, 2 SPICES 1–2 ver masala (spice cake with garlic and shallots) 1 SPINACH gaad te haakh (fish cooked with spinach) 1 haakh (Kashmiri spinach) 1 haakh te maaz (mutton with spinach) 1 haakh te nadir (spinach with lotus root) 1 split peas: lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 SQUASH aal posh (spicy pumpkin) 1 aal yakhni (lauki) (bottle gourd/summer squash cooked in yoghurt) 1 dodh aal (pumpkin relish) 1 Srinagar 1–2, 3–4, 5–6, 7 sultanas: zirish chetin (blackcurrant chutney) 1 T tabakh maaz (fried ribs) 1 taher (yellow rice) 1 tain tain with walnut chutney (buckwheat pancakes with walnut chutney) 1 tamatar te wangun (aubergines cooked with tomatoes) 1 tangtur (yoghurt dip) 1 TEA chai 1–2 gur gur cha (butter tea) 1 kahwa (Kashmiri spiced honey tea) 1, 2, 3 sheer/noon chai (pink salty tea) 1 thalis 1 thangnyer (chutney) 1 thukpa (noodle soup) 1 tingmo (steamed bread) 1 TOMATOES gaad te tamatar (fish in tomato gravy) 1 ruangan chaman (paneer in tomato gravy) 1 tamatar te wangun (aubergines cooked with tomatoes) 1 TROUT fried trout (whole fried trout with spicy potato chips) 1 gaad choonth (fish cooked with quince or green apples) 1 gaad te tamatar (fish in tomato gravy) 1 tsong thaltak (wholewheat onion biscuit-bread) 1 Tulip Garden 1 TURMERIC 1 taher (yellow rice) 1 TURNIPS gogji (turnip curry) 1 muji gaad (sea bass with turnips) 1 V Vaisakhi 1 Vakil, Wafa 1–2 VEGETABLES chutagi (pasta with vegetables) 1, 2 Ladakhi achar (cabbage & carrot pickle) 1 lama pakthuk (noodle soup) 1 momos (dumplings) 1 paba with tangtur (roasted flour bread with spiced buttermilk) 1 skyu (pasta with broth) 1, 2 thukpa (noodle soup) 1 vegetable chatni (vegetables & chillies) 1 ver masala (spice cake) 1, 2 W WALNUTS doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 tain tain with walnut chutney (buckwheat pancakes with walnut chutney) 1 Wangchuk, Sonam 1 wangun pakore (aubergine pakoras) 1 wangun yakhni (fried aubergines in yoghurt) 1 wazwam 1–2, 3, 4 whitebait: gaad fry (fried whitebait or sardines) 1 Wular Lake 1–2 Y yakhni: kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 yarkhandi pulao (rice with carrots, fruit and meat) 1, 2 YOGHURT aal posh (spicy pumpkin) 1 aal yakhni (lauki) (bottle gourd/summer squash cooked in yoghurt) 1 dahi (homemade yoghurt) 1 dodh aal (pumpkin relish) 1 doon chetin (walnut chutney) 1 ghushtaba (pounded mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy) 1 kanaguchhi gosht (lamb and morel yakhni) 1 kanaguchhi yakhni (morels in spicy yoghurt gravy) 1 kokur yakhni (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy) 1 lavasa masala tchot (flatbreads stuffed with split pea mash and chutney) 1 muj doud dar (radish raita) 1 naat yakkhn (goat cooked in yoghurt) 1 nadir yakhni (lotus root in yoghurt gravy) 1 tangtur (yoghurt dip) 1 wangun yakhni(fried aubergines in yoghurt) 1 Z zathuk (stinging nettle soup) 1, 2 zirish chetin (blackcurrant chutney) "In On The Himalayan Trail Indian food writer and chef, Romy Gill, tells the story of Kashmir and Ladakh's unique and tantalising cuisine sharing over 80 extraordinary recipes that can be recreated in your own home kitchen. With everything from Shammi Kebabs (minced lamb patties) to Wagen Pakora (deep fried aubergine in gram flour) for Nashta (starters) succulent meat curries like the Kashmiri Rogan Josh or Gustaba (lamb meatballs cooked in a yoghurt gravy); to aromatic vegetable dishes such as the Kanguch yakhni (morels cooked in spicy gravy): these recipes shines a light on the magnificent, little-known cuisine of Kashmir and Leh, celebrating its land, its ingredients and its heritage. Kashmiri cuisine is one of the most delectable cuisines in India. Heavily influenced by Mughal, Persian, Afghan and Central Asian styles of cooking, it offers up a diverse range of dishes, displaying and revelling in a fusion of flavours and influences. Increasingly difficult to access due to the political uncertainty in the region, it's more important than ever to share and preserve Kashmir's secrets and traditional methods of cooking. Set to the backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas, with stunning travel photography throughout, this first-of-its-kind book, offers an intimate window into the life and the history of the Kashmiri and Ladakhi people, and why food is at the heart of this incredible place."--OverDrive "The heart and soul of beautiful Kashmir is in every single recipe. Simply stunning." – Gordon RamsayIn On The Himalayan Trail Indian food writer and chef, Romy Gill, tells the story of Kashmir and Ladakh's unique and tantalizing cuisine sharing over 80 extraordinary recipes that can be recreated in your own home kitchen.With everything from Shammi Kebabs (minced lamb patties) to Wagen Pakora (deep fried aubergine in gram flour) for Nashta (starters) succulent meat curries like the Kashmiri Rogan Josh or Gustaba (lamb meatballs cooked in a yoghurt gravy); to aromatic vegetable dishes such as the Kanguch yakhni (morels cooked in spicy gravy): these recipes shines a light on the magnificent, little-known cuisine of Kashmir and Leh, celebrating its land, its ingredients and its heritage.Kashmiri cuisine is one of the most delectable cuisines in India. Heavily influenced by Mughal, Persian, Afghan and Central Asian styles of cooking, it offers up a diverse range of dishes, displaying and reveling in a fusion of flavors and influences. Increasingly difficult to access due to the political uncertainty in the region, it's more important than ever to share and preserve Kashmir's secrets and traditional methods of cooking.