Fashion and Orientalism : Dress, Textiles and Culture From the 17th to the 21st Century

Fashion and Orientalism is an important book that enhances our historical knowledge and intellectual understanding of its subject. Through detailed description and analysis, Adam Geczy contributes to the growing scholarship that seeks a more subtle understanding of the complex discourse of Orientalism and the conscious and unconscious ways that it has had an impact on Western fashion and dress. (Hazel Clark, Research Chair of Fashion, Parsons the New School for Design, New York, USA) Geczy opens our eyes to an understanding of fashion as an exchange of values between Asia and the West for the past 500 years. This timely, patiently researched, brilliantly written book will become the standard reference for the field and a must-read for anyone interested in the intersections of cultural studies, art history and philosophy. (Melissa Chiu, Director, Asia Society Museum, New York, USA) The breadth of Orientalism in this book gives it the ability to bring readers up with a start as they recognize elements from their own lives. (Michael Carter, author of Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes) Orientalism Is A Central Factor Within The Fashion System, Both Subtle And Overt. In This Timely And Groundbreaking Book, The Author Shows The Extent Of The Influence That The Orient Had, And Continues To Have, On Fashion. Our Concept Of Western Fashion Is Unthinkable Without It, Whether In Terms Of The Growth Of The Cotton Industry Or Of Garments We Take For Granted, Such As The Dressing Gown. From Pre-modern To Contemporary Times, This Book Demonstrates That, In The Realms Of Fashion, The Orient Is Not Simply A Construction Or A Fascination Of The Imperial West With Its Eastern Other. Rather, It Reveals The Extent Of Cross-pollination, Exchange And Multiple Translation That Has Taken Place Between East And West For The Last 500 Years.exploring Topics Including Chinoiserie, Masquerade, Bohemianism, Japonisme, The De-orientalization Of The Orient, Perfume And The Birth Of Couture, Fashion And Orientalism Is An Essential Read For Students And Scholars Of Fashion, Cultural Studies And History. Note Continued: 4.1868-1944: The Japoniste Revolution, The Deorientalizing Of The Orient And The Birth Of Couture -- Japonism And The Kimono -- Deorientalizing Japan -- Deorientalizing Turkey -- Couture, Art And Costume: From Poiret To The Ballets Russes -- Paquin -- Fortuny -- The Interwar Years: The Orient In Early Film -- 5.1944-2011: Postwar Revivalism And Transorientalism -- Hippies And Counterculture In The 1960s And 1970s -- Perfume -- The New Japanese Revolution In French Couture -- Postmodern And Contemporary Couture -- Reorienting And Self-orientalizing The Orient -- The Burqa Wars Adam Geczy. Originally Published: 2003. Includes Bibliographical References And Index. Fashion and Orientalism Contents List of Illustrations Introduction 1 Early Orientalism and the Barbaresque Luxury Textiles and the Beginnings of the Silk Trade Venice Textiles in Western Europe Cotton and Chintz Charles II and the Origins of the Vest Chinoiserie and Orientalism in Louis XIV’s France Lachinage and the Visit of the Siamese Ambassadors in France 2 1690–1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania Textiles Banyans and Fans Chinoiserie Design and Art Masquerade Theatre and Music Institutionalizing Turquerie Mary Montagu and the Special Case of Masquerade Late-eighteenth Century and the Revolution Egyptomania Military Costume and Weaponry 3 1815–1871: Turkophilia, Afromania and the Indes Bohemianism Travellers, Adventurers and Exiles Cashmere Shawls Paisley British Orientalist Textiles and Design after 1851 Arthur Lazenby Liberty Other Women’s Fashions before Couture 4 1868–1944: The Japoniste Revolution, the Deorientalizing of the Orient and the Birth of Couture Japonism and the Kimono Deorientalizing Japan Deorientalizing Turkey Couture, Art and Costume: From Poiret to the Ballets Russes Paquin Fortuny The Interwar Years: The Orient in Early Film 5 1944–2011: Postwar Revivalism and Transorientalism Hippies and Counterculture in the 1960s and 1970s Perfume The New Japanese Revolution in French Couture Postmodern and Contemporary Couture Reorienting and Self-orientalizing the Orient The Burqa Wars Conclusion: The Revenge of China Notes Bibliography Index 1. Early orientalism and the barbaresque : Luxury textiles and the beginnings of the silk trade Venice Textiles in Western Europe Cotton and chintz Charles II and the origins of the vest Chinoiserie and orientalism in Louis XIV's France Lachinage and the visit of the Siamese Ambassadors in France 2. 1690-1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania : Textiles Banyans and fans Chinoisserie design and art Masquerade Theatre and music Institutionalizing Turquerie Mary Montagu and the special case of masquerade Late-eighteenth century and the revolution Egyptomania Military costume and weaponry 3. 1815-1871: Turkophilia, Afromania and the Indes : Bohemianism Travellers, adventurers and exiles Cashmere shawls Paisley British orientalism textiles and design after 1851 Arthur Lazenby Liberty Other women's fashions before couture 4. 1868-1944: The Japoniste revolution, the deorientalizing of the Orient and the birth of couture : Japonism and the kimono Deorientalizing Japan Deorientalizing Turkey Couture, art and costume: from Poiret to the Ballets Russes Paquin Fortuny The interwar years: the Orient in early film 5. 1944-2011: Postwar revivalism and transorientalism : Hippies and counterculture in the 1960s and 1970s Perfume The new Japanese revolution in French couture Postmodern and contemporary couture Reorienting and self-orientalizing the Orient The burqa wars Conclusion : The revenge of China. This timely and groundbreaking book shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion, and reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last five hundred years. Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion.Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last 500 years.Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history "Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern-other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West over the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history"--Page 4 of cover "Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern-other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West over the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the 'de-Orientalization' of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history"--Back cover. Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, the book demonstrates that in the realms of fashion the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last five hundred years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the 'de-Orientalisation' of the Orient, perfume, and the birth of couture, 'Fashion and Orientalism' is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history.