Clothing Alterations and Repairs: Maintaining a Sustainable Wardrobe

A detailed, step-by-step guide to successfully altering and repairing ready-made apparel that will help you achieve the perfect fit and extend the life of your clothing. Whether you are interested in tailoring your wardrobe, starting a business, or learning a skill that will save you money and the planet, you'll find what you need through illustrated step-by-step projects and no-nonsense videos. You'll learn to make alterations to your ready-made clothing, including a variety of hemming techniques and taking in/ letting out seams, and repair methods to fix zippers, tears, and holes. There are also detailed guidelines on more complex techniques, including adjusting suit jacket sleeves, reshaping necklines and even fixing backpacks, tents and bags. Cover CONTENTS Preface Introduction 1 How to Use This Book and Tools of the Trade How to Use This Book Clothing Alterations Repairs Tools of the Trade 2 Working With Alterations, Repairs, and Clients Before You Get Started Step One: Organizing Your Space Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs Finding the Problem Step Three: Working With Clients Identifying Fabric 3 Bottom Hems Shortening Serge and Blind Hem: Three Methods Twice Turn Hem Cadet Cut Hem Knitwear Coverstitch Hem Knitwear Faux Coverstitch Using a Twin Needle Twice-Turned Hem on Eveningwear and Formalwear Napkin Roll Hem Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/Pick Stitch Lengthening Bottom Hems Maxing Out Bias Tape Adding Fabric Adding Lace 4 Top Hems Shortening Knitwear Coverstitch Knitwear Faux Coverstitch Using a Twin Needle Shirttail Hem Lined Suit Jacket Hem Unlined Suit Jacket Hem Lengthening Lengthening Suit Jacket Hem 5 Taking In Bottoms Back Gap Waistbands: Using Elastic Side Seams/Outseams and Inseam Tips Side Seams/Outseams Inseams Darts/Pleats/Tucks Ease/Gathers Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper 6 Letting Out Bottoms Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance Waistbands: Using Elastic Waistbands: Using Gussets/Fabric Panels 7 Jeans Taking In the Center Back/Back Gap Jeans Hem With Option to Distress Original Jeans Hem Taking In the Outseams/Inseams 8 Taking In Tops Side Seams Princess Seams/Darts on Front Top Princess Seams/Darts on Back Top Pleats/Tucks Boned Bodices in Formalwear 9 Letting Out Tops Side Seams Panels Boned Bodices in Formalwear 10 Sleeves, Shoulders, and Armscyes When to Say “No!” Taking Up Shoulders Taking In Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets 11 Crotch Seams How to Measure Crotch Seams Taking In Crotch Seams Letting Out Crotch Seams Adding Gussets 12 Necklines and Collars Collar/Neckline Types Reshaping Necklines Collar Adjustments 13 Repairs Buttons Decorative Patches/Visible Mending Darning Zippers Linings Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings Hook and Loop Tape Outdoor/Other Gear Waterproof Gear Resources Glossary Acknowledgements Index