Land of Eagles : Riding Through Europe's Forgotten Country

Determined To Discover The Albanian That Lies Behind So Many Stereotypes And Preconceptions, Robin Hanbury-tenison And His Wife Louella Crossed The Country On Horseback, From Theth In The North To The Border With Greece In The South. In The Footsteps Of Byron, Edward Lear And Edith Durham They Crossed Some Of The Most Wild And Arrestingly Beautiful Landscapes In Europe. Through Soaring Mountain Ranges And Hidden Valleys They Lived Simply; Staying In The Homes Of Communities Completely Untouched By The 21st Century And In Towns Bursting With Artistic Creativity. Land Of Eagles Is The Story Of A Lyrical And Dramatic Journey, Peppered With Adventure And Mishap, Discovery And Unexpected Encounters. Adorned With The History, Legends And Literature Of Albania And With The Tales Of Past Travellers, It Is A Luminous Portrait Of This Mysterious And Eccentric Country, Which Has For Too Long Been Forgotten By Europe.--publisher's Description. Part I: Durham Country -- The Shala Valley I: Preparations -- The Shala Valley Ii: Arrival -- The First Pass -- Serbian Interlude -- Blood Feuds -- Part Ii: Guerilla Country -- New Horses, New Crew -- Into The Heartland -- Into The Lura National Park -- Hard Times In The Hills -- Mules, Mountains And Dropping Zones -- Part Iii: Lear Country -- Across The Via Egnatia Frashër -- Echoes Of Albania's Past -- Stirrings Of Independence -- Part Iv: Byron Country -- Childe Harold Rode Here -- Sporting Brits And Cruel Pashas -- Epilogue Robin Hanbury-tenison. Includes Bibliographical References And Index. Albania is the least-known and least developed country in Europe. It has a long, rich and troubled past, characterised by unrest and isolationism. Today, very little is known of its people - beyond those who have emigrated to other countries in Europe - and its landscapes have remained virtually untravelled for centuries. Determined to discover the country behind the stereotypes and preconceptions, Robin Hanbury-Tenison and his wife Louella rode across Albania, from Thethi in the north to the border with Greece in the south. Following in the footsteps of Byron, Edward Lear and Edith Durham they crossed some of the wildest and arrestingly beautiful landscape in Europe. Through soaring mountain ranges and hidden valleys dotted with Illyrian, Roman and Byzantine ruins, they lived simply, staying in the homes of communities untouched by the 21st century and in towns bursting with artistic creativity. They discovered an ancient land, proud and fiercely independent, struggling to emerge from the darkness of repression and poverty and from the shadows of its more popular neighbours.Land of Eagles is the story of a lyrical and dramatic journey, peppered with adventure, mishap, discovery and unexpected encounters. Adorned with the history, legends and literature of Albania and with the tales of past travellers, it is a luminous portrait of this mysterious and eccentric country, which has for too long been forgotten by Europe. Cover ......Page 1 Contents......Page 6 Map......Page 3 List of Illustrations......Page 8 Acknowledgements......Page 10 Albanian Proverbs......Page 12 From Childe Harold'd Pilgrimage by Lord Byron......Page 14 Author's Note on Albania/Shqiperia......Page 18 Introduction......Page 20 Part I Durham Country......Page 26 1. The Shala Valley I: Preparations......Page 28 2. The Shala Valley II: Arrival......Page 38 3. The First Pass......Page 52 4. Serbian Interlude......Page 64 5. Blood-feuds......Page 74 Part II Guerilla Country......Page 88 6. New Horses, New Crew......Page 90 7. Into the Heartland......Page 96 8. Through Lura National Park......Page 106 9. Hard Times in the Hills......Page 114 10. Mules, Mountains and Dropping Zones......Page 128 Part III Lear Country......Page 153 11. Across the Via Egnatia......Page 154 12. Echoes of Albania's Past......Page 168 13. Stirrings of Indipendence......Page 178 Part IV Byron Country......Page 190 14. Childe Harold Rode Here......Page 192 15. Sporting Brits and Cruel Pashas......Page 214 Epilogue......Page 224 Select Bibliography......Page 228 Index......Page 232 Featuring the history, legends and literature of Albania and with the tales of past travellers, this book presents a portrait of this mysterious and eccentric country.