Advances in Fashion and Design Research II: Proceedings of the 6th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2023, October 4–6, 2023, Mexico City, Mexico

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on sustainable industrial procedures, ergonomics research and practices, new materials and circular design, as well as issues in marketing, communication, and education. A special emphasis is given to universal and inclusive strategies in design. Gathering the proceedings of the 6th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2023, held on October 4–6, 2023, in Mexico City, Mexico, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education. Chapter 26 is available open access under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License via link.springer.com. Preface Organization Contents Fashion and Communication The Problems of a Visually Impaired User in the Process of Buying Fashion Products 1 Introduction 2 Get Know the Visually Impaired Consumer 2.1 The “Incapacity” 2.2 The “Sensory Vision” 2.3 His Relationship with the Fashion World 2.4 His Consumer Profile 2.5 His Purchasing Process 3 Qualitative Methodology 3.1 The Interviews 3.2 The Content Analysis 4 Results 4.1 The Main Problems in the Purchasing Process 5 Conclusions References A Perspective on the Future of the Fashion and Textile Sector in Portugal with the Use of AI, AR and VR Technological Tools 1 Introduction 2 State of Art 3 Methodologies 4 Results 4.1 Case Studies 4.2 Consumer Questionnaire 5 Conclusions References #1stComposition# - The Artistic Performance as an Integral Part of a Fashion Show 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Framework 2.1 Fashion Show 2.2 Performance 2.3 Multimedia 3 The Physical and Presential Object 4 The Digital Object 5 #1stComposition# Exhibition 6 Conclusion References Fashion, Identities and Cultures Fashion as and Aid to the Body Image of Women with Breast Cancer 1 Introduction 2 Methodological Procedures 2.1 Research Methodology Classification 2.2 Field Contextualization and Research Subjects 3 Analysis of the Results 3.1 Fashion and Clothing Elements as an Aid to the Body Image of Women with Breast Cancer 3.2 Fashion and Clothing Throughout Treatment: a Specialist’s View on the Body Identity of Women with Breast Cancer 4 Final Comments References Fashion, Women’s Everyday Life and Consumption During the Covid-19 Pandemic 1 Introduction 2 COVID-19: The First Pandemic of the 21st Century 3 Self-presentation in “Hybrid” Interactions During the Pandemic 3.1 “Now I Only Live in Pajamas”: Three Families from Rio de Janeiro During the Pandemic 3.2 The Material Culture of Online Classes 3.3 Research-Action: Consumer Research Coordinating Student’s Groups 3.4 If You’re Going to Wear a Mask, Let it be “Me”! 4 Final Considerations References The Importance of Adornments in Insular Traditional Costumes: The Case of Jewellery 1 Introduction 2 Regional Adornments: From Identity to the Piece of Jewellery 3 Final Considerations References Body, Fashion, and Artificial Intelligence: Reflections about Authorship and Style in Creation 1 Introduction 1.1 Artificial Beauty 1.2 Body - Organic, Inorganic 1.3 AI, Body Experience and Style 2 Final Considerations References The Beauty: From Philosophical Thought to Fashion 1 Introduction 2 Beauty According to Platonic to Kantian Philosophy 3 The Reframing of Beauty in the 20th Century in Philosophy and Fashion 4 Final Considerations References Trend Studies and the Operational Concept of Cultural Trend as Change(s): A Semi-systematic Review 1 Introduction 2 Trend as a Direction of Change 3 Perspectives on Defining What is a Trend 4 Final Considerations References Axé Ilê Obá: Garments of Candomblé 1 Axós: Candomblé Attire 2 Candomblé Terreiro Axé Ilê Obá 2.1 Caio Egydio de Souza Aranha (November 25, 1925–February 15, 1985) 2.2 Sylvia Egydio (July 15, 1938 – August 8, 2014) 2.3 Paula Regina Egydio (1989-) 3 Conclusion References The University of the Mountains. A Historical Comparative Analysis to the Academic Attire of Beira Interior 1 Introduction 2 Understanding the Conception of the Attire 2.1 From the Imaginary of Beliefs 2.2 From the Realm of the Popular Beliefs 2.3 To Purist Perspective 3 The Journey of the Academic Attire at UBI 4 Semiotic Reading for a Perspective on the Presence of Local Culture in Attire 5 Results of the Analysis Between Costumes 6 Final Considerations Annex - Interview Transcript with Mr. Lino Torgal, Former Member of the Student Association of the University of Beira Interior - January 30, 2019, 6:00 PM References Fashion and Product Design Redesign of the Uniform of the Municipal Guard of Londrina 1 Introduction 1.1 Outreach Project 2 Proposed Uniforms 2.1 Current Uniform 2.2 The Proposed Uniform 2.3 Combat Shirt: Specifications and Characteristics 2.4 Tactical Pants: Specifications and Characteristics 3 Considerations References The Resilience of Made in Italy Productions: Research Experience at Officina Vanvitelli 1 A Place of Research and Experimentation of New Industrial Visions for Made in Italy 2 Research Between Nature, Sustainability and Digital Technologies 3 Industrial Symbiosis and Biofabrication: Sustainable Materials for New Design Experiments 4 Conclusions References Ergonomics and Materials Technology: The Case of the Uniform of the Cycle Couriers in the City of Recife–Pernambuco/Brazil 1 Introduction 2 Ergonomic and Usability Perspectives 3 Procedures and Tools for Data Collection 4 Results of the Analyses 4.1 Characterization of the Garments that Make up the Uniform of the Cycle Courier 4.2 Problems Related to the Task of the Cycle Courier with Emphasis on the Uniform 5 The Relationship Between Fabric and Ergonomic Problems 6 Final Considerations References The Importance of Comfort in Sport Caps Through Subjective Assessment in Real Weather Conditions 1 Introduction 1.1 Thermos Physiological Comfort 2 Materials and Methods 3 Results 4 Final Considerations References Design Methodologies for Sustainable Products from Mixed Waste Plastics and Foundry Sands 1 Introduction 2 State of the Art 2.1 Mixed Waste Plastics with Foundry Sands 2.2 Existing Products on the Market 3 Materials and Methods 3.1 Design Process 3.2 Concept Definition and Prototype in Polystyrene Foam 4 Results and Discussion 5 Conclusion References Standardization of Classification of Terms for Clothing Pattern Cutting: A Need Detected from Bibliographic Investigation in the Brazilian Context 1 Introduction 2 Development and Methodological Aspects Adopted to this Study 3 Results and Discussions 4 Final Considerations References The ADeQMat Model Facilitates Material Selection to Project the Product in Fashion 1 Introduction 2 The Importance of the Winifred Aldrich Method 3 Methodological Design 4 Exploring Drapeability 5 Configuring Silhouette 6 The ADeQMat Model 7 Final Considerations References Marketing and Consumption The Effect of Religiosity on Purchase Intentions of Fashion Products: Is Faith an Important Factor in Consumer Behaviour? 1 Introduction 2 Methodology 3 Literature Review 3.1 Religiosity as a Moderating Factor in Consumer Behaviour 3.2 Muslim Consumers’ Attitudes Towards Islamic Fashion 3.3 Christian Religiosity in Apparel Consumer Behaviour 3.4 Influence of Religion on Sustainable Consumption 3.5 Effects of Religiosity on Luxury and Status Consumption (SC) 4 Conclusion and Directions for Further Research References The Values Perceived by Fashion Consumers in Luxury Brands 1 Introduction 2 Concept and Value Proposition of Luxury 3 Generation-Based Luxury Brands Consumption: Generation X, Millennials, and Generation Z 4 Luxury Brand Index 5 Conclusion References The Ghanaian Wedding Industry: Review of Factors that Influences the Consumption of a Bridal Gown 1 Introduction 2 Literature Review 2.1 Influence of Psychological Factors in Bridal Consumption 2.2 Influence of Personal Factors in Bridal Consumption 2.3 Influence of Economic Factors in Bridal Consumption 2.4 Influence of Social Factors in Bridal Consumption 2.5 Influence of Cultural Factors in Bridal Consumption 3 Methodology 4 Results 4.1 Descriptive Statistics of the Survey Participants 4.2 Influencing Factors on Bridal Gown Consumption 5 Discussion 6 Conclusion and Recommendation References Teaching and Education Accessibility in Digital Games 1 Introduction 2 Inclusion and Accessibility 3 Microsoft Accessibility Guidelines 4 Planeta ODS Game 5 The Importance of Accessibility in Digital Games 6 Final Considerations References A New Life for Textile Waste – Upcycling in a Fashion Collection 1 Background 2 Goals 3 Design Process 4 Results 5 Conclusion References Co-creating Case Studies to Teach and Learn Fashion at a Business School 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Framework 3 Methodology 4 Findings and Analysis 4.1 Qualitative Discussion 4.2 Quantitative Discussion 5 Conclusions References Learned in Italy. An Approach to Made in Italy Through the Lens of Fashion Education 1 Introduction 2 The Genesis of “Learned in Italy” 3 The Research Hypothesis 4 Studying Fashion in the Veneto Region 5 Conclusions References Sustainable Fashion Product Development: The Importance of Skills in New Materials and Processes in the Academy and Industry Context 1 Introduction 2 Sustainable Fashion Product Development 2.1 Product Life Cycle 2.2 Materials, Manufacturing, and Industry 3 Sustainable Fashion Product Development 3.1 Problem 3.2 Methodology 3.3 Analysis of Results and Discussion 4 Discussion and Conclusions References Women, Fashion Design and Ancestrality: Reflections on the Past and Future Possibilities 1 Contextualization 2 Female Ancestral Knowledge, Fashion Design and Academia 2.1 Feminine Ancestral Knowledge and Fashion Design Education 2.2 Exclusion of Crafts – The Portuguese Case 2.3 Gender in Fashion Design: Global Vision and Portugal Vision 3 Discussing Female Ancestral Knowledge, Fashion Design and Academia 4 Final Thoughts References Knowledge of Traditional Techniques in the University Education of Fashion Design 1 Introduction 2 Cultural Identity 2.1 Knowledge to Create 3 Formation and Dissemination of Lérias Lace 4 Conclusions References Designing for People Inside and Outside the Classroom: Service Design Proposals for Positive Social Inclusion of Refugees 1 Framework 1.1 Proposal Framework 1.2 Conceptual Framework 2 Project Based Teaching Developing Stages 2.1 Pre-Workshop Stage 2.2 First Workshop 2.3 Proposal Development and Debriefing 2.4 Preliminary Proposals, Consolidation and Validation Stages (Workshops 2 and 3) 3 Final Proposals Addressing Refugees Needs 4 Final Remarks References Exploring the Body and Volumes Through Moldable Materials 1 Fashion and Body Volume 2 Redesigning the Body Through Clothing 3 The Teaching-Learning of Clothing and Its Relationship with the Body 3.1 Cutting and Sewing Systems and Manuals 3.2 Studying Volume from Volume: Moldable Materials 4 The Process of a Hybrid Methodology: Plasticine and Textiles 4.1 Conditions and Materials 4.2 From Two-Dimensional to Three-Dimensional Sketching 4.3 Pattern Extracted by Modeling 4.4 Tuning, Cutting, Sewing and Embroidery 4.5 Presentation of Hybrid Method: Moldable Materials and Textiles 5 Conclusions References New Ways of Ageless Fashion: Project Development in Class Context 1 Introduction 2 Ageless Fashion: A Framework 3 Methodologies in Class Context 3.1 Fashion Research Process Phase 3.2 Concept Development Phase 3.3 Concept Development Phase 3.4 Illustrations, Technical Drawing and Materials 4 Discussion and Final Considerations References Shape as Experience: Analysis of the Application of the Expressive Categories Map as a Facilitator Way in the Configuration of Objects and Spaces 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Bases 2.1 About Shape and Syntax 2.2 About Configuring the Experience 2.3 Expressive Categories Map (MEC): How Does It Work? 3 Practical Application: Procedures and Analyses 4 Final Considerations References Sustainability in Fashion and Design Teaching Perspective: Teaching Fashion for Sustainability in Fashion Design Courses 1 Introduction 2 Methodological Procedures 2.1 Data Analysis 3 Discussion of Results 4 Final Considerations References Dyes and Identity as Objectives of Experimentation and Sustainability for Fashion Design 1 Introduction 2 Tradition and Identity 3 Materials and Methods 3.1 Color Fastness Evaluation Using UV-C Light (100–280 nm) 3.2 Color Evaluation by Washing Tests 4 Results 5 Conclusions References Fashion Alive, from the Unique to the Multiple. Design Experiments for Sustainable Fashion 1 Fashion Alive: A Slow Conscious Approach to Fashion Education 2 The Reasons for a Choice 3 The Drawing of the Trousseau as an Anticipated Vision of Inhabiting Body 4 Singularity and Plurality of the Project, Between Desecration of Trousseau and Textile Experimentation 5 Conclusions References Fashion Waste as Vibrant Matter. How Luxury Brands Are Taking Care of It 1 Introduction 2 Pre- and Post-Consumer Waste: From Deadstock to Vibrant Matter 3 LVMH 4 Kering 5 Conclusions References A Reflection on Sustainable Actions in a Plus Size Lingerie Manufacturing Company in São Paulo 1 Introduction 2 Literature Review 3 Methodology 4 Results and Discussion 5 Conclusions References Weaving Diversity with Critical Thinking Approach: Exploring Geopolitics of Fashion of Second-Hand Clothing and Sustainable Literacy 1 Introduction 2 Literature Review 2.1 Popular Geopolitics and Soft Power 2.2 Colonialism/Dependency 3 Methodology 3.1 ANT. Actors and Networks 4 Case 4.1 Second-Hand Clothes in Chile 4.2 300 Hectares of Textile Waste in the Atacama Desert 5 Conclusions References Trajectory of the Fashion, Sustainability and Inclusion Workgroup: Advances and Achievements in Fashion for Sustainability 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Foundation 2.1 The Fashion System 2.2 Announced Ethics Fashion: Five Pieces of Evidence 2.3 Design for Sustainability 3 Methodological Procedures 3.1 Data Analysis and Discussion 4 Final Considerations References Sustainability in the Footwear Sector in Portugal Perceived by Consumer Habits 1 Introduction 2 Methodology 3 Presentation and Discussion of Results 3.1 Sample Characterization 3.2 Consumer Habits and Environmental Concerns 4 Conclusions References Intimacy as a New Value. The Couture Practice of Shape for Slow Fashion 1 Introduction 2 The Project of Intimacy 3 Methodology. Slow Fashion for Active Participation 4 Intimacy and the Practice of the Couturier for Unique Creations 5 Conclusions References Design for Sustainability in the Footwear Sector: Survey on Strategies and Impacts Mitigation 1 Introduction 1.1 Main Impacts and Challenges for Sustainability in the Footwear Sector 1.2 Design for Sustainability Contributions in the Footwear Sector 1.3 Mitigation of Impacts on the Footwear Sector Through Circular and Distributed Economy 2 Research Method 3 Results and Discussion 4 Conclusion References Hemp Fiber: The Textile Material as a Fashion Value 1 Introduction 2 Textile Fibers Market 3 Evolution of Hemp Cultivation 4 Fashion Brand’s Role in Hemp Expansion 4.1 Global Sustainable Brands in the USA 4.2 Local Fashion Brands Going Sustainable 5 Conclusions References Emotional Design and Fashion Assemblage + Waste + Memory = Jewel 1 Art and Jewelley Design: Dialogues and Intersections 2 Memory and Feelings: Poetic Objects 3 The Materials of Everyday Life Gathered in an Assemblage 4 Conclusions References Emotional Design in Fashion: Memories and Experience in a Redesign Project 1 Introduction 2 Emotional Design 2.1 Emotional Measurement Tools 3 Design Thinking and Upcycling 4 Methodology 5 Results, Analysis, and Discussion 5.1 Participants’ Attitudes Towards Clothing Consumption, Disposal and Sustainability Techniques 5.2 Attitudes Towards the Redesign Process: Blockage, Solutions and Interactions 5.3 Redesign Experience, Emotions and Importance for the Future 6 Conclusion References Black Box: Facilitating Tool for Testing, Using Neuroimaging to Support Research in Design and Emotion 1 Introduction 2 Evaluation of Emotional Response, in Interaction with the Object: Self-report vs Brain Mapping 2.1 Self-report – Context 2.2 Brain Mapping – Context 2.3 Self Report vs Brain Mapping 3 Methodologies 3.1 Traditional Assessment Method – Standardized Optimal Conditions for Testing with EEG (Electroencephalogram) 3.2 Black Box – Tool 4 Testing 4.1 Study Case 5 Data Evaluation and Analysis 5.1 Possible Objects to Valuate 6 Relationship of the “Black Box” to the Senses 7 Discussion 8 Conclusion 8.1 Future Perspectives References Tactile and Visiotactile Quality Perceived in Textile Materials of Nightdress from the Confections Pole of the Agreste Region of Pernambuco/Brazil 1 Introduction 2 Theoretical Reference 2.1 The Sleepwear Segment of the Confections Pole of the Agreste Region of Pernambuco/Brazil 2.2 Comfort and Pleasantness of Clothing 2.3 Perception of the Clothed Body and the Influence on Sleep 3 Methodological Trajectory 4 Field Research 4.1 Step 1. Data Collection 4.2 Step 2. Tactile and Visiotactile Evaluation of Fabrics used in Nightdresses 4.3 Step 3 – Perception of Fabrics in the Clothed Body and its Interference with Sleep 5 Results 5.1 Data Collection 5.2 Tactile and Visiotactile Evaluation of Fabrics Used in Nightdresses 5.3 Perception of Fabrics in the Clothed Body and Their Interference with Sleep 6 Conclusions References Author Index