Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology (Ancient Textiles)

Twenty chapters present the range of current research into the study of textiles and dress in classical antiquity, stressing the need for cross and inter-disciplinarity study in order to gain the fullest picture of surviving material. Issues addressed include: the importance of studying textiles to understand economy and landscape in the past; different types of embellishments of dress from weaving techniques to the (late introduction) of embroidery; the close links between the language of ancient mathematics and weaving; the relationships of iconography to the realities of clothed bodies including a paper on the ground breaking research on the polychromy of ancient statuary; dye recipes and methods of analysis; case studies of garments in Spanish, Viennese and Greek collections which discuss methods of analysis and conservation; analyses of textile tools from across the Mediterranean; discussions of trade and ethnicity to the workshop relations in Roman fulleries. Multiple aspects of the production of textiles and the social meaning of dress are included here to offer the reader an up-to-date account of the state of current research. The volume opens up the range of questions that can now be answered when looking at fragments of textiles and examining written and iconographic images of dressed individuals in a range of media. This volume is part of a pair together withPrehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology edited by Mary Harlow, Cécile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch, Isbn 9781782977193 Twenty chapters present the range of current research into the study of textiles and dress in classical antiquity, stressing the need for cross and interdisciplinary study in order to gain the fullest picture of surviving material. Issues addressed the importance of studying textiles to understand economy and landscape in the past; different types of embellishments of dress from weaving techniques to the (late introduction) of embroidery; the close links between the language of ancient mathematics and weaving; the relationships of iconography to the realities of clothed bodies including a paper on the ground breaking research on the polychromy of ancient statuary; dye recipes and methods of analysis; case studies of garments in Spanish, Viennese and Greek collections which discuss methods of analysis and conservation; analyses of textile tools from across the Mediterranean; discussions of trade and ethnicity to the workshop relations in Roman fulleries. Multiple aspects of the production of textiles and the social meaning of dress are included here to offer the reader an up-to-date account of the state of current research. The volume opens up the range of questions that can now be answered when looking at fragments of textiles and examining written and iconographic images of dressed individuals in a range of media. This volume is part of a pair together with Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and an interdisciplinary anthology edited by Mary Harlow, Ccile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch, Isbn 9781782977193 Table of Contents 1. Mary Harlow & Marie-Louise Nosch, Methodologies in Textile and Dress Research for the Greek and Roman World. The State of the Art and the Case for Interdisciplinarity 2. Stella Spantidaki, Embellishment Techniques of Classical Greek Textiles 3. Ellen Harlizius-Klck, The Importance of Gender and Reproduction in Mathematics and Weaving 4. Cecile Brns, Representations and Fibulas and Pins in Greek and Near Eastern Iconography 5. Marco Ercoles, Dressing the Citharode. A Chapter in Greek Musical and Cultic Imagery - 6. Matteo Martelli, Alchemical Colourful Garments, Recipes and Dyeing Techniques in the Graeco-Roman Egypt 7. Christina Margariti and Maria Kinti, The Conservation of a 5th century BC Excavated Textile Find from the Kerameikos Cemetery at Athens 8. Mark Lawall, Transport Amphoras and Integrating Elements of Ancient Greek Economies? 9. Elisabeth Trinkl, The Wool Basket. Function, Depiction and Meaning of the kalathos 10. Kerstin Dro-Krpe and Annette Paetz gen. Schieck, Unravelling the Tangled Threads of Ancient a compilation of written sources and archaeologically preserved textiles 11. Francesco Meo, New Archaeological Data for the Understanding of Weaving inTextile Herakleia, Southern Basilicata, Italy 12. Lena Larsson Lovn, Roman What can it tell us about dress and textiles? A discussion on the use of visual evidence as sources for textile research 13. Amalie Skovmller, Where Marble Meets Surface Texturing of Hair, Skin and Dress on Roman Marble Portraits as Support for Painted Polychromy 14. Jessica Dixon, Dressing the Adulteress 15. Elizabeth Bevis, Looking Between Loom and Vision and Communication in Ostian Fulling Workshops 16. Zofia Kaczmarek, Roman Textiles and Some Observations on Textile Exchange between the Roman Empire and Barbaricum 17. Ines Bogensperger, The Multiple Functions and Lives of a Textile the Reuse of a Garment 18. Laura Rodriguez Peinado, Ana Cabrera Lafuente, Enrique Parra Crego and Luis Turell Coll, Discovering Late Antique Textiles in the Public Collections in An Interdisciplinary Research Project 19. Pilar Borrego and Carmen Vega, A New Approach to the Understanding of Historic Textiles 20. Catherine C. Taylor, Burial A Late Antique Textile and the Iconography of the Virgin Annunciate Spinning 21. Author descriptions, and Acknowledgements Textile and dress production, from raw materials to finished items, has had a significant impact on society from its earliest history. The essays in this volume offer a fresh insight into the emerging interdisciplinary research field of textile and dress studies by discussing archaeological, iconographical and textual evidence within a broad geographical and chronological spectrum. The thirteen chapters explore issues, such as the analysis of textile tools, especially spindle whorls, and textile imprints for reconstructing textile production in contexts as different as Neolithic Transylvania, the Early Bronze Age North Aegean and the Early Iron Age Eastern Mediterranean; the importance of cuneiform clay tablets as a documentary source for both drawing a detailed picture of the administration of a textile industry and for addressing gender issues, such as the construction of masculinity in the Sumerian kingdoms of the 3rd millennium BC; and discussions of royal and priestly costumes and clothing ornaments in the Mesopotamian kingdom of Mari and in Mycenaean culture. Textile terms testify to intensive exchanges between Semitic and Indo-European languages, especially within the terminology of trade goods. The production and consumption of textiles and garments are demonstrated in 2nd millennium Hittite Anatolia; from 1st millennium BC Assyria, a cross-disciplinary approach combines texts, realia and iconography to produce a systematic study of golden dress decorations; and finally, the important discussion of fibers, flax and wool, in written and archaeological sources is evidence for delineating the economy of linen and the strong symbolic value of fiber types in 1st millennium Babylonia and the Southern Levant. The volume is part of a pair together with Greek and Roman Textiles and An Interdisciplinary Anthology edited by Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch. Isbn 9781782977155 Table of Contents Index, acknowledgements 1. Paula Mazare, Investigating Neolithic and Copper Age textile production in Transylvania (Romania). Applied Methods and Results 2. Sophia Vakirtzi, Chaido KoukouliChryssanthaki, and Stratis Papadopoulos, Spindle whorls from two prehistoric settlements on Thassos, North Aegean 3. Richard Firth. Textiles Texts of the Lagash II Period 4. Ariane Thomas, Searching for lost costumes. A few remarks about the royal costume in Ancient Mesopotamia focusing on the Amorite Kingdom of Mari 5. Matteo Vigo, Giulia Baccelli, Benedetta Bellucci, Elements for a Comparative Study of Textile Production and Consumption in the Hittite Anatolia and Its Neighbours 6. Eleni Konstantinidi-Syvridi, Buttons, pins, clips and belts Inconspicuous dress accessories from the burial context of the Mycenaean period (16th-12th cent. BC) 7. Valentina Gasbarra, Textile Semitic Loanwords in Mycenaean as Wanderwrter 8. Agns Garcia-Ventura, Constructing masculinities through textile production in the Ancient Near East 9. Caroline Sauvage, Spindles and Late Bronze and Early Iron Age eastern Mediterranean use of solid and tapered ivory/bone shafts 10. Salvatore Gaspa Golden Decorations in Assyrian An Interdisciplinary Approach 11. Tina Boloti, E-ri-tas contribution to the study of the Mycenaean priestesses attire 12. Louise Quillien, Flax and Linen in the First Millennium Babylonia Origins, Craft Industry and Uses of a Remarkable Textile 13. Orit Shamir, Two Special Traditions in Jewish Garments and the Rarity of Mixing Wool and Linen Threads in the Same Textile in the Jewish Tradition Cover 1 Title Page 2 Copyright Page 3 Contents 4 Acknowledgements 6 Contributors 7 Chapter 1: Weaving the Threads: methodologies in textile and dress research for the Greek and Roman world – the state of the art and the case for cross-disciplinarity by Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch 12 Chapter 2: Embellishment Techniques of Classical Greek Textiles by Stella Spantidaki 45 Chapter 3: The Importance of Beginnings: gender and reproduction in mathematics and weaving by Ellen Harlizius-Klück 57 Chapter 4: Representation and Realities: fibulas and pins in Greek and Near Eastern iconography by Cecilie Brøns 71 Chapter 5: Dressing the Citharode: a chapter in Greek musical and cultic imagery by Marco Ercoles 106 Chapter 6: Alchemical Textiles: colourful garments, recipes and dyeing techniques in Graeco-Roman Egypt by Matteo Martelli 122 Chapter 7: The Conservation of a 5th-Century BC Excavated Textile Find from the Kerameikos Cemetery at Athens by Christina Margariti and Maria Kinti 141 Chapter 8: Transport Amphoras and Loomweights: integrating elements of ancient Greek economies? by Mark L. Lawall 161 Chapter 9: The Wool Basket: function, depiction and meaning of the kalathos by Elisabeth Trinkl 201 Chapter 10: Unravelling the Tangled Threads of Ancient Embroidery: a compilation of written sources and archaeologically preserved textiles by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe and Annette Paetz gen. Schieck 218 Chapter 11: New Archaeological Data for the Understanding of Weaving in Herakleia, Southern Basilicata, Italy by Francesco Meo 247 Chapter 12: Roman Art: what can it tell us about dress and textiles? A discussion on the use of visual evidence as sources for textile research by Lena Larsson Lovén 271 Chapter 13: Where Marble Meets Colour: surface texturing of hair, skin and dress on Roman marble portraits as support for painted polychromy by Amalie Skovmøller 290 Chapter 14: Dressing the Adulteress by Jessica Dixon 309 Chapter 15: Looking Between Loom and Laundry: vision and communication in Ostian fulling workshops by Elizabeth Bevis 317 Chapter 16: Roman Textiles and Barbarians: some observations on textile exchange between the Roman Empire and Barbaricum by Zofia Kaczmarek 334 Chapter 17: The Multiple Functions and Lives of a Textile: the reuse of a garment by Ines Bogensperger 346 Chapter 18: Discovering Late Antique Textiles in the Public Collections in Spain: an interdisciplinary research project by Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Ana Cabrera Lafuente, Enrique Parra Crego and Luis Turell Coll 356 Chapter 19: A New Approach to the Understanding of Historic Textiles by Pilar Borrego and Carmen Vega 385 Chapter 20: Burial Threads: a late antique textile and the iconography of the Virgin Annunciate spinning by Catherine C. Taylor 410 Textile and dress production, from raw materials to finished items, has had a significant impact on society from its earliest history. The essays in this volume offer a fresh insight into the emerging interdisciplinary research field of textile and dress studies by discussing archaeological, iconographical and textual evidence within a broad geographical and chronological spectrum. The thirteen chapters explore issues, such as the analysis of textile tools, especially spindle whorls, and textile imprints for reconstructing textile production in contexts as different as Neolithic Transylvania, the Early Bronze Age North Aegean and the Early Iron Age Eastern Mediterranean; the importance of cuneiform clay tablets as a documentary source for both drawing a detailed picture of the administration of a textile industry and for addressing gender issues, such as the construction of masculinity in the Sumerian kingdoms of the 3rd millennium BC; and discussions of royal and priestly costumes and clothing ornaments in the Mesopotamian kingdom of Mari and in Mycenaean culture. Textile terms testify to intensive exchanges between Semitic and Indo-European languages, especially within the terminology of trade goods. The production and consumption of textiles and garments are demonstrated in 2nd millennium Hittite Anatolia; from 1st millennium BC Assyria, a cross-disciplinary approach combines texts, realia and iconography to produce a systematic study of golden dress decorations; and finally, the important discussion of fibres, flax and wool, in written and archaeological sources is evidence for delineating the economy of linen and the strong symbolic value of fibre types in 1st millennium Babylonia and the Southern Levant. The volume is part of a pair together with Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology edited by Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch. Investigating Neolithic and Copper Age textile production in Transylvania (Romania) : applied methods and results / Paula Mazare Spindle whorls from two prehistoric settlements on Thassos, north Aegean / Sophia Vakirtzi, Chaido Koukouli-Chryssanthaki and Stratis Papadopoulos Textiles texts of the Lagash II period / Richard Firth Searching for lost costumes : a few remarks about the royal costume in ancient Mesopotamia focusing on the Amorite kingdom of Mari / Ariane Thomas Elements for a comparative study of textile production and consumption in the Hittite Anatolia and its neighbours / Matteo Vigo, Giulia Baccelli and Benedetta Bellucci Buttons, pins, clips and belts : inconspicuous dress accessories from the burial context of the Mycenaean period (16th-12th cent. BC) / Eleni Konstantinidi-Syvridi Textile semitic loanwords in Mycenaean as Wanderwörter / Valentina Gasbarra Constructing masculinities through textile production in the ancient Near East / Agnès Garcia-Ventura Spindles and distaffs : late Bronze and early Iron Age eastern Mediterranean use of solid and tapered ivory/bone shafts / Caroline Sauvage Golden decorations in Assyrian textiles : an interdisciplinary approach / Salvatore Gaspa Erita's dress : contribution to the study of the Mycenaean priestesses' attire / Tina Boloti Flax and linen in the first millennium Babylonia BCE : origins, craft industry and uses of a remarkable textile / Louise Quillien Special traditions in Jewish garments and the rarity of mixing wool and linen threads in the same textile in the Jewish tradition / Orit Shamir. Twenty Chapters Present The Range Of Current Research Into The Study Of Textiles And Dress In Classical Antiquity, Stressing The Need For Cross And Inter-disciplinarity Study In Order To Gain The Fullest Picture Of Surviving Material. Issues Addressed Include: The Importance Of Studying Textiles To Understand Economy And Landscape In The Past; Different Types Of Embellishments Of Dress From Weaving Techniques To The (late Introduction) Of Embroidery; The Close Links Between The Language Of Ancient Mathematics And Weaving; The Relationships Of Iconography To The Realities Of Clothed Bodies Including A Paper On The Ground Breaking Research On The Polychromy Of Ancient Statuary; Dye Recipes And Methods Of Analysis; Case Studies Of Garments In Spanish, Viennese And Greek Collections Which Discuss Methods Of Analysis And Conservation; Analyses Of Textile Tools From Across The Mediterranean; Discussions Of Trade And Ethnicity To The Workshop Relations In Roman Fulleries. Multiple Aspects Of The Production Of Textiles And The Social Meaning Of Dress Are Included Here To Offer The Reader An Up-to-date Account Of The State Of Current Research. The Volume Opens Up The Range Of Questions That Can Now Be Answered When Looking At Fragments Of Textiles And Examining Written And Iconographic Images Of Dressed Individuals In A Range Of Media. The Volume Is Part Of A Pair Together With Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern And Aegean Textiles And Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology Edited By Mary Harlow, C_cile Michel And Marie-louise Nosch "The volume presents the range of current research into the study of textiles and dress in classical antiquity stressing the need for cross and inter-disciplinary in order to gain the fulllest picture of surviving material. Twenty chapters by a range of experts in the subject address issues such as: the importance of studying textiles to understand the economy and landscape of the past; different types of embellishments of dress from weaving techniques to the (late introduction) of embroidery; the close links between the language of ancient mathematics and weaving; the relationships of iconography to the realities of clothed bodies including a paper on the ground breaking research on the polychromy of ancient statuary; dye recipes and methods of dye analysis; case students of germents in Spanish, Viennese and Greek collections which discuss methods of analysis and conservation; analyses of textile tools from across the Mediterranean; discussions of trade and ethnicity to the workshop relations in Roman fulleries. Multiple aspects of the production of textiles and the social meaning of dress are included here to offer the reader an up-to-date account of the state of current research. The volume opens up the range of questions that can now be answered when looking at fragments of textiles and examining written and iconographic images of dressed in a range of media"--Back cover.