Gastronativism: Food, Identity, Politics (Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History)

Winner, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards - Food - Food Heritage - USA Nominee, Book Award in Food Issues and Advocacy, James Beard Foundation The Italian political right is outraged by halal tortellini and a pork-free lasagna served at the Vatican. In India, Hindu fundamentalists organize attacks on Muslims who sell beef. European anti-immigrant politicians denounce couscous and kebabs. In an era of nationalist and exclusionary movements, food has become a potent symbol of identity. Why has eating become so politically charged―and can the emotions surrounding food be redirected in a healthier direction? Fabio Parasecoli identifies and defines the phenomenon of “gastronativism,” the ideological use of food to advance ideas about who belongs to a community and who does not. As globalization and neoliberalism have transformed food systems, people have responded by seeking to return to their roots. Many have embraced local ingredients and notions of cultural heritage, but this impulse can play into the hands of nationalist and xenophobic political projects. Such movements draw on the strong emotions connected with eating to stoke resentment and contempt for other people and cultures. Parasecoli emphasizes that gastronativism is a worldwide phenomenon, even as it often purports to oppose local aspects and consequences of globalization. He also explores how to channel pride in culinary traditions toward resisting transnational corporations, uplifting marginalized and oppressed groups, and assisting people left behind by globalization. Featuring a wide array of examples from all over the world, Gastronativism is a timely, incisive, and lively analysis of how and why food has become a powerful political tool. "Parasecoli coins and explains the concept of "gastronativism" to help us better understand the ways food has become a powerful ideological tool in political debates, protests, and negotiations. The overarching goal is to demonstrate what gastronativism is, along with the social and political work gastronativism does by means of a wide array of examples from all over the world, with an emphasis on developments during the last decade. Parasecoli describes how globalization and neoliberalism together drive the rise of gastronativism. He also points out that debates around food are rarely about food. The central role of food in everyday life, and its role in determining collective identities, help link it to a much deeper and more complex socio-economic dynamics. How is food used for political purposes? Food offers a unique perspective, because it connects very personal experiences to global systems. Because it is so intimate and emotionally powerful, food is the perfect prism through which to view nativism. Especially after the 2008 financial crisis, food has been used by those who feel they have been excluded or victimized by neoliberal globalization to express fears and resentment generated by changes wrought by globalization. As a reaction, there is among some a desire to go back to one's own food and culinary roots to anchor their identity. Hence gastronativism. This book poses questions about how neoliberal policies set the stage for a range of food movements to embrace local ingredients and encourage heritage recipes. This phenomenon can express itself in local and regional foods, agro-biodiversity, and artisanal know-how. It can support movements for equality, justice, and resistance against transnational corporations. It can also support groups that give local communities choices about what they produce, what they import, and what they consume. Other forms of gastronativism, however, are expressions of nationalist, supremacist, and xenophobic projects that want to maintain or increase inequalities, rendering immigrants, ethnic minorities, and underprivileged people as scapegoats to make up for fears of loss of social prestige, status, and economic well-being. Parasecoli explores both the exclusionary and the non-exclusionary forms of this global trend"-- Provided by publisher Table of Contents Preface Acknowledgments Introduction: Enter Gastronativism Part I: Gastronativism 1. Defending Privilege: Exclusionary Gastronativism 2. Toward a Better Future: Non-Exclusionary Gastronativism Part II: The Power of Food 3. Food and Identity 4. Food and Power Part III: Borders and Flows 5. Food, Nations, and Nationalism 6. Food and Diplomacy 7. National Products in the Global Market Part IV: Between Here and There 8. Migrant Food 9. Contagions Conclusion: What Future? Notes Index Fabio Parasecoli identifies and defines the phenomenon of "gastronativism," the ideological use of food to advance ideas about who belongs to a community and who does not. Featuring a wide array of examples from all over the world, this book is a timely, incisive, and lively analysis of how and why food has become a powerful political tool.