‘Going Native?': Settler Colonialism and Food (Food and Identity in a Globalising World)

This volume offers a comparative survey of diverse settler colonial experiences in relation to food, food culture and foodways - how the latter are constructed, maintained, revolutionised and, in some cases, dissolved. What do settler colonial foodways and food cultures look like? Are they based on an imagined colonial heritage, do they embrace indigenous repertoires or invent new hybridised foodscapes? What are the socio-economic and political dynamics of these cultural transformations? In particular, this volume focuses on three key issues: the evolution of settler colonial identities and states; their relations vis-à-vis indigenous populations; and settlers’ self-indigenisation – the process through which settlers transform themselves into the native population, at least in their own eyes. These three key issues are crucial in understanding settler-indigenous relations and the rise of settler colonial identities and states. Contents Notes on Contributors List of Figures 1: Introduction What Is Settler Colonialism? A Relational Approach Self-indigenisation Methodology and Structure Beginnings: Hybrid Food Cultures and Foodways From Erasure to Decolonisation After Decolonisation? Bibliography Part I: Beginnings: Hybrid Food Cultures and Foodways 2: Spanish Settlers and Andean Food Systems Introduction Settler Colonialism Indigenous Foodways The Settlers Land and Labour Hybrid Foodways? Concluding Thoughts Bibliography 3: What Belongs in the “Federal Diet”? Depictions of a National Cuisine in the Early American Republic Introduction “A Federal Diet” and the Prospects of a Unified Nation The Omission of Yaupon from “A Federal Diet” Separating Native Foods from Indigenous Peoples Conclusion Bibliography 4: The Taste of Colonialism? Changing Norms of Rice Production and Consumption in Modern Taiwan Introduction From Javanica to Indica From Indica to Japonica Breeding Rice with ‘Taiwanese Characteristics’ Conclusion Bibliography 5: ‘Like the Papacy of Mexican Cuisine’: Mayoras and Traditional Foods in Contemporary Mexico Introduction Cocineras Tradicionales: Vessels of Collective Ancestral Knowledge Who Can Be a Cocinera Tradicional? Mayoras: Contested Identities, Ambivalent Figures Bibliography Part II: From Erasure to Decolonisation 6: Unsettling the History of Macadamia Nuts in Northern New South Wales Introduction Unsettling History Colonial Cultivation Final Thoughts Bibliography 7: Definitions of Hawaiian Food: Evidence of Settler Colonialism in Selected Cookbooks from the Hawaiian Islands (1896–2021) Printed Material and Settlement Colonialism in Hawai’i Cookbook Studies Hawaiian Cookbook (Ladies Society of the Central Union Church: 1896) How We Serve Hawaiian Canned Pineapple (Hawaiian Pineapple Packers’ Association [HPPA]: 1914) Favorite Island Cookery: Book V 1889–1989 (Honpa Hongwanji Hawaii Betsuin: 1989) Taste Our Love for the Land: Recipes and Sustainability Stories from the Chefs of the Hawai’i Food Wine Festival (Denise Hayashi Yamaguchi: 2015) Cook Real Hawai’i (Sheldon Simeon and Garrett Snyder: 2021) Conclusion Bibliography 8: Decolonising Israeli Food? Between Culinary Appropriation and Recognition in Israel/Palestine Introduction: Contesting Rootedness Setting the Table: Settler Colonialism and Self-Indigenisation Cosmopolitan Appropriation: Depoliticising Food Arab-Jewish Revival: Identity Politics in the Kitchen The Reflexive Decoloniser: Recognition, Respect, and Terroir Conclusion: Food for Politics Bibliography 9: ‘Uneasy Lies the Head That Wears the Crown’: Lamb or Kangaroo, Which Should Reign Supreme? The Implications of Heroising a Settler Colonial Food Icon as National Identity Advance Australian Fare Mongrels and Mavericks Indigenising the Menu Kangaroo Consumption Indigenising Lamb ‘The Meat That Doesn’t Discriminate’ Eating Otherness Rethinking, Reframing, Reclaiming Bibliography Websites Part III: After Decolonisation? 10: “A Manly Amount of Wreckage”: South African Food Culture and Settler Belonging in Ivan Vladislavić’s Double Negative A Manly Amount of Wreckage: Masculinity, Territory, and Braai Individual Ramekins, If You Don’t Mind Conclusion Bibliography 11: Sustaining the Memory of Colonial Algeria Through Food Introduction Cookbooks Food Websites Restorative Nostalgia: Culinary Recolonisation Reflective Nostalgia: Healing Memory Conclusion Bibliography 12: The Predicaments of Settler Gastrocolonialism Controlling the Foodways Economy Settler Colonial Foodways and Food Cultures Decolonising Food and Food Cultures Bibliography Index This volume offers a comparative survey and analysis of diverse settler colonial experiences in relation to food, food culture and foodways - how the latter are constructed, maintained, revolutionised and, in some cases, dissolved. What do settler colonial foodways and food cultures look like? Are they based on an imagined colonial heritage, do they embrace indigenous repertoires or invent new hybridised foodscapes? What are the socio-economic and political dynamics of these cultural transformations? In particular, this volume focuses on three key issues: the evolution of settler colonial identities and states; their relations vis-a-vis indigenous populations; and settlers self-indigenisation the process through which settlers transform themselves into the native population, at least in their own eyes. These three key issues are crucial in understanding the rise of settler colonial identities and states, and their interaction with the indigenous populations that inhabit them. The work will be of interest to students and scholars of food studies, settler and post-colonial studies, sociologists, anthropologists and political scientists