Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering (Paperback))

The main objective of the book is to describe from a deterministic point of view the sediment transport in the general wave-current situation. For this purpose, the book is divided into two major parts. The first part of the book is related to flow and turbulence in combined wave-current. This part covers the turbulent wave boundary layer, bed friction in combined wave-current motion, turbulence in the surf zone, and wave-driven currents in the long- and cross-shore direction. The second part treats the sediment transport as a result of the wave-current action. This part includes an introduction to basic sediment transport concepts, distribution of suspended sediment in the sheet flow regime, description of bedforms formed by current and waves, and their influence on sediment transport pattern. Finally, the modelling of cross- and long-shore sediment transport is described. This book is useful for students with a background in basic hydrodynamics. List Of Symbols -- 1. Basic Concepts Of Potential Wave Theory. 1.1. Waves Propagating Over A Horizontal Bottom. 1.2. Wave Energy. 1.3. Radiation Stresses. 1.4. Irregular Waves -- 2. Wave Boundary Layers. 2.2. The Momentum Integral Method For The Turbulent Wave Boundary Layer. 2.3. Detailed Modelling Of The Wave Boundary Layer. 2.4. Streaming. 2.5. Energy Dissipation In The Wave Boundary Layer -- 3. Bed Friction And Turbulence In Wave-current Motion. 3.1. Simple Considerations On Changes In The Shape Of The Velocity Profile And Increase In Bed Shear Stress. 3.2. The Integrated Momentum Method Applied To Combined Wave-current Motion. 3.3. Refined Modelling Of The Wave-current Motion -- 4. Waves In The Surf Zone. 4.1. Wave-breaking. 4.2. Modelling Of Variation Of Wave Height And Water Level In The Surf Zone. 4.3. Turbulence In The Surf Zone -- 5. Wave-driven Currents. 5.1. The Longshore Current. 5.2. Further Developments Of Longshore Current Models. 5.3. Wave-driven Currents On A Non-uniform Beach Profile. 5.4. Low Frequency Oscillations -- 6. Current Velocity Distribution In The Surf Zone. 6.1. Normally Incident Waves, Shear Stress Distribution. 6.2. Normally Incident Waves, The Undertow -- 7. Basic Concepts Of Sediment Transport. 7.1. Transport Modes. 7.2. Sediment Properties. 7.3. Critical Bed Shear Stress. 7.4. Bed Load Transportation -- 8. Vertical Distribution Of Suspended Sediment In Waves And Current Over A Plan Bed. 8.1. Vertical Distribution Of Suspended Sediment In A Steady Current. 8.2. Distribution Of Suspended Sediment In Pure Oscillatory Flow. 8.3. Vertical Distribution Of Suspended Sediment In Combined Wave-current Motion. 8.4. Vertical Distribution Of Suspended Sediment Under Broken Waves -- 9. Current-generated Bed Waves. 9.1. Bed Waves In Current Alone. 9.2. Mechanics Of Dunes In A Steady Current. 9.3. Influence Of Waves On Current-generated Sand Waves. 9.4. Flow Resistance Due To Bed Waves In A Current. 10. Wave-generated Bed Form. 10.2. A Simple Model For Vortex Ripples. 10.3. Distribution Of Suspended Sediment Over Vortex Ripples -- 11. Cross-shore Sediment Transport And Coastal Profile Development. 11.1. Cross-shore Sediment Transport. 11.2. Development Of Coastal Profile -- 12. Longshore Sediment Transport And Coastline Development. 12.1. Longshore Sediment Transport. 12.2. Modelling Of Coastline Development -- Appendix I. Wave Table: Sinusoidal Waves -- Appendix Ii. Derivation Of The K-equation -- Appendix Iii. Additional References. Jørgen Fredsøe And Rolf Deigaard. Includes Bibliographical References And Index. This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required.The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The second part covers sediment transport and morphological development.The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development of coastal profiles and coastlines. Aiming to describe from a deterministic point of view the sediment transport in the general wave-current situation, the book is divided into two parts, the first treating flow and turbulence in combined wave-current, the second the sediment transport as a result of the wave-current action.