Handloom Sustainability and Culture: Entrepreneurship, Culture and Luxury (Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry)

This first of the three volume series highlights the intricate relationship in the handloom industry between its culture and the various areas of sustainability. While there have been major disruptions in this age old industry, this volume presents the luxury and the entrepreneurship aspects to keep the industry moving ahead. The book contains seventeen chapters written by leading experts in the areas and discusses means to revive some of the cultures that are on the verge of closing/shutting down. Preface Contents About the Editors Bapta Saree Revival: Reinventing the Past for a Sustainable Future 1 Introduction 2 Bapta Saree 3 Cultural Exchange and Social Sustainability 4 Craft Revival for a Sustainable Future: An Example of ‘Bapta Revival Project’ by Label Rustic Hue 5 Bapta Saree—A Form of Sustainable Clothing 6 Conclusion References Community Entrepreneurship and Environmental Sustainability of the Handloom Sector 1 Introduction 2 Historical Background of Handlooms 3 Traditional Handlooms 4 Handloom and Associated Sector 5 Technology (Weaving and Coloration) of Handloom 5.1 Carpet Weaving 6 Community Entrepreneurship of Handloom Sector 7 Sustainable and Fair Trade Approach 8 Lack of Knowledge, Training, and Education Within Craftsman 9 Environmental Aspects of Handloom 10 SWOT Analysis of the Handloom Sector 11 Conclusions References HANDLOOMS: Unleashing Cultural Potentials 1 Introduction 2 Roles of Apparel in Ancestral and Modern Societies 3 The Art of Weaving 4 The Handloom in Argentinian Andes 4.1 Before and After the Appearance of Handloom 4.2 Handloom Frames 5 The Weavers 6 The Present of Handloom in Argentinian Andes 7 Conclusions References The Influence of Culture on the Sustainable Entrepreneur: An Investigation into Fashion Entrepreneurs in Saudi Arabia 1 Introduction 2 Sustainability and Luxury Fashion 3 Sustainability and Luxury Fashion in Saudi Arabia 4 Saudi Female Entrepreneur and Luxury Sustainable Fashion 5 Luxury Fashion and Cultural Heritage 6 Methodology 7 Findings and Discussion 7.1 Meanings and Beliefs Assigned to Luxury Sustainable Fashion and Saudi Vision 2030 7.2 Materials and Design as Symbols of Luxury Sustainable Cultural Heritage 7.3 The Interplay of Heritage Creativity in Reinventing Modern Sustainable Luxury Fashion 8 Conclusions References A Sustainable Alternative for the Woven Fabrics: “Traditional Buldan Handwoven Fabrics” 1 Introduction 2 Buldan Town and Its History 3 The Importance of Weaving and the Economical Structure in Buldan 4 Traditional Buldan Fabrics 4.1 Buldan Twisted Cloth 4.2 Other Traditional Buldan Products 5 Weaving Machines Utilized in Buldan 6 Embroidery in Buldan Clothes 7 Some Previous Studies in the Literature About Buldan Cloth 8 The Examples of Local Workshop Centers for Hand weaving in Buldan 9 Conclusion References The Cultural Sustainability of the Textile Art Object 1 Introduction 2 Methodology/Team/Materials and Techniques 3 Results and Discussions 4 Conclusions References Conscious, Collaborative Clothing: A Case Study on Regenerating Relationships Within the Khadi Value Chain 1 Introduction 2 Methodology 3 In Collaboration with a Social Enterprise: Khadi London 4 An Introduction to Khadi 4.1 Cotton to Cloth 4.2 A Brief History 4.3 Handloom and Khadi 4.4 Social, Environmental and Economic Impacts 4.5 Developments in the Khadi Sector 5 Opportunities of Collaboration with Khadi London 6 Development of Khadi Artefacts 6.1 Exploring a Diverse, Democratic and Decentralised Design Practice 6.2 Response to Khadi 6.3 Reflection 6.4 Further Perspectives 7 Impacts of Rebuilding and Regenerating Relationships 7.1 A Heightened Synergy Between Designer, Design Process and Material 7.2 Towards Conscious Clothing and Textile Futures 8 Conclusion References A Sustainable Model: Handloom and Community in Meghalaya, Northeast India 1 Introduction 1.1 Organisation of the Paper 1.2 Contextualising the Terms 1.3 Situating the Case Study: The Culture of the Ri Bhoi District 2 Eri Silk Weaving in Meghalaya 2.1 Environmental Sustainability 2.2 Cultural Sustainability 2.3 Socio-Economic Sustainability 3 Shifting the Balance: Handloom and Development in Meghalaya 3.1 A Snapshot of Handloom Development Initiatives in the Ri Bhoi District 3.2 Social Impact of a Shift to Commerce 3.3 Considering the Artisan Perspective 4 Conclusion References The Influence of Starch Desizing on Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics in Anatolia 1 Introduction 2 The Local Fabrics and Their Productions in Anotalia 2.1 Feretiko (Rize Fabric) 2.2 Ayancik Linen 2.3 Burumcuk Fabric 3 Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics 3.1 Enzymatic Desizing 3.2 Mechanical Properties of Traditional Fabrics 3.3 Wettability 3.4 Thermal Conductivity 3.5 Thermal Resistance 3.6 Thermal Absorptivity 3.7 Air Permeability 3.8 Clothing Insulation 4 Conclusion References Indian Handloom Design Innovations and Interventions Through Sustenance Lens 1 Introduction 1.1 Challenges of Indian Handloom Saree Designs 2 Design and Making of Traditional Kanjivaram, Ikat, and Jamdani Sarees 2.1 Kanjivaram Sarees 2.2 Ikat 2.3 Jamdani and Uppada Jamdani 3 The Changing Face of Indian Fashion Semiology 4 Design Interventions in Indian Handlooms 4.1 Designer Intervention Strategies in Jamdani 4.2 Design Intervention in Kanjivaram Saree 4.3 Design Intervention in Ikat 4.4 Impact of Designer Intervention Strategies on Weaving Craftsmen Livelihoods 5 Conclusion References How Translating Between Heritage and Contemporary Fashion Can Create a Sustainable Fashion Movement 1 Introduction 2 The Value of Artisan Knowledge 2.1 Consumer and Industry Sentiment on Handmade Textiles 3 Contemporary Brands Working with Artisan Communities 3.1 BLONI—Education and Innovation to Find Your Customer Group Between Two Worlds 3.2 A New Cross—Realising that Your Heritage Can Become Your Strength 3.3 Priah—Social and Entrepreneurial Growth Through Handmade Textiles 4 Conclusion References Consumers’ Attitudes Toward Sustainable Luxury Products: The Role of Perceived Uniqueness and Conspicuous Consumption Orientation 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Background 3 Methodology 4 Results 5 General Discussion and Conclusions Appendix A—The Questionnaire (Translated from Italian to English) References Uzbekistan: The Silk Route of Handloom 1 Introduction 2 The Challenges of the Handloom Sector 2.1 Raw Material Availability and Increasing Prices 2.2 Financial Constraints 2.3 Lack of Modern Technology 2.4 Lack of Merchandise Innovation 2.5 Lack of Data on Craftsmen 3 Recommendations and Discussions 3.1 Ensuring Raw Material Supply 3.2 Innovation as a Strategy 3.3 The Digital Connection 3.4 Financial Modelling and Governance 3.5 Supporting Sustainable Development and Training Human Resources 4 Conclusions 5 Further Scope of Research References Aesthetic Capitalism and Sustainable Competitiveness in Urban Artisanal Networks 1 Introduction and Background 2 Literature Review 2.1 Aesthetic Capitalism and the Culture of Fashion Markets 2.2 The Relational View of the Firm, Network Resources and Urbanization Economies 2.3 Slow Fashion, Craft and Tacit Knowledge Transfer and Sharing 2.4 Craft and the True Meaning of Luxury 2.5 Experiential Retailing 3 Research Methods and the Case Study 3.1 The Case Study 4 Discussion 5 Concluding Comments and Perspectives References