Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (Dress, Body, Culture, 5)

When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930s Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail. Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Ones allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an authentic Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics. Contents......Page 8 List of Figures......Page 10 Acknowledgements......Page 12 Fashion and Italian Identity: An Ongoing Process and Love Affair......Page 14 The Bella Figura and the Fashioned Self. The Birth of a Discourse on Dress and the Craze for Fashion in Renaissance Italy......Page 19 Inventing the Italian Look: Between Modernity and Tradition......Page 30 Fashion, Culture and National Identity. Rosa Genoni and the Futurists......Page 40 The “New Woman” and Fascism. Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion......Page 49 “An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it”......Page 59 The Discourse on Fashion Under the Fascist Regime. An Italian Dictionary and Commentary of Fashion by Cesare Meano......Page 70 Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women’s Writing in Bellezza......Page 81 The Commentario and Nationalism......Page 88 Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity......Page 92 Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime......Page 99 From Hollywood to France. From France to Italy: Alessandro Blasetti’s Contessa di Parma......Page 104 The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy......Page 112 Grandi Magazzini and Standardization......Page 134 Cinegiornali on Fashion: Standardization, Stereotypes and Models of Femininity......Page 141 I Grandi Magazzini by Mario Camerini as a Popular Novel......Page 143 The National Conference on “Clothing and Autarchy,” Turin, June 1940......Page 148 6 Conclusion......Page 160 Appendix: Interview with Micol Fontana......Page 168 Illustrations......Page 182 Notes......Page 192 Bibliography......Page 216 B......Page 228 C......Page 229 E......Page 230 F......Page 231 H......Page 233 L......Page 234 M......Page 235 P......Page 236 R......Page 237 T......Page 238 V......Page 239 Z......Page 240 "When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930s Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail.Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Ones allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an authentic Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today.This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics."--Bloomsbury Publishing. When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930's Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail. Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vivdly reflected political tyranny. One's allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an 'authentic' Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics. -- From back cover

Prada, Gucci, Max Mara: high fashion is synonymous with luxury, glamor, pleasure, and Italy. Yet Italian fashion also has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930's Italy dominated more than just politics--it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail. Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics.

Prada, Gucci, Max Mara: 'alta moda' is synonymous with luxury, glamour and pleasure. Yet Italian fashion also has a dark history. The fascism of 1930's Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. 'Fashion under Fascism' considers this link in detail.