Fallen Giants : A History of Himalayan Mountaineering From the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes

The story of the world’s highest peaks and the remarkable people who have sought to climb them. The first successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa teammate Tenzing Norgay is a familiar saga, but less well known are the tales of many other adventurers who also came to test their skills and courage against the world’s highest and most dangerous mountains. In this lively and generously illustrated book, historians Maurice Isserman and Stewart Weaver present the first comprehensive history of Himalayan mountaineering in fifty years. They offer detailed, original accounts of the most significant climbs since the 1890s, and they compellingly evoke the social and cultural worlds that gave rise to those expeditions. The book recounts the adventures of such figures as Martin Conway, who led the first authentic Himalayan climbing expedition in 1892; Fanny Bullock Workman, the pioneer explorer of the Karakoram range; George Mallory, the romantic martyr of Mount Everest fame; Charlie Houston, who led American expeditions to K2 in the 1930s and 1950s; Ang Tharkay, the legendary Sherpa, and many others. Throughout, the authors discuss the effects of political and social change on the world of mountaineering, and they offer a penetrating analysis of a culture that once emphasized teamwork and fellowship among climbers, but now has been eclipsed by a scramble for individual fame and glory.

the First Successful Ascent Of Mount Everest In 1953 By Sir Edmund Hillary And His Sherpa Teammate Tenzing Norgay Is A Familiar Saga, But Less Well Known Are The Tales Of Many Other Adventurers Who Also Came To Test Their Skills And Courage Against The World's Highest And Most Dangerous Mountains. In This Lively And Generously Illustrated Book, Historians Maurice Isserman And Stewart Weaver Present The First Comprehensive History Of Himalayan Mountaineering In Fifty Years. They Offer Detailed, Original Accounts Of The Most Significant Climbs Since The 1890s, And They Compellingly Evoke The Social And Cultural Worlds That Gave Rise To Those Expeditions.

The Book Recounts The Adventures Of Such Figures As Martin Conway, Who Led The First Authentic Himalayan Climbing Expedition In 1892; Fanny Bullock Workman, The Pioneer Explorer Of The Karakoram Range; George Mallory, The Romantic Martyr Of Mount Everest Fame; Charlie Houston, Who Led American Expeditions To K2 In The 1930s And 1950s; Ang Tharkay, The Legendary Sherpa, And Many Others. Throughout, The Authors Discuss The Effects Of Political And Social Change On The World Of Mountaineering, And They Offer A Penetrating Analysis Of A Culture That Once Emphasized Teamwork And Fellowship Among Climbers, But Now Has Been Eclipsed By A Scramble For Individual Fame And Glory.

the New York Times - Bruce Barcott

the Authors Tease Out The Evolution Of Modern Mountaineering, Combining Vivid Storytelling With An Eye For Detail, Accuracy And Fairness…fallen Giants Is The Book Of A Lifetime For Its Authors, An Awe-inspiring Work Of History And Storytelling. They've Scoured Mountaineering Archives In India, Germany, Britain And The United States, And Drawn From Nearly 500 Books And Articles, From The Famous To The Obscure. Their Endnotes And Bibliography Run To More Than 100 Pages. Isserman And Weaver Brilliantly Present The Complete Picture—the Political Context, The Changing Social Dynamics, The Emergence Of Modern Climbing Technique—without Losing Sight Of The Need To Entertain. fallen Giants Absolutely Brims With Vivid Characters, From The Duke Of The Abruzzi To George Mallory To Aleister Crowley (mr. 666, A Himalayan Climber—who Knew?) To Tenzing Norgay To Reinhold Messner, Hard Men And Egotists, Saints And Scoundrels. Armchair Mountaineers Will Give The Book Pride Of Place In Their Collections. A Word, Though: Keep It On A Low Shelf, Where Boys And Girls Can Discover It And Start Dreaming Of Their Own Expeditions.

This lively and engaging history of Himalayan mountaineering offers detailed, compelling accounts of the most notable expeditions since the 1890s and evokes the social and cultural worlds out of which they emerged.

The New York Times - Bruce Barcott

The authors tease out the evolution of modern mountaineering, combining vivid storytelling with an eye for detail, accuracy and fairness…Fallen Giants is the book of a lifetime for its authors, an awe-inspiring work of history and storytelling. They've scoured mountaineering archives in India, Germany, Britain and the United States, and drawn from nearly 500 books and articles, from the famous to the obscure. Their endnotes and bibliography run to more than 100 pages. Isserman and Weaver brilliantly present the complete picture—the political context, the changing social dynamics, the emergence of modern climbing technique—without losing sight of the need to entertain. Fallen Giants absolutely brims with vivid characters, from the Duke of the Abruzzi to George Mallory to Aleister Crowley (Mr. 666, a Himalayan climber—who knew?) to Tenzing Norgay to Reinhold Messner, hard men and egotists, saints and scoundrels. Armchair mountaineers will give the book pride of place in their collections. A word, though: keep it on a low shelf, where boys and girls can discover it and start dreaming of their own expeditions.

All has been said about the problem with maps, and I concur. I also agree with the reviewer from Spain about the anglo saxon and anglophile bias of the book. I would add that the authors are unfair and judgmental when talking about climbers of recent years. The old amateur (noble, romantic, selfless and idealistic) vs pro mountaineer (self centered, materialistic and unfeeling) comparison ignores the fact that the "gentlemen" of the old days came from the privileged classes and did not have to worry about how to make a living AND pay for expeditions. I particularly disliked the portraying of John Roskelley obviously colored by Andy Harvard and Peter Lev's opinions (see acknowledgments and bibliographies). Anyone who read accounts of the 1976 Nanda Devi expedition knows that Harvard and Lev were at odds with Roskelley almost throughout the trip. Otherwise a fascinating, gripping history of Himalayan climbing, told in the context of the times of each expedition, with portrait of mountaineers not only as athletes but as men and women with the qualities and flaws of the era of which they were the products. "In this illustrated book, historians Maurice Isserman and Stewart Weaver present the first comprehensive history of Himalayan mountaineering in fifty years. They offer detailed, original accounts of the most significant climbs since the 1890s, and they compellingly evoke the social and cultural worlds that gave rise to those expeditions." "The book recounts the adventures of such figures as Martin Conway, who led the first authentic Himalayan climbing expedition in 1892; Fanny Bullock Workman, the pioneer explorer of the Karakoram range; George Mallory, the romantic martyr of Mount Everest fame; Charlie Houston, who led American expeditions to K2 in the 1930s and 1950s; Ang Tharkay, the legendary Sherpa, and many others. Throughout, the authors discuss the effects of political and social change on the world of mountaineering, and they offer a penetrating analysis of a culture that once emphasized teamwork and fellowship among climbers, but now has been eclipsed by a scramble for individual fame and glory."--Jacket Table of Contents 8 Preface: A Fallen Giant 10 Chapter 1: When Men and Mountains Meet 14 Chapter 2: The Age of Empire, 1892-1914 46 Chapter 3: “Because It Is There”: George Mallory and the Fight for Everest, 1921-1924 96 Chapter 4: “A Random Harvest of Delight,” 1929-1933 140 Chapter 5: “Himalayan Hey-Day,” 1934-1939 178 Chapter 6: The Golden Age Postponed, 1940-1950 236 Chapter 7: “Don’t Be a Chicken-Hearted Fellow”: Everest, 1950-1953 267 Chapter 8: The Golden Age of Himalayan Climbing, 1953-1960 308 Chapter 9: New Frontiers, New Faces, 1961-1970 363 Chapter 10: The Age of Extremes, 1970-1996 411 Notes 468 Bibliography 552 Index 578 Offers accounts of the most significant climbs of the Himalayan mountains since the 1890s, and evokes the social and cultural worlds that gave rise to those expeditions. This book discusses the effects of political and social change on the world of mountaineering. The First Comprehensive History Of Himalayan Mountaineering In Fifty Years Offers Detailed, Original Accounts Of The Most Significant Climbs Since The 1890s And Discusses The Effects Of Political And Social Change On The World Of Mountaineering.