Leather and Footwear Sustainability: Manufacturing, Supply Chain, and Product Level Issues (Textile Science and Clothing Technology)

This book examines the manufacturing, supply chain and product-level sustainability of leather and footwear products. This book deals with the environmental and chemical sustainability aspects pertaining to the tanning supply chain and the related mitigation measures. The book also explores interesting areas of leather and footwear sustainability, such as waste & the 3R’s and their certification for sustainability. At the product level, the book covers advanced topics like the circular economy and blockchain technology for leather and footwear products and addresses innovation development and eco-material use in footwear by investigating environmental sustainability and the use of bacterial cellulose, a potential sustainable alternative for footwear and leather products. Contents 7 About the Editor 9 Environmental and Chemical Issues in Tanneries and Their Mitigation Measures 10 1 Introduction 10 2 Overview of Tannery Wastewater 11 3 Process Involved in Tanneries 13 4 Environmental and Chemical Concerns of Different Tannery Process 14 5 Mitigation Measures Followed by the Tanneries 16 6 Green Technology 18 7 Conclusion 18 References 19 Leather in the Age of Sustainability: A Norm or Merely a Cherry on Top? 20 1 Introduction 20 2 Methodology 21 3 Background 22 3.1 Animal-Based Versus Non-animal-based “Leather” 22 4 Production Procedure and Supplier Norms in the Leather Industry 24 5 Greener Paradigms for Sustainability from Manufacturer/Brand Perspective 24 6 Interview with a Leather Manufacturer 26 7 Environmental Assessments and Tests 27 8 Decision-Making Factors by Consumers 28 9 Discussion 30 References 30 Blockchain Technology in Footwear Supply Chain 32 1 Introduction 33 1.1 Background 33 1.2 Available Technologies and Tools 34 1.3 Comparison Among Different Technologies 37 2 Objective and Method 40 2.1 Objective 40 2.2 Method 40 3 Footwear Industry Mapping 41 3.1 Footwear Industry Overview 41 3.2 Footwear Production 43 3.3 The Footwear Supply Chain 43 3.4 Challenges Throughout Supply Chain 44 3.5 Supplier Relationship Management 46 4 Blockchain 46 4.1 What Is Blockchain 46 4.2 Key Terms (IOT/Ledger/Smart Contract/Proof of Work) 47 4.3 Blockchain Frameworks and Services 48 5 The Benefits and Gains from Adoption 49 5.1 TOWS Matrix 49 5.2 Threats, Opportunity, Weakness, Strength 50 5.3 Gains from the Adoption 52 6 Strategic Position in the Market 54 6.1 Disruptive Technology (Potential of the Blockchain) 55 6.2 Diffusion Theories 56 6.3 Position of the Company 58 7 Application Area and Cases Analysis 58 7.1 Application Area 58 7.2 Cases Analysis 58 7.3 Everledger 59 8 Barriers and Potentials 60 8.1 Barriers 60 8.2 Potentials 61 9 Conclusion 61 Appendix 62 References 63 Designer Activism Strategies for Sustainable Leather Product Designs 66 1 Introduction 66 2 Leather Product Usage in History and Contemporary Age 67 2.1 Leather Product Usage in History 67 2.2 Leather Product Usage in Modern Era and Contemporary Age 68 3 Leather Properties 69 3.1 Leather Properties from the Perspective of Product Design Characteristics 69 3.2 Leather Properties by Source Types 70 4 Leather Processing Trends 71 4.1 Impact of Leather Processing 73 4.2 Breakdown of the Assessment Methodologies 74 5 Strategies for Producing Environment-Friendly Leather 75 5.1 Development of New Conceptual Framework for Design and Key Performance Indicators for Ensuring Sustainable Practices 77 5.2 Advocating Reuse of Waste and Second Life Product Strategies 78 5.3 Co-design 83 5.4 Developing New Material Alternatives 84 5.5 Adopting New Technologies 91 6 Conclusion 91 References 92 Bacterial Cellulose—A Sustainable Alternative Material for Footwear and Leather Products 99 1 Introduction 100 2 Synthetic and Bioleather Alternatives 105 3 Bacterial Cellulose—A Potential Substitute 106 4 Carbon Sources for Bacterial Cellulose 107 5 Production Process 112 6 Bacterial Cellulose as a Leather Alternative 114 7 Challenges and Future Prospective 124 8 Summary 124 References 125 The Chromium Recovery and Reuse from Tanneries: A Case Study According to the Principles of Circular Economy 130 1 Introduction 131 2 Short Description of the Tanning Procedure 132 2.1 Pre-treatment 133 2.2 Tanning 134 2.3 Post-tanning 135 3 Major Environmental Impacts of the Tanning Process 135 3.1 Water Consumption 136 3.2 Energy Consumption 136 3.3 Waste 137 4 Waste Management 140 4.1 The Good Housekeeping Concept 140 4.2 Gaseous Emissions 140 4.3 Wastewater Treatment 141 4.4 Solid Waste Treatment 144 4.5 Legislation 144 5 Chemistry of Chromium 145 5.1 Reagent Production 146 5.2 Use of Cr(III) Salts in Tanning Baths 147 5.3 Tannery Wastewater 148 5.4 Tannery Sludge 148 5.5 Environmental Fate After Waste Landfilling 148 6 Chromium Recovery 149 6.1 From Wastewaters Through the Application of Different Technologies 149 6.2 From Tannery Sludge via the Application of Different Technologies 154 7 Conclusions 159 References 159 Conviviality in Leather and Fashion Entrepreneurial Communities: Emerging Results from an Exploratory Research 165 1 Introduction 165 2 Literature Overview 166 3 Research Methodologies and Objectives 171 4 Main Results 173 5 Discussion 177 6 Limitation and Conclusions 183 References 184 Certifications for Sustainability in Footwear and Leather Sectors 187 1 Introduction 187 2 Certification for Sustainability 188 2.1 Bluesign 188 2.2 Content Claim Standard (CCS) 189 2.3 Cradle to Cradle 189 2.4 Fairtrade Certification 191 2.5 Global Recycle Standard (GRS) 192 2.6 GOTS Certification 192 2.7 Oeko-Tex 193 2.8 Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) 194 2.9 SA8000 Certification 195 2.10 Sustainable Fair Trade Management System (SFTMS) 196 2.11 Higg Index 196 2.12 Source Map 197 2.13 Internationale Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft (IVN) Natural Leather Standard 197 2.14 Leather Working Group (LWG) 198 2.15 National Science Foundation (NSF) 198 2.16 Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) 199 3 Case Study 200 4 Conclusion 202 References 202 Brazilian Sustainability Outlook in Footwear Sector 204 1 Introduction 205 2 Panorama of Brazilian Footwear Industry 207 2.1 A Brief History of the Brazilian Shoe Industry 207 2.2 Manufacturing Clusters 208 2.3 Production Data 209 2.4 Brazilian Certification of Footwear—“Sustainable Origin”: A Safety to Exported Products 210 3 Materials and Processes Currently in Brazilian Footwear Production 211 3.1 Brazilian Leather Production (Bovine, Caprine, Fish, Etc.) 211 3.2 Main Shoe’s Components 215 3.3 Shoe Uppers 216 3.4 Sole (Outsole, Insole and Midsole) 217 3.5 Heels and Others (Midsole, Buttress, Toecap, Lining, Etc.) 219 4 Environmental Solutions in Waste Management and Prevention in Shoe Manufacturing 220 5 Sustainable Materials and Processes in Brazilian Footwear 224 5.1 The Usage of Amazon Latex in Shoes 224 5.2 Natural Fibers Employment 227 5.3 Leather Tanning Employing Vegetal Extracts 229 5.4 Natural Leather Dyeing 232 5.5 Synthetic Materials 237 5.6 The Case of Vegan Plastic Laminate Coverings 241 6 Eco- and Sustainable Design in Brazilian Footwear 242 6.1 Concepts of Eco- and Sustainable Design in Footwear 242 6.2 Brazilian Ecodesign in Footwear 244 7 Sustainable Brazilian Footwear Components 246 7.1 Recent Initiatives of Recycled Footwear Raw Materials 246 8 Market and Design of Sustainable Brazilian Shoes 249 8.1 The Growth of the Brazilian Sustainable Fashion Market 249 8.2 Sustainable Product Design Solutions: Small and Micro-Footwear Companies 250 9 Conclusion 254 References 256 Waste and 3R’s in Footwear and Leather Sectors 266 1 Introduction 266 2 Leather Industry Waste Management 271 2.1 Raw Hide Waste Composition 272 2.2 Tanned Leather Waste 273 2.3 Sludge from Wastewater 273 2.4 Gases and Odours 274 3 Waste from the Footwear Manufacturing Industry 275 4 Waste Management in the Footwear Sector 277 5 Standard Practices for Leather and Footwear Waste Disposal 279 5.1 Landfill Disposal 279 5.2 Vermicomposting 281 5.3 Anaerobic Digestion 282 5.4 Thermal Incineration 282 5.5 Pyrolysis and Gasification 283 6 The Waste Management Hierarchy and the 3 R’s 283 6.1 Reduction 284 6.2 Reuse 286 6.3 Recycle 287 7 Conclusion 293 References 294 Front Matter ....Pages i-ix Environmental and Chemical Issues in Tanneries and Their Mitigation Measures (P. Senthil Kumar, G. Janet Joshiba)....Pages 1-10 Leather in the Age of Sustainability: A Norm or Merely a Cherry on Top? (Mukta Ramchandani, Ivan Coste-Maniere)....Pages 11-22 Blockchain Technology in Footwear Supply Chain (Hao Cui, Karen K. Leonas)....Pages 23-56 Designer Activism Strategies for Sustainable Leather Product Designs (V. Nithyaprakash, S. Niveathitha, V. Shanmugapriya)....Pages 57-89 Bacterial Cellulose—A Sustainable Alternative Material for Footwear and Leather Products (R. Rathinamoorthy, T. Kiruba)....Pages 91-121 The Chromium Recovery and Reuse from Tanneries: A Case Study According to the Principles of Circular Economy (Evgenios Kokkinos, Anastasios I. Zouboulis)....Pages 123-157 Conviviality in Leather and Fashion Entrepreneurial Communities: Emerging Results from an Exploratory Research (Simone Guercini, Silvia Ranfagni)....Pages 159-180 Certifications for Sustainability in Footwear and Leather Sectors (P. Senthil Kumar, C. Femina Carolin)....Pages 181-197 Brazilian Sustainability Outlook in Footwear Sector (Lais Kohan, Cristiane Reis Martins, Heloisa Nazare dos Santos, Palloma Renny Beserra Fernandes, Fernando Brandao, Julia Baruque-Ramos)....Pages 199-260 Waste and 3R’s in Footwear and Leather Sectors (Nilesh C. Jadhav, Akshay C. Jadhav)....Pages 261-293