Film and Fashions : FIFA. Documenting Fashion

## Offers the first edited collection with an explicit documentary focus on fashion icons, events, cultures and industries * Investigates the bearings of the documentary image and its visual politics in relation to fashion * Pushes forward new understandings of how different media and platforms, such as documentary feature films, television factual programmes, online videos, fashion exhibitions, edutainment and industrial films, interrogate ‘the real’ in relation to fashion * Considers a wide range of both contemporary and historical case studies, including analysis of fashion documentaries, fashion-series on television and online videos, including __Queer Eye__ (2018), __Follow Me__ (2017), __Bill Cunningham New York__ (2010), and __McQueen__ (2018) * Includes two expanding interviews, one with Alexandra Palmer, senior fashion curator at Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, and one with Lorna Tucker, director of __Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activists__ (2018) Feuds within fashion houses, megalomaniacs and photoshoot nightmares – fashion and drama have been a perfect match for decades. Over the past ten years, we have witnessed a boom of documentaries about fashion magazine editors, fashion and media politics and the history of fashion houses. How and why did fashion documentaries and non-fiction media become so popular? __Documenting Fashion__ explores and reassesses the role of documentary media by tracing its history in shaping our understanding of fashion across multiple platforms and different national contexts, including industrial films, newsreels, TV shows, documentary films, digital media and photography. The essays in this collection underpin and profile a scholarly space in which a dialogue between fashion and documentary studies can evolve by drawing from different methodologies and approaches, such as media and cultural studies, ethnography, archival and museum studies, gender studies, marketing and public relations. Contents Figures Acknowledgements Notes on contributors Introduction Part I: Film Chapter 1 Fashion documentaries and the tension between celebratory and critical approaches Expanding interview 1 Elena Caoduro in conversation with Lorna Tucker, director of Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018) Chapter 2. ‘The Helen Rose originals are fabulous’: the fashion featurette and fashion show as sites of industrial reflexivity Chapter 3. The fashion of east and west in German cinema newsreels (1950–65) Chapter 4. ‘Third way’ teenage fashion: housewives’ films documenting ideals of middle-class youth culture in 1950s Sweden Chapter 5. A maverick on the streets: Bill Cunningham and the documentary process Chapter 6. Extending the exhibition narrative: making sense of non-fiction fashion footage Expanding interview 2 Boel Ulfsdotter in conversation with Alexandra Palmer at Royal Ontario Museum, Canada Chapter 7. Documenting fashion history: television and the temporalities of cultural remembrance Chapter 8. Italian ready-to-wear fashion through Cori-carousels Chapter 9. Fashioning self-care: Queer Eye, affect and makeover culture Part III: Digital media Chapter 10. From newsreel to ‘see now, buy now’: a genealogy of the fashion show live stream Chapter 11. Documenting fashion in the era of Instagram: a critical reading of Asri Bendacha’s Follow Me and Chiara Ferragni’s Unposted Index