غذا، نوشیدنی و هویت: آشپزی، خوردن و نوشیدن در اروپا از دوران میانه

Food and drink have provided fascinating insights into cultural patterns in consumer societies. There is an intimate relationship between food and identity but processes of identity formation through food are far from clear. This book adds a new perspective to the existing body of scholarship by addressing pivotal questions: is food central or marginal to identity construction? Does food equally matter for all group(ing)s? Why would, in people's experience, food become especially important at one moment, or, on the contrary, lose its significance? The origin of food habits is also interrogated. Contributors investigate how, when, why and by whom cooking, eating and drinking were used as a means of distinction. Leading historians and sociologists look at concepts of authenticity, adjustment, invention and import, as well as food signs and codes, and why they have been accepted or rejected. They examine a wide range of periods and topics: the elderly, alcohol and identity in Early Modern Europe; food riots and national identity; noble families, eating and drinking in eighteenth-century Spain; consumption and the working class in the nineteenth century; commensality; the meaning of Champagne in Belle-Epoque France; the narrative of food in Norway; wine and bread in French Algeria; food and identity in post-war Germany. This intriguing book brings together new, comparative insights and research that allow a better understanding of processes of integration and segregation, the role of food in the construction of identity, and the relationship between old and new food habits. Notes on Contributors......Page 8 Foreword......Page 12 Part I Overture......Page 14 A Starter: Some Meditations on Gastronomy......Page 16 One’s Place in the World......Page 18 Feelings of Belonging, and Food......Page 20 Identity and Historical Food Studies......Page 23 The Scope of this Book......Page 25 –2–Commensality and Social Morphology:An Essay of Typology......Page 36 Domestic Commensality, Institutional Commensality......Page 38 Everyday Commensality, Exceptional Commensality......Page 40 Segregative Commensality, Transgressive Commensality......Page 41 Part II Class and Group Identities......Page 48 –3–Upholding Status: The Diet of a Noble Familyin Early Nineteenth-Century La Mancha......Page 50 Almagro: Agriculture and Herding......Page 53 Some Unexpected Features in a Traditional Aristocratic Diet......Page 55 The Casa as a Factory......Page 65 The End of an Era, the Ruin of a Family......Page 67 Conclusion......Page 68 – 4–Promise of More. The Rhetoric of (Food)Consumption in a Society Searching for Itself:West Germany in the 1950s......Page 76 Black-market Experience, and Confidence in Good Money......Page 77 A New Horizon after Years of Restraint......Page 79 Connecting to the World......Page 82 Exuberant Signs......Page 84 The (Gendered) Meaning of Canned Food......Page 87 Healthy and Slim......Page 89 Conclusions......Page 91 –5–Identification Process at Work:Virtues of the Italian Working-ClassDiet in the First Half of theTwentieth Century......Page 94 Peasant Frugality as a Virtue in the Inter-war Years......Page 95 Post-war Diets: “Facing Poverty after having Lost its Place inthe Sun”......Page 103 Concluding: the Italian Way of Eating . . . Moderately......Page 107 – 6 –A Bourgeois Good? Sugar, Norms ofConsumption and the Labouring Classes inNineteenth-Century France......Page 112 The Uses of Sugar......Page 115 Classifying Sugar......Page 117 Introducing a Norm of Consumption......Page 120 Conclusion......Page 125 Alcohol in Late Medieval and Early Modern Europe......Page 132 The Old in Late Medieval and Early Modern Europe......Page 135 Alcohol and the Old: The Reality......Page 137 Alcohol and the Old: The Rhetoric......Page 138 Alcohol, the Old and Medical Opinion......Page 140 Sex and Alcohol......Page 141 The Sociability of Drinking......Page 143 Part IIINational Identities......Page 152 –8–The National Nutrition Exhibition:A New Nutritional Narrative inNorway in the 1930s......Page 154 Building and Exhibition, Form and Content, Words and Images......Page 156 The Exhibition......Page 159 Some Notes on Norwegian Modernity in the 1930s......Page 161 Vitamins – “these wonderful substances”......Page 165 Who Were the Recipients?......Page 168 Returning to the Web of Narratives......Page 170 –9–Wine, Champagne and the Making ofFrench Identity in the Belle Epoque......Page 176 Appellations d’Origine......Page 178 The Origins of the War......Page 182 Conclusions......Page 185 –10–Reading Food Riots: Scarcity,Abundance and National Identity......Page 192 A Historiography of Food Riots......Page 195 Cultural Meanings of Food in Food Disturbances: An AmericanBackdrop......Page 200 –11–French Bread and Algerian Wine:Conflicting Identities inFrench Algeria......Page 208 Bread as a Staple......Page 209 French Colonisation......Page 213 The Construction of Identity Through Bread and Wine......Page 215 Arab Bread Versus French Bread......Page 216 Wine and Meat......Page 220 Changes in Production Processes and the Gendered Divisionof Labour......Page 222 The Limitations of Bread as Identity Marker......Page 224 Conclusion......Page 227 Index......Page 232 Part 1. Overture -- Chapter 1. Meals, Food Narratives and Sentiments of Belonging in Past and Present / Peter Scholliers -- Chapter 2. Commensality and Social Morphology: An Essay of Typology / Claude Grignon -- Part 2. Class and Group Identities -- --Chapter 3. Upholding Status: The Diet of a Noble Family in Early Nineteenth-Century La Mancha / Carmen Sarasúa -- Chapter 4. Promise of More. The Rhetoric of (Food) Consumption in a Society Searching for Itself: West Germany in the 1950s / Michael Wildt --Chapter 5. Identification Process at Work: Virtues of the Italian Working-Class Diet in the First Half of the Twentieth Century / Paolo Sorcinelli -- Chapter 6. A Bourgeois Good? Sugar, Norms of Consumption and the Labouring Classes in Nineteenth-Century France / Martin Bruegel -- Chapter 7. Old People, Alcohol and Identity in Europe, 1300-1700 / A. Lynn Martin -- Part 3. National Identities -- Chapter 8. The National Nutrition Exhibition: A New Nutritional Narrative in Norway in the 1930s / Inger Johanne Lynge1 -- Chapter 9. Wine, Champagne and the Making of French Identity in the Belle Epoque / Kolleen M. Guy -- Chapter 10. Reading Food Riots: Scarcity, Abundance and National Identity / Amy Bentley -- Chapter 11. French Bread and Algerian Wine: Conflicting Identities in French Algeria / Willy Jansen -- Index Meals, Food Narratives, And Sentiments Of Belonging In Past And Present / Peter Scholliers -- Commensality And Social Morphology : An Essay Of Typology / Claude Grignon -- Upholding Status : The Diet Of A Noble Family In Early Nineteenth-century La Mancha / Carmen Sarasúa -- Promise Of More. The Rhetoric Of (food) Consumption In A Society Searching For Itself : West Germany In The 1950s / Michael Wildt -- Identification Process At Work : Virtues Of The Italian Working-class Diet In The First Half Of The Twentieth Century / Paolo Sorcinelli -- Bourgeois Good? Sugar, Norms Of Consumption And The Labouring Classes In Nineteenth-century France / Martin Bruegel -- Old People, Alcohol And Identity In Europe, 1300-1700 / A. Lynn Martin -- National Nutrition Exhibition : A New Nutritional Narrative In Norway In The 1930s / Inger Johanne Lyngo -- Wine, Champagne And The Making Of French Identity In The Belle Epoque / Kolleen M. Guy -- Reading Food Riots : Scarcity, Abundance And National Identity / Amy Bentley -- French Bread And Algerian Wine : Conflicting Identities In French Algeria / Willy Jansen. Edited By Peter Scholliers. Includes Bibliographical References And Index.