Dress at the court of King Henry VIII the wardrobe book of the wardrobe of the robes prepared by James Worsley in December 1516, edited from Harley MS 2284, and his Inventory prepared on 17 January 1521, edited from Harley MS 4217, both in the British Lib

'The Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley in December 1516, edited from Harley MS 2284, and his Inventory prepared on 17 January 1521, edited from Harley MS 4217, both in the British Library'. This book focuses on the dress of one royal individual, Henry and his physique, portraiture, personal wardrobe, jewellery, regalia and ceremonial robes. It is the only other substantial record of the king's clothes in English archives on wardrobe and inventory. Cover Half Title Dedication Title Page Copyright Page Table of Contents Acknowledgements Abbreviations of Principal Works Cited Introduction I Henry VIII: The Man and his Image Henry VIII’s physical form The king’s painted image Charting change in the king’s appearance II Henry VIII: European Prince and King of England Magnificence and the role of royal dress Asserting royal authority through dress Creating a sense of Englishness through dress Henry VIII in a European context Henry VIII’s interaction with the three leading European powers The Papacy The Holy Roman Empire The Ottoman Empire Royal wardrobes and royal style: analysis of four case-studies Elegant conspicuous consumption of clothes: Francis I Following French fashion: James V Growing disinterest: Charles V Masking failure: Christian II III Creating Magnificence: The Role of the Great Wardrobe The great wardrobe: its function, premises and staff The queen’s wardrobe Great wardrobe documentation: warrants and accounts Evidence of clothing provision found in other royal accounts The price of magnificence: the budget for the great wardrobe Selecting fabric for the king Other royal fabric stores Suppliers to the great wardrobe An absence of objects made by the great wardrobe IV The Cycle of Royal Life: Coronations to Funerals Coronations The regalia Coronation robes The joint coronation of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon Individual coronations: Henry VII and Edward VI Mary I and Elizabeth I Queen consorts Elizabeth of York Anne Boleyn Henry’s other queens Betrothals/Marriage by proxy VIII’s betrothals Prince Arthur to Catherine of Aragon Margaret Tudor to James IV of Scotland Mary Tudor to Charles Prince of Castile Mary Tudor to Louis XII of France Princess Mary to Francis the Dauphin Princess Mary and Charles V Prince Edward and Mary Queen of Scots Marriage Henry VIII Catherine of Aragon Anne Boleyn Jane Seymour Anne of Cleves Catherine Howard Catherine, Lady Latimer (née Parr) Establishing the dynasty: Henry VII and Elizabeth of York Prince Arthur and Catherine of Aragon Margaret Tudor and James IV of Scotland Mary Tudor and Louis XII of France Christenings Henry VII’s children Henry VIII’s children Other royal christenings Churchings Preparation for death: Henry VII Obsequies: the living remembering the dead Funerals and burial Henry VIII Henry VII The Tudor queens: consort Mothers of sons: Elizabeth of York and Jane Seymour The princess dowager: Catherine of Aragon Execution and private burial: Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard Surviving the king: Anne of Cleves and Catherine Parr The king’s sisters: Mary and Margaret Tudor Royal children Infants Adolescents V Henry VII: Establishing the House of Tudor Male dress in the late fifteenth century The Yorkist courts Henry VII The opulence of Henry VII’s court Henry VII’s wardrobe Elizabethof York Lady Margaret Beaufort Henry VII’s children Prince Arthur Princess Margaret Prince Henry Princess Mary Prince Edmund Catherine of Aragon VI Henry VIII’s Wardrobe Unlock’d Henry VIII’s wardrobe: male dress in the first half of the sixteenth century Creating and defining the male image: gowns, doublets and hose Variety in the male wardrobe: the glaudekin, gabardine, cloak, frock, coat, cassock and nightgown Alternatives to the doublet: jackets andjerkins, chammers and shamews Accessories: partlets, placards, stomachers, petticoats and tippets Clothes for bathing Sporting dress Clothes for combat and the tilt yard: brigandines, bases and base coats, arming doublets and hose The king’s linen: shirts, night shirts, night capsand handkerchiefs Headwear Footwear Gloves Girdles Purses and pouches Swords and daggers Walking staffs The king’s jewellery The use of jewels on the king’s clothes Material choices: textiles fit for a king Rainbow colours: the significance of the colour of the king’sclothes Patronage and perquisites: giving away the king’s clothing Gifts and purchases: adding to the king’s wardrobe A point of comparison: the wardrobe of James V VII Henry VIII’s Ceremonial Wardrobe: Observing the Ritual Year The weekly cycle: Sunday observance Days of estate, crown-wearing days and days for wearing purple and scarlet Provision made by the greatwardrobe for Candlemas, Palm Sunday and Maundy Thursday Days of mourning Mourning dress Ceremonial robes The order of the Garter The order of the Golden Fleece The order of St Michael The king’s parliament robes VIII Caring for the King’s Clothes: The Wardrobe of the Robes and the Laundry The king’s wardrobe of the robes: a route to success The queen’s wardrobe of the robes Ordering clothes for the king Caring for the king’sclothes Specific packing materials Transporting clothes Documentation Perfuming the king, his clothes and his rooms The physicalcontext: buildings for storage and rooms for dressing The royal laundry IX Female Fashions at Henry VIII’s Court Choosing a queen Queenship in early modern England The court as a centre of female fashionable dress The form and function of female clothes Undergarments: smocks, shifts, bodies, farthingales and petticoats Principal garments: the gown and the kirtle Items worn inassociation with the gown and the kirtle: foreparts, sleeves, furs and tippets, stomachers, placards, partlets and neckerchiefs Maternity wear Outdoor dress: cloaks and special clothes for riding and walking Informal wear: nightgowns Mourning Accessories: headwear and footwear X An Expression of Individuality: An Analysis of the Wardrobes of Henry VIII’s Wives and Sisters Catherine of Aragon Anne Boleyn Jane Seymour Anne of Cleves Catherine Howard Catherine Parr The queen’s jewels Looking outside his marriage vows: the king’s mistresses Royal siblings: the king’s sisters Margaret, queen of Scots Mary, queen of France XI The King’s Children: Dressed to Impress Consummation, pregnancy and birth Establishing the queen’s chamber and the royal nursery The staff of the nursery Children’s dress Clothing the king’s children Lady Margaret Douglas Princess Mary The duke of Richmond Princess Elizabeth Prince Edward Lady Jane Grey XII The Henrician Court The court The role of a favourite at the Henrician court The duke of Suffolk Thomas Wolsey Thomas Cromwell Symbols of status: the significance of noble robes The ennoblement of peers The creation of knights The knights of the Bath Membership of the order of the Garter Court politics and foreign policy Meetings with the Emperor, 1520 and 1522 The Field of Cloth of Gold, 1520 The meeting at Calais in 1532 Ambassadors Godparenting Gifts of clothing Dress as an expression of treason Noble prisoners and executions Male youth cultureat court Revels, disguisings, mummeries and jousts Celebrating Advent and Christmas Courtly love: St Valentine’s day Dress disguising royalty XIII The Royal Household: Form, Function and Livery Form and function Livery and retaining Types of livery issued within the king’s household The use of two-colour livery Large-scale provision ofsingle-colour livery to the whole household Red livery coats Annual changes in livery colour Badges Lvery collars and other symbols of office XIV Livery for the Households of Henry VII and his Family Henry VII Elizabeth of York Lady Margaret Beaufort The households of the king’s children Royal charity XV Henry VIII’s Household: The Domus Magnificencie and the Domus Providencie The household above stairs The chamber The privy chamber The fool The musicians The chapel royal, the closet and the vestry Medical men The household below stairs XVI Outside the Household: The Stable, the Hunts and Beyond The stable and the master of the horse The king’s ape The king’s hunts The buckhounds The leash The toils The bows and the longbows The falconers Hunt officers not provided for by the great wardrobe The barge Livery issued ‘out of court’ The great wardrobe The king’s works Other government officials Links with cities: caps of maintenance XVII Tudor Military Splendour The yeomen of the guard The band of spears or pensioners The gentleman pensioners Royal messengers The kings of arms, heralds and pursuivants Military roles for Henry VIII’s nobility The rank and file of the king’s military forces Fags and banners Conduct coats France Scotland Ireland Naval expeditions Garrisons Royal entries as part of military campaigns XVIII The Households of Henry VIII’s Wives, Sisters and Children The queen’s household Acquiring a position within the queen’s household The households of Henry VIII’s queens Catherine of Aragon Anne Boleyn Jane Seymour Anne of Cleves Catherine Howard Catherine Parr Short-term provision for the king’s sisters The households of the king’s children Princess Mary The duke of Richmond Princess Elizabeth Prince Edward XIX The Royal Artificers The principal artificers The king's tailor The queen’s tailor The king’s hosier The queen’s hosier The king’s skinner The queen’s skinner The king’ sembroiderer The queen’s embroiderer The king’s silk woman The queen’s silk woman The minor artificers of the royal wardrobe: the king’s armourer to his spurrier The king’s armourer The king’s bit maker The king’s coffer maker The queen’s coffer maker The king’s cordwainer The queen’s cordwainer The king’s cutler The king’s feather maker or plumier The king’s goldsmith The queen’s goldsmith The king’s jeweller The king’s milliner The king’s saddler The queen’s saddler The king’s spurrier XX Making the Tudor Wardrobe Tailoring books Patterns Equipment Selection and orientation of the top fabric Linings Interlinings and facings Padding and stiffening Sewing thread Seams and hems Fit and shaping Fastenings: buttons, clasps, hooks, latchets and pins, dress hooks, lacing, points and girdles Decorative techniques: paning, slashing, cutwork, pinking and clocking Guards, borders, crests and edges Applied trimmings or passementerie Surface decoration: embroidery, quilting, stoolwork and goldsmith’s work Creating a magnificentimpression XXI Transcription Notes The Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley in December 1516, edited from British Library MS Harley 2284 The Inventory of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley on 17 January 1521, edited from British Library MS Harley Glossary Index 1 Document Index Index 2 Index to the Text Colour Plates "Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book encompasses the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and covers the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle. Henry VIII's wardrobe is set in context by a study of Henry VII's clothes, court and household." "As none of Henry VIII's clothes survive, evidence is drawn primarily from the great wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and is interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and a small selection of contemporary garments, mainly from European collections." "Key areas for consideration include the king's personal wardrobe, how Henry VIII's queens used their clothes to define their status, the textiles provided for the pattern of royal coronations, marriages and funerals and the role of the great wardrobe, wardrobe of the robes and laundry. In addition there is information on the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, dress given as gifts, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress within the royal household, and the network of craftsmen working for the court." "The text is accompanied by full transcripts of James Worsley's wardrobe books of 1516 and 1521 which provide a brief glimpse of the king's clothes."--Jacket

Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book encompasses the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and covers the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle. Henry VIII's wardrobe is set in context by a study of Henry VII's clothes, court and household. As none of Henry VIII's clothes survive, evidence is drawn primarily from the great wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and is interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and a small selection of contemporary garments, mainly from European collections. Key areas for consideration include the king's personal wardrobe, how Henry VIII's queens used their clothes to define their status, the textiles provided for the pattern of royal coronations, marriages and funerals and the role of the great wardrobe, wardrobe of the robes and laundry. In addition there is information on the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, dress given as gifts, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress within the royal household, and the network of craftsmen working for the court. The text is accompanied by full transcripts of James Worsley's wardrobe books of 1516 and 1521 which provide a brief glimpse of the king's clothes.