Chemical Management in Textiles and Fashion (The Textile Institute Book Series)

__Chemical Management in Textiles and Fashion__ helps readers understand current pressures on the textile industry surrounding the responsible management of chemicals. The book was written in response to industrial movements like Greenpeace’s Detox Campaign and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals, which have both helped to motivate retailers, manufacturers and regulatory bodies on this issue. Chapters cover the entire supply chain, taking into account the use of chemicals in processing, manufacturing and recycling garments. In addition to environmental sustainability, this valuable resource covers all the main aspects of chemical management, including chemical risk assessments, chemical management systems, and lifecycle assessment. While providing a survey of the latest regulations and standards on chemical management, this book also examines emerging green alternatives to help readers find innovative solutions for sustainable chemical processes. Chemical Management in Textiles and Fashion Copyright Contents List of Contributors 1 Chemical management system in textiles 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Chemical management system 1.3 Restricted substance list and manufacturing restricted substance list 1.4 Regulation and labeling schemes 1.5 Practical feasibilities and challenges 1.6 Knowledge and awareness 1.7 Available tools 1.8 Implementation of a chemical management system in textile supply chains: example of a tool development 1.9 Tool development 1.10 Conclusion 1.11 Future trends 1.12 Recommendations for further studies References 2 Chemical hazards in textiles 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Hazardous chemicals 2.2.1 Pesticides in cotton cultivation 2.2.2 Dyeing and printing 2.2.3 Sensitizing and allergic dyes 2.2.3.1 Disperse dyes 2.2.3.2 Basic and acid dyes 2.2.3.3 Direct dyes 2.2.3.4 Vat dyes 2.2.3.5 Reactive dyes 2.2.3.6 Azo dyes 2.2.4 Regulated chemicals 2.2.4.1 Alkylphenols 2.2.4.2 Phthalates 2.2.4.3 Brominated and chlorinated flame retardants 2.2.4.4 Organotin compounds 2.2.4.5 Perfluorinated chemicals 2.2.4.6 Chlorobenzenes 2.2.4.7 Chlorinated solvents 2.2.4.8 Chlorophenols 2.2.4.9 Short-chain chlorinated paraffins 2.2.5 Heavy metals: cadmium, lead, mercury, and chromium (VI) 2.2.5.1 Heavy metal content 2.3 Routes of exposure 2.3.1 Health effects 2.3.1.1 Respiratory tract 2.3.1.2 Skin 2.3.1.3 Eyes 2.3.1.4 Central nervous system 2.3.1.5 Liver 2.3.1.6 Kidneys 2.3.1.7 Blood Bone marrow Blood components 2.3.2 Classification of factors influencing toxicity 2.4 Human toxicity 2.4.1 Ecotoxicity 2.4.2 Environmental factors 2.5 Impact of restricted substance list in chemical management 2.5.1 Methodology 2.5.1.1 Structure 2.5.1.2 What is included and what is not 2.6 Regulatory aspects 2.6.1 Textile regulation by different countries 2.7 Hazard control through regulatory norms 2.7.1 Hazard management in textiles 2.8 Hazard control and management 2.8.1 Residual pesticides 2.8.2 Phthalates 2.8.3 Chlorinated phenols 2.8.4 Formaldehyde 2.8.5 Extractable heavy metals 2.8.6 Nickel 2.8.7 Dimethylformamide 2.8.8 Chlorinated organic carriers 2.8.9 Hazard management in textile industry 2.8.10 Finding information about chemical hazards 2.9 Conclusion References 3 Chemical risk assessment in textile and fashion 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Chemical risk analysis 3.2.1 Chemical legislation based on chemical risk analysis 3.2.2 European Union Regulation: Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals 3.2.3 Assessment of risk and controlled use 3.3 Chemical substances in textiles and garments and their release and exposure 3.3.1 Chemicals used in production and finishing of textile and clothing 3.3.1.1 Functional chemicals 3.3.1.2 Auxiliary chemicals 3.3.1.3 Nonintentionally added chemicals 3.3.2 Nature and effect of textile chemicals 3.4 Release of toxic chemicals from textiles 3.4.1 Exposure to chemical substances from textiles and cloths: human exposure 3.4.2 Dermal exposure 3.4.3 Oral exposure 3.4.4 Inhalation exposure 3.4.5 Environmental exposure 3.5 Hazardous chemical in textile products 3.5.1 Irritation and allergy caused by textile chemicals 3.5.2 Exposure to textile dyes 3.5.3 Exposure to textile finishing resins 3.5.4 Respiratory allergy caused by textiles 3.5.5 Carcinogenic effects of textile chemicals 3.5.6 Reproductive toxicity of textile chemicals 3.5.7 Development of antibiotic resistance from antibacterial biocides 3.6 Method of assessment of potential risk of hazardous textile chemicals 3.6.1 Prioritization of chemicals based on relevance of textile products 3.6.2 Prioritization of chemicals based on probable release from textiles 3.6.3 Prioritization of chemicals based on hazardous properties 3.6.4 Prioritization of chemicals based on relevance for textile end-products 3.6.5 Prioritization of chemicals based on probability of release from textiles 3.7 Conclusion References 4 Challenges in dyeing of cellulosics with reactive dyes and practical sustainable feasibilities 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Cellulosic fibers 4.3 Cellulosic fiber consumption 4.4 Chemistry of cellulose 4.5 Chemical processing of cellulosic fibers 4.6 History of reactive dyes 4.7 Common structure of reactive dyes 4.8 Classification of reactive dyes 4.9 Mechanism of reactive dyeing of cellulosics 4.9.1 Type 1. Nucleophilic substitution reaction 4.9.2 Type 2. Nucleophilic addition reaction 4.10 Factors affecting reactive dyeing of cellulosics 4.10.1 Reactivity 4.10.2 Substantivity 4.11 Application techniques of reactive dyes to cellulosic fibers 4.12 Ecological aspects of reactive dyeing 4.12.1 Electrolyte 4.12.2 Alkali 4.12.2.1 Miscellaneous chemicals and auxiliaries 4.12.2.2 Residual dye 4.12.2.3 Water 4.13 Ecological problem due to chemicals, auxiliaries, and water 4.14 Current technologies for improvement 4.14.1 Development in dyes—bifunctional and polyfunctional dyes 4.14.2 Low salt reactive dyes 4.14.3 Use of organic electrolyte 4.14.4 Development of machineries 4.14.5 Modification of cellulosic fiber 4.15 Unconventional reactive dyeing (ultrasound, microwave, foam, plasma, supercritical) 4.15.1 Development in effluent management 4.16 Conclusion References 5 Essentials of chemical management system for textiles 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Chemical management system 5.3 Essential elements of the chemical management system 5.3.1 Procurement system of chemicals 5.3.2 Collection, maintaining, reviewing, and updating material safety data sheets 5.3.3 Inventory system for chemicals 5.3.4 Storage of chemicals 5.3.4.1 Safety measures of storing chemicals 5.3.4.2 Storing incompatible chemicals 5.3.4.3 Using secondary containment 5.3.4.4 Labeling chemical containers 5.3.5 Transportation of chemicals 5.3.6 Chemical handling procedures 5.3.7 Disposal system for chemical waste 5.3.8 Restricted Substances List (RSL) and Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) 5.4 The implementation process of Chemical Management System in textiles 5.5 Tackling challenges on Chemical Management System in textiles 5.6 Conclusion and recommendation References 6 Hazardous, restricted, and manufacturing restricted substances in textiles and clothing supply chain 6.1 Introduction 6.2 Restricted substances 6.3 Importance of restricted substances list (RSL) 6.4 Criteria for a substance to be included in a restricted substances list 6.5 Purpose of brand restricted substances list 6.6 Scope of brand restricted substances lists 6.7 Contents of a restricted substances list document (MBDC, 2012; Rev, 2014) 6.8 Basic terms in restricted substances list document (Das, 2015) 6.9 Major risk areas for restricted substances 6.10 Restricted substances list for Calvin Klein 6.10.1 Azo dyes 6.10.2 Disperse dyes 6.10.3 Other restricted substances 6.10.4 Banned substances and processes 6.11 Introduction to manufacturing restricted substances list (MRSL) 6.12 Difference between manufacturing restricted substances list (MRSL) and restricted substances list (RSL) 6.13 Scope of a manufacturing restricted substances list 6.14 Implementation of a manufacturing restricted substances list in a facility (ZHDC Group, 2015) 6.15 Role of MRSL to ensure RSL compliance of a finished product 6.16 Restricted chemical groups mentioned in brand RSL and MRSL documents 6.17 Important terms and definitions used in a typical MRSL document (ZHDC Group, 2015; ZDHC, 2015) 6.18 Structure of a manufacturing restricted substances list document 6.19 Global legislations on harmful chemicals in textiles 6.20 Practical challenges in managing RSL and MRSL in a textile mill 6.21 Conclusion References 7 Chemical compliance and regulations in textiles and fashion 7.1 Introduction to chemical compliance in textile industry 7.2 Overview of chemicals used in textile industry 7.3 Identification of hazardous chemicals in textiles 7.4 Categorization of hazardous chemicals 7.5 Need for chemical compliance in textile sector 7.5.1 Regulatory standards 7.5.2 Voluntary standards 7.5.2.1 Oeko-Tex STANDARD 100 7.5.2.2 Global Organic Textile Standard Product categories Types of Global Organic Textile Standard label 7.5.2.3 Bluesign 7.5.2.4 Cradle-2-Cradle 7.5.2.5 EU ecolabels 7.6 Compliance requirements 7.6.1 Zero discharge of hazardous chemicals 7.6.1.1 Input focus area 7.6.1.2 Process focus area 7.6.1.3 Output focus area 7.6.1.4 ZDHC MSRL 7.7 Life cycle of chemicals used in textile and fashion industries 7.8 Regulations promoted for hazardous chemicals 7.8.1 REACH 7.8.2 How do REACH function? 7.8.2.1 Registration 7.8.2.2 Evaluation 7.8.2.3 Authorisation 7.8.2.4 Restriction 7.8.2.5 Enforcement 7.8.3 REACH regulation 7.8.3.1 Consolidated version of REACH regulations 7.8.3.2 REACH initial text 7.8.3.3 Amendment not included in consolidated version 7.8.4 Toxic Substance Control Act 7.8.5 Globally harmonized system of classification and labeling of chemicals 7.8.6 Waste, chemical, and clean-up enforcement 7.8.7 Integrated pollution prevention and control 7.8.7.1 Best available technique 7.8.7.2 The industrial emission directives 7.8.8 The biocidal product regulation 7.8.9 General product safety directive 7.9 Compliance monitoring 7.10 Consumer Product Safety Law 7.10.1 Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act 7.11 Chemical regulations in India 7.11.1 Manufacture, Storage and Import of Hazardous Chemical Amendment Rules, 1989 7.11.1.1 Regulations on Schedule 1 hazardous chemicals 7.11.1.2 Regulations on Schedules 2 and 3 hazardous chemicals 7.11.2 Ozone Depleting Substance (R&C) Rules, 2000 7.12 Conclusion 7.13 Future scope and needs References 8 Life cycle assessment and textile chemicals 8.1 Introduction 8.1.1 Textile industry uses large amounts of chemicals and has large emissions 8.1.2 The effects on humans and the environment from textile chemicals 8.1.3 Mitigation measures by authorities, nongovernmental organizations, and industry 8.2 Life cycle assessment in textile chemicals 8.2.1 The holistic perspective of life cycle assessment 8.2.2 Inclusion of chemicals in life cycle inventory and life cycle impact assessment 8.2.3 Life cycle assessment’s ability to reflect the environmental impacts in reality 8.3 Challenges in life cycle assessment studies of textile chemicals 8.3.1 Data about textile chemical inflows and outflows 8.3.2 Data needs for calculating toxic impacts in life cycle assessment 8.3.3 Data about toxic impacts from textile chemicals 8.3.4 Conceptual challenges in toxicity modeling in life cycle assessment 8.4 Case studies 8.4.1 Filling the data gaps in life cycle impact assessment with data from the REACH registration database 8.4.2 Mistra Future Fashion methodology 8.5 Conclusion 8.6 Future trends 8.7 Recommendations for further study References 9 Green chemistry in textile and fashion 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Application of natural dyeing in textile and fashion 9.3 Application of green flame retardants in textile and fashion 9.4 Application of antibacterial finishes in textile and fashion 9.5 Green chemistry approach for ultraviolet protection in textile and fashion 9.6 Aroma finishing of textile and fashion 9.7 Mosquito repellency finish for textile and fashion 9.8 Applications of graphene in textile 9.9 Application of plasma technology in textile and fashion 9.10 Application of green reducing agent for synthesis of nanoparticles 9.11 Green synthesis of nanofibers and nanoparticles for textile finishing 9.12 Future and challenges of green chemistry in textile and fashion 9.13 Conclusion References Index Chemical Management In Textiles And Fashion Helps Readers Understand Current Pressures On The Textile Industry Surrounding The Responsible Management Of Chemicals. The Book Was Written In Response To Industrial Movements Like Greenpeace's Detox Campaign And Zero Discharge Of Hazardous Chemicals, Which Have Both Helped To Motivate Retailers, Manufacturers And Regulatory Bodies On This Issue. Chapters Cover The Entire Supply Chain, Taking Into Account The Use Of Chemicals In Processing, Manufacturing And Recycling Garments. In Addition To Environmental Sustainability, This Valuable Resource Covers All The Main Aspects Of Chemical Management, Including Chemical Risk Assessments, Chemical Management Systems, And Lifecycle Assessment. While Providing A Survey Of The Latest Regulations And Standards On Chemical Management, This Book Also Examines Emerging Green Alternatives To Help Readers Find Innovative Solutions For Sustainable Chemical Processes. Covers All Relevant Regulations And Certifications For Chemical Management In Textiles Provides Technical Details On The Hazardous Chemicals Often Used In The Textile Industries Explores A Range Of Safe Alternatives Addresses Chemical Management Throughout The Textile Supply Chain