Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe

One hundred surviving garments are discussed with colour plates. Ranging from high art to homely, some are associated with known persons, others are anonymous, yet their histories – of recycling, repairing, augmenting – illuminate times when textile was handmade and precious. Contents 7 Preface 11 List of Illustrations 12 The Authors 14 Notes 15 General Introduction 17 Origins of the Study 17 Scope of the Study 17 Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete) Garments 26 Chance Finds 26 Burial Dress 27 Finds from Archaeological Excavations 28 Items of Dress Surviving in Treasuries 29 Garments of Unknown Origin 30 Life after Life/Afterlife 31 Sets and Collections of Garments 31 Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques; Non-Textile Materials; Embroidered Decoration 36 Inscriptions 37 Iconography 38 Imperial/Royal Iconography 38 Christian Iconography 38 Heraldry and Other Decoration of Secular Significance 40 Everyday Wear 40 Style and Fashion 42 A Final Word 44 1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre 45 Introduction 45 1.1 Orkney Hood 49 1.2 Bocksten Hood 53 1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap 57 1.4 Cap of St Birgitta 61 1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion 65 1.6 Little Sampford Hat 67 1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 71 1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg 75 1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and St Stephen 79 1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham 83 2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles 86 Introduction 86 2.1 ‘Star Mantle’ of Emperor Henry II 91 2.2 ‘Coronation Mantle’ of King Stephen of Hungary 97 2.3 Mantle of King Roger II of Sicily 101 2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia 107 2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto IV 111 2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 115 2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde 117 2.8 Syon Cope 121 2.9 Hildesheim Cope 127 2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope 131 3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble 136 Introduction 136 3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis 139 3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble 143 3.3 Castel Sant’Elia Chasuble as Reliquary 147 3.4 Clare Chasuble 151 3.5 Melk Chasuble 155 3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble 159 3.7 Erpingham Chasuble 163 3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble 167 3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross 171 3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich 173 4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb 175 Introduction 175 4.1 Bocksten Tunic 179 4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves 181 4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves 183 4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi 187 4.5 Shirt of St Louis 191 4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket 195 4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht 199 4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne 203 4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich 207 4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels 209 5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and Tunicle 213 Introduction 213 5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 217 5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón 219 5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando 221 5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda 225 5.5 ‘Golden Gown’ of Queen Margaret 227 5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich 233 5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic 237 5.8 Göss Dalmatic 241 5.9 Tunicle of Pere d’Urg 245 5.10 ‘Eagle Dalmatic’ of the Holy Roman Empire 249 6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded Garment, Coat-Like Garment 251 Introduction 251 6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 255 6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France 257 6.3 Rationale from Regensberg 261 6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown 265 6.5 Rothwell Jack 269 6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince 271 6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois 275 6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France 279 6.9 Guibbone of Don Garçia de’Medici 283 6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo I de’Medici 287 7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin 289 Introduction 289 7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 293 7.2 Bocksten Hose 297 7.3 Greenland Stocking 301 7.4 Garter from London 303 7.5 Sock from York 307 7.6 Sock from Uppsala 309 7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus 311 7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement II 315 7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 319 7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter 323 8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical Girdle, Humeral Veil 325 Introduction 325 8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda 329 8.2 Belt of Witgar 333 8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing 337 8.4 Pallium and Casing ‘aux Lièvres’ of Saint Caesarius of Arles 341 8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 343 8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich 349 8.7 Heraldic Stole 353 8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St Harlindis 357 8.9 Amice from Munich 361 8.10 Amice from Cologne 363 9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten 364 Introduction 364 9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg 369 9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York 373 9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe 377 9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen 381 9.5 London Poulaine 385 9.6 London Patten 389 9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting 393 9.8 Shoes of St Germanus 397 9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 401 9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter 403 10 Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress Decoration or Cloak Ties 405 Introduction 405 10.1 Icelandic Naalbinding Mitten 411 10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland 413 10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa 417 10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves 423 10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham 425 10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln 429 10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda 433 10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia 437 10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham 441 10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 445 Glossary 447 Index 453 An astonishing number of medieval garments survive, more-or-less complete. Here the authors present 100 items, ranging from homely to princely. The book's wide-ranging introduction discusses the circumstances in which garments have survived to the present; sets and collections; constructional and decorative techniques; iconography; inscriptions on garments; style and fashion. Detailed descriptions and discussions explain technique and ornament, investigate alleged associations with famous people (many of them spurious) and demonstrate, even when there are no known associations, how a garment may reveal its own biography: a story that can include repair, remaking, recycling; burial, resurrection and veneration; accidental loss or deliberate deposition. The authors both have many publications in the field of medieval studies, including previous collaborations on medieval textiles such as Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100: an Annotated Bibliography (2007), the Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles (2012) and online bibliographies.