Inventing the Pizzeria : A History of Pizza Making in Naples

"Pizza is one of the best-known and widely exported Italian foods and yet relatively little is known about its origins in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Myths such as the naming of pizza margherita after the Italian queen abound, but little serious scholarly attention has been devoted to the topic. Eschewing exaggerated fables, this book draws a detailed portrait of the difficulties experienced by the then marginalized class of pizza makers, rather than the ultimate success of their descendants. It provides a unique exploration of the history of pizza making in Naples, offering an archival-based history of the early story of pizza and the establishment of the pizzeria. Touching upon issues of politics, economics and sociology, Inventing the Pizzeria contributes not only to the commercial, social and food history of Italy but also provides an urban history of a major European city, told through one of its most famous edible exports. Originally published in Italian, this English edition is updated with a revised introduction and conclusion, a new preface and additional images and sources."-- Provided by publisher FC Half title Title Copyright Dedication Contents List of illustrations List of tables Acknowledgments Foreword Editor’s Introduction Author’s Preface 1 The origins of pizza and the pizzeria Why Naples? “Pizza”: The origins and meanings of the word The history of pizza through dictionaries and written accounts After the unification of Italy 2 Censuses and statistics: Pizzaioli in their social context The first documents Pizzerias in Naples in 1807 The Expansion of the 1800s Pizzaioli in statistics and censuses The social status of the pizzaiolo Pizza hawkers and “oggi a otto” Pizzaiole 3 Licenses and the law Ordinances and police regulations Skirmishes between shopkeepers and police Licenses, inspections, and rules 4 Inside the pizzeria and behind the counter Pizzaioli between cops and owners Real estate income Fires Descriptions of pizzerias Pizzerias and trattorias Restaurateurs and trattorias Water and pizzas: Wells and aqueducts 5 Uncertainty and continuity in hard times Structural difficulties Heredity of the profession and intrafamily continuity Individual persistence Giving up 6 The distribution of pizzerias across the city Political and urban shake-ups The Bourbon period After unification Everyday work in the pizzeria 7 Historic pizzerias The oldest pizzerias Port’Alba and Largo della Carità Sant’Anna di Palazzo Other nineteenth-century pizzerias 8 A family affair Problems with documentation The Lombardis: A voyage between Naples and New York The mystery of the Pace family: 1800s or 1900s? The saga of the Mattozzis Conclusion: Yesterday’s pizza, today’s pizza From antiquity to the eighteenth century Genuine Neapolitan pizza Ingredients and preparation The twentieth century in Naples ... ... and beyond Sources—Neapolitan pizzerias in the 1800s (bourbon period) Sources—Neapolitan pizzerias from 1860 to 1901 Sources—Neapolitan pizzerias cited in commercial guides from 1880, 1881, 1886, 1888, and 1900 Notes Bibliography Index Pizza Is One Of The Best-known And Widely Exported Italian Foods And Yet Relatively Little Is Known About Its Origins In The Late 18th And Early 19th Centuries. Myths Such As The Naming Of Pizza Margherita After The Italian Queen Abound And Yet Little Serious Scholarly Attention Has Been Devoted To The Topic. Eschewing Exaggerated Fables, This Book Draws A Detailed Portrait Of The Difficulties Experienced By The Then Marginalized Class Of Pizza Makers, Rather Than The Ultimate Success Of Their Descendants. It Provides A Unique Exploration Of The History Of Pizza Making In Naples, Offering An Archival-based History Of The Early Story Of Pizza And The Establishment Of The Pizzeria. Touching Upon Issues Of Politics, Economics And Sociology, Inventing The Pizzeria Contributes Not Only To The Commercial, Social And Food History Of Italy But Also Provides An Urban History Of A Major European City, Told Through One Of Its Most Famous Edible Exports. The Origins Of Pizza And The Pizzeria -- Censuses And Statistics: Pizzaioli In Their Social Context -- Licenses And The Law -- Inside The Pizzeria And Behind The Counter -- Uncertainty And Continuity In Hard Times -- The Distribution Of Pizzerias Across The City -- Historic Pizzerias -- A Family Affair. By Antonio Mattozzi ; Edited And Translated By Zachary Nowak ; Illustrations Edited By Donatella Mattozzi. Translated From The Italian. Ncludes Bibliographical References (pages 151-153) And Index. "Pizza is one of the best-known and widely exported Italian foods and yet relatively little is known about its origins in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Myths such as the naming of pizza margherita after the Italian queen abound and yet little serious scholarly attention has been devoted to the topic. Eschewing exaggerated fables, this book draws a detailed portrait of the difficulties experienced by the then marginalized class of pizza makers, rather than the ultimate success of their descendants. It provides a unique exploration of the history of pizza making in Naples, offering an archival-based history of the early story of pizza and the establishment of the pizzeria. Touching upon issues of politics, economics and sociology, Inventing the Pizzeria contributes not only to the commercial, social and food history of Italy but also provides an urban history of a major European city, told through one of its most famous edible exports."--Page 4 de la couverture