How To Start Sewing: The How and Why of Sewing for Fashion Design: Sewing Techniques with Matching Patterns

Chapter 1 An Introduction to Sewing Clothing The Basic Process Design, Pattern, Cut and Sew Chapter 2 The Basic Process of Hand Sewing What Is Sewing? The Anatomy of a Needle The Basic Process of Hand Sewing What Is a Stitch? What Are Stitching Lines? Elements of Neat Stitching Correct Fabric / Thread / Needle Combination Correct Support for the Fabric Securing the Thread in the Fabric Trimming the Excess Thread What Is Tension? Chapter 3 : Equipment and Materials List Hand Sewing Buying Sewing Equipment Buying Fabric Fabric Swatches Remnants Basic Fabric Thread Needle Threader Small Sewing Scissors or Thread Snips Fabric Shears When to Buy New Shears Pins Chapter 4 Basic Hand Sewing Exercises Exercise 4.01 : Hand Sewing Preparation Exercise 4.02 : Basting (with Large Backstitches) Exercise 4.03 : Running Stitch (with Thread Knots) Chapter 5 Seams and Seam Allowance Joining Fabric to Make Garments What Is a Seam? What Is Seam Allowance (SA)? What Is a Seam Finish? How Much Space is Provided as Seam Allowance? Concentrate on Stitching Line Seam Allowance Value Chapter 6 : Equipment and Materials List Measure, Mark and Press Tape Measure Ruler Tailor’s Chalk Chalk Pencils Iron and Ironing Board Chapter 7 Hand Sewing a Seam Exercise 7.01 : Sewing Preparation with Chalk and Pins Exercise 7.02 : Backstitch (with Small Backstitches) Exercise 7.03 : Basic Seam Pressing Chapter 8 How a Sewing Machine Works Upper Thread and Bobbin Thread How a Stitch Is Formed Take-Up Arm Thread Guides and Tension Controls Feed Dog Presser Foot The Stitch Cycle Chapter 9 Choosing a Sewing Machine Some Points to Consider Before You Buy Different Types of Machines for Different Types of Sewers Basic Overview of Domestic and Industrial Sewing Machines Domestic Sewing Machines Industrial Sewing Machines What If You Already Have a Sewing Machine? Chapter 10 Overview of a Domestic Sewing Machine Domestic Sewing Machine Features Buying a Domestic Sewing Machine Explanation of Essential Features Explanation of Additional Features Chapter 11 Overview of an Industrial Sewing Machine Industrial Sewing Machine Features Buying an Industrial Sewing Machine Explanation of Essential Features Explanation of Additional Features Explanation of Options on Industrial Machines Chapter 12 : Equipment and Materials List Sewing Machine Accessories Manual and Accessories Bobbins Bobbin Case The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle Basic Sewing Machine Needles Basic Presser Feet Presser Foot Types and Shank Heights Unpicker Chapter 13 Start Sewing on a Sewing Machine Exercise 13.01 : Setting Up Your Sewing Area Exercise 13.02 : Setting Up Your Sewing Machine Exercise 13.03 : Threading a Sewing Machine Exercise 13.04 : Sewing on a Sewing Machine Exercise 13.05 : Basic Sewing Machine Practice Chapter 14 Basic Sewing Machine Troubleshooting Problems and Symptoms Troubleshooting Guide for Sewing Machines and Stitch Quality Exercise 14.01 : Adjusting Thread Tension and Presser Foot Pressure (Sample Exercise) Exercise 14.02 : Sewing Machine Maintenance Chapter 15 Sewing Machine Control Sewing Seam Allowance Accurately Exercise 15.01 : Basic Sewing Machine Control Exercise 15.02 : Basic Straight Seam Exercise 15.03 : Basic Corner Seams Exercise 15.04 : Basic Curved Seams Exercise 15.05 : Pressing Bagged Out Edges Seams, Panel Lines and Bagged Out Edges Exercise 15.06 : Fixing Mistakes and Unpicking Stitches Chapter 16 Working With Fabric Learning About Fabrics and Fabric Terminology Decoding Fabric Names Chapter 17 : Equipment and Materials List Choosing Needles and Thread to Match Fabric Buying and Experimenting With New Fabrics Using the Thread and Needle Table Choosing and Testing Needles and Thread Chapter 18 Understanding Patterns What Are Patterns? What Are Pattern Markings? What Are Darts? Basic Pattern Shapes How Are Patterns Made? Chapter 19 : Equipment and Materials List Pattern Making Pencil, Pens and Eraser Grid Ruler Pattern Paper Paper Shears or Scissors Tracing Wheel Protective Mat Pattern Notcher Awl Chapter 20 Tracing Patterns Exercise 20.01 : Tracing Patterns From This Book Exercise 20.02 : Turn Half-Size Pieces Into Full-Size Patterns Chapter 21 Preparation for Cutting Out Prepare Your Fabric and Pattern Understanding Cutting Instructions Laying Out Fabric Laying Out Pattern Pieces Understanding Grain Lines Cutting Out Chapter 22 : Equipment and Materials List Cutting Out Rotary Cutter and Protective Mat Metal Ruler Pattern Card Pattern Weights Chapter 23 Cut and Sew Different Fabrics Exercise 23.01 : Cutting Out Method 1 (Chalk Marks and Fabric Shears) Exercise 23.02 : Cutting Out Method 2 (Paper Marker and Rotary Cutter) Exercise 23.03 : Sewing Test Seams on Different Fabrics Testing Samples and Making a Reference Folder Compare Seam Samples Chapter 24 : Principle 1 Shaping with Patterns Pattern Shaping Details : Darts, Seams, Gathers, Pleats and Tucks Subtle Pattern Shaping : Ease and Roll Pattern Shaping Across Multiple Fabric Layers Chapter 25 : Principle 2 Shaping with Seam Allowance and Dart Value Shaping with Seam Allowance Shaping with Dart Value Chapter 26 : Principle 3 Shaping and Controlling Fabric with Stitching Shaping with Stitching : Topstitch, Edgestitch, Understitch, Ease and Gather Stitching as a General Construction Method When Stitching Causes Problems Chapter 27 : Principle 4 Advanced Pressing Techniques When To Press While Sewing Using Heat, Pressure and Moisture Pressing Aids, Templates and Pressing Cloths Advanced Pressing Effects: Flatten, Curve, Stretch and Shrink Chapter 28 : Principle 5 Understanding Bulk and Tension Techniques for Reducing Bulk and Tension Points to Remember Sometimes Bulk or Tension is Good Other Ways to Reduce Bulk Chapter 29 : Principle 6 Strengthening and Stabilising Our Expectations on Fabric Why You Can’t Skip Steps for Stabilising or Strengthening Your Fabric Enhance or Change the Fabric Qualities Preserve the Shape of the Fabric Basic Techniques for Strengthening and Stabilising Other Forms of Internal Structure Consider How Garment Details Support or Strengthen Methods and Materials for Temporary Support Chapter 30 : Principle 7 Building and Preserving Garment Shape Before, During and After Sewing Shaping by Hand While Pinning and Basting Increased Control with Hand Sewing Shaping and Easing on the Sewing Machine Directional Sewing Good Habits for Accurate Sewing Designing and Finishing the Garment for Longevity Chapter 31 Troubleshooting Guide for Construction Issues Chapter 32 Basic Garment Shape Seams, Panels and Darts Notes 32.00 : Image Key Chapter 32 : Equipment and Materials List Pressing Aids Pressing Cloths Sleeve Board Pressing Ham Sleeve Roll Point Presser / Clapper Pressing Guides and Templates Exercise 32.01 : Straight Panel Lines Exercise 32.02 : Curved Panel Lines Exercise 32.03 : Basic Shaping with a Dart Exercise 32.04 : Basic Shaping with Seams Exercise 32.05 : Ease on Straight Seams Exercise 32.06 : Stitch Options for Seams and Darts Chapter 33 Basic Machine Stitching : Holding, Marking, Shaping and Reinforcing Fabric Exercise 33.01 : Staystitching Exercise 33.02 : Machine Basting Exercise 33.03 : Gathering Exercise 33.04 : Topstitching and Edgestitching Chapter 34 : Equipment and Materials List Internal Structure General Notes About Buying Interfacing Manufacturer Information and Common Terms Fusible Interfacing or Fusing Sew-in Interfacing Fusible Tape Stay Tape Exercise 34.01 : Apply, Test and Compare Different Types of Fusing Cutting Out Fusing and Interfacing: Grain Lines and RSU Exercise 34.02 : Block Fusing Exercise 34.03 : Piece Fusing Exercise 34.04 : Piece Fusing to Avoid Seams Exercise 34.05 : Fusing Tape on Seams Exercise 34.06 : Stay Tape on Seams Chapter 35 Seam Finishes Chapter 35 : Equipment and Materials List Seam Finishes, Edge Finishes and Hems Pinking Shears Sewing Gauge Pre-Folded Bias Binding Folded Bias Binding Widths Bias Maker Presser Feet for Overcasting and Blind Hems Twin Needle Exercise 35.01 : Basic Seam Finishes Exercise 35.02 : French Seams Exercise 35.03 : Flat Felled Seams Exercise 35.04 : Lapped Seams Exercise 35.05 : Bound Seams (Closed Seams) Exercise 35.06 : Bound Seams (Open Seams) Exercise 35.07 : Bound Seams (Hong Kong Finish) Exercise 35.08 : Make Your Own Binding Exercise 35.09 : Insert Trim into a Seam Chapter 36 Overlocking and Overcasting Chapter 36 : Equipment and Materials List Overlocker and Accessories Overlocker Features Optional Features, Industrial Overlockers and Specialty Machines Explanation of Essential Features Overlocker Manual and Included Accessories Buying Needles, Presser Feet and Accessories for Overlockers Overlocking Thread Coloured Thread for Tension Exercises Exercise 36.01 : Threading an Overlocker Exercise 36.02 : Start Sewing on an Overlocker Exercise 36.03 : Adjusting Overlocker Thread Tension Exercise 36.04 : Adjusting Bite Width and Differential Feed Exercise 36.05 : Overlocking as a Seam Finish Exercise 36.06 : Overlocking to Sew a Seam Exercise 36.07 : Finishing Off Overlocking Exercise 36.08 : Overlocking Edges, Corners and Curves Exercise 36.09 : Overlocking and Overcasting on a Domestic Sewing Machine Exercise 36.10 : Overcasting by Hand Sewing Chapter 37 Edge Finishes and Hems Exercise 37.01 : Basic Edge Finishes Notes 37.02 : Preparation for Edge Finishes and Hems Exercise 37.03 : Turn and Turn Hems (Straight) Exercise 37.04 : Turn and Turn Hems (Curved) Exercise 37.05 : Turn and Turn Hems (Corners) Exercise 37.06 : Single Turn Hem (Straight) Exercise 37.07 : Single Turn Hem (Curved) Notes 37.08 : Alternatives for Shaped Hems and Edges Exercise 37.09 : Narrow Hems Exercise 37.10 : Blind Hem on a Domestic Machine Exercise 37.11 : Blind Hem by Hand Sewing (Hem Stitch) Exercise 37.12 : Blind Hem by Hand Sewing (Catchstitch) Exercise 37.13 : Mitred Corners (Single Turn Hems) Exercise 37.14 : Mitred Corners (Turn and Turn Hems) Exercise 37.15 : Options for Knit Hems Exercise 37.16 : Bound Hems and Edges Exercise 37.17 : Bound Edges (Curved) Exercise 37.18 : Bound Edges (Corners) Exercise 37.19 : Bar Tacks Chapter 38 Inside the Garment Linings and Facings Notes 38.00 : Different Uses of Linings and Facings Chapter 38 : Equipment and Materials List Lining, Pocketing and Grosgrain Lining Pocketing Grosgrain Exercise 38.01 : Loose Linings Exercise 38.02 : Understitching Exercise 38.03 : Facings Exercise 38.04 : Facings with Lining Exercise 38.05 : Using Trim as a Mini Facing Chapter 39 Bagged Out Edges Chapter 39 : Equipment and Materials List Turning and Shaping Loop Turner Point Turner Bodkins Safety Pins Thick Thread Cord Elastic Notes 39.01 : Preparation for Bagged Out Edges Exercise 39.02 : Bag Out a Large Curve (Topstitch) Exercise 39.03 : Bag Out a Large Curve (Roll and Understitch) Exercise 39.04 : Bag Out a Small Curve (Edgestitch) Exercise 39.05 : Bag Out a Small Curve (Roll and Understitch) Exercise 39.06 : Turning Corners Through with Thread Exercise 39.07 : Bag Out Corners (Topstitch) Exercise 39.08 : Bag Out Corners (Shaped Fusing) Exercise 39.09 : Bag Out Tubes (Straps) Exercise 39.10 : Bag Out Tubes (Belt Loops) Exercise 39.11 : Bag Out Tubes (Belts) Exercise 39.12 : Bag Out Tubes (Corded Rouleaux) Exercise 39.13 : Bag Out Tubes (Rouleaux) Exercise 39.14 : Bag Out a Point (Topstitch) Exercise 39.15 : Bag Out a Point (Understitch) Exercise 39.16 : Bag Out a Point (Roll) Exercise 39.17 : Insert Trim into a Bagged Out Edge Notes 39.18 : Marking Inside Shapes Exercise 39.19 : Bag Out Inside Shapes (Squares and Rectangles) Exercise 39.20 : Bag Out Inside Shapes (Circles and Ovals) Exercise 39.21 : Bag Out a V-Shape Chapter 40 Bagged Out Shapes and Garments Exercise 40.01 : Bag Out Panel Lines Exercise 40.02 : Bag Out Through a Lining Seam Method 1 Exercise 40.03 : Slipstitch Exercise 40.04 : Draw Stitch Exercise 40.05 : Bag Out Through a Lining Seam Method 2 Exercise 40.06 : Bag Out Garments in Stages Chapter 41 Pockets Exercise 41.01 : In-Seam Pockets (Closed Seams) Exercise 41.02 : In-Seam Pockets (Open Seams) Exercise 41.03 : Patch Pockets (Pointed) Exercise 41.04 : Patch Pockets (Curved) Chapter 42 Garment Shaping Complex Curved Seams Exercise 42.01 : Curved Seams (Flat Sleeve Assembly) Exercise 42.02 : Curved Seams with Ease (Set-In Sleeve Assembly) Chapter 43 Garment Shaping Pleats, Tucks, Gathers and Elastic Exercise 43.01 : Gathering onto a Facing Exercise 43.02 : Gathering as Dart Replacement Exercise 43.03 : Gathering with a Casing and Drawstring Exercise 43.04 : Gathering with a Casing and Elastic Method 1 Exercise 43.05 : Gathering with a Casing and Elastic Method 2 Exercise 43.06 : Sewing Elastic Directly Onto Fabric Notes 43.07 : Preparation for Pleats and Tucks Exercise 43.08 : Pleat as Dart Replacement Exercise 43.09 : Pleats in Lining Exercise 43.10 : Knife Pleats Exercise 43.11 : Knife Pleats with Dart Value Exercise 43.12 : Inverted Box Pleats Exercise 43.13 : Tucks and Pintucks Exercise 43.14 : Tuck as Dart Replacement Chapter 44 Garment Shaping Splits, Vents and Plackets Exercise 44.01 : Split Exercise 44.02 : Vent Exercise 44.03 : Placket Chapter 45 Fastenings and Closures Notes 45.00 : Directions of Closures Chapter 45 : Equipment and Materials List Fastenings and Closures Beeswax Press Studs Hooks and Eyes Hook and Bar Buttons Covered Button Kit Guide Template and Conversion Table for Button Sizes Parts of a Zipper Zipper Size or Gauge Zipper Length Closed-End Zipper Invisible Zipper Open-End Zipper Presser Feet for Buttonholes and Buttons Buttonhole Options for Sewers with Industrial Machines Zipper Presser Foot Invisible Zipper Presser Foot Notes 45.01 : Hand Sewing Preparation for Fastenings Exercise 45.02 : Whipstitch Exercise 45.03 : Buttonhole Stitch Exercise 45.04 : Press Studs Exercise 45.05 : Machine Sewn Buttonholes Exercise 45.06 : Flat Buttons Exercise 45.07 : Shank Buttons Exercise 45.08 : Covered Buttons and Press Studs Exercise 45.09 : Hook and Eye Exercise 45.10 : Hook and Thread Loop Exercise 45.11 : Hook and Bar Notes 45.12 : Shortening Zippers Notes 45.13 : Sewing Zippers Exercise 45.14 : Invisible Zipper Method 1 Exercise 45.15 : Invisible Zipper Method 2 Exercise 45.16 : Lining an Invisible Zipper Exercise 45.17 : Centred Lapped Zipper Method 1 Exercise 45.18 : Centred Lapped Zipper Method 2 Exercise 45.19 : Facing and Lining for a Centred Lapped Zipper Exercise 45.20 : Lapped Zipper Exercise 45.21 : Lining a Lapped Zipper Exercise 45.22 : Exposed Open-End Zipper Exercise 45.23 : Fly Front Zipper Notes 45.24 : Adapting the Fly Front Zipper Pattern Chapter 46 Enclosing Fabric Edges in Bands Cuffs, Collars and Waistbands Exercise 46.01 : Basic Band (Seamed to Edge) Exercise 46.02 : Basic Band (Enclosed) Exercise 46.03 : Waistband (Ditch Stitched Closed) Exercise 46.04 : Waistband (Slipstitched Closed) Exercise 46.05 : Collar and Collar Stand Chapter 47 Choosing and Starting a Project For Your First Project, Start with Something Easy For Your First Garment, Start with Something Unfitted Choosing Garments to Sew Chapter 47 : Equipment and Materials List Project Supplies Commercial Sewing Patterns Choosing Patterns for Your Skill Level Understanding Commercial Patterns Final Fabrics (Self, Contrast and Lining) How Much Fabric to Buy Internal Structure Threads, Trims and Fastenings Toile Fabrics and Fastenings Extra Equipment and Tools Exercise 47.01 : Body Measurements and Pattern Sizes Exercise 47.02 : Working with Commercial Sewing Patterns Exercise 47.03 : Sew a First Toile Exercise 47.04 : Sew Samples of Sewing Techniques Exercise 47.05 : Fitting and Finalising the Design Chapter 48 Cutting and Sewing the Final Garment Bringing Together Your Preparation Work Exercise 48.01 : Order of Assembly Exercise 48.02 : Cutting Fabric for the Final Garment Exercise 48.03 : Sewing the Final Garment Exercise 48.04 : Sewing Project Debrief Chapter 49 Apply Your Knowledge and Expand Your Skills Challenge Yourself Experiment with New Techniques, Materials, Trims, and Equipment